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ITS INHABITANTS. 













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ITS INHABITANTS 


OBSERVATIONS 

MADE DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY, 
IN THE YEARS 1809 AND 1810. 


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/ 


J 

BY W. H. THOMPSON, ESQ. 


'I > 

LONDON: 

PRINTED FOR HENRY COLBURN, 

ENGLISH AND FOREIGN PUBLIC LIBRARY, CONDUIT-STREET, H ANO VER-SQU A RE 
AND SOLD BY GEORGE GOLDIE, EDINBURGH j AND 
JOHN CUMMING, DUBLIN. 


6 


1813. 










\ 



















B. Clarke, Printer, Well-street, Londcn. 









©e&tcattou. 


My greatest pleasure in becoming an Author, is 
the opportunity it affords me of acknowledging the 
obligations I owe to the friendship of one, whose libe¬ 
rality of sentiment, and goodness of heart, I have often 
experienced. 

It is therefore with feelings of the highest respect and 
regard, that I dedicate the following pages to that 
esteemed friend, Lieutenant-Colonel F. Dillon. 

W. II. THOMPSON. 


London, February the 1st, 1813 ". 






































































CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER X. 

Introductory Address to the Reader.—Remarks on the general Pro¬ 
duce of Sicily.—Importance of that Produce to the British 
Umpire . Page 1. 

CHAPTER II. 

Defects of Agriculture.—Possibility of its Improvement.—Fertility 
of the Soil.—Beauty of the Country.—Oppressed State of the Pea¬ 
santry.—Contrast between what Sicily might be and what it is.. 14. 

CHAPTER III. 

Political Slate of the Country during the Author’s Residence there , 
in the Years 1809 and 1810 .—Evident Dissatisfaction of the 
People.—A slight Digression. — Concluding Remarks .30. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Dependence of Malta on Sicily.—Difference between the late 
State of the Country and since the Arrival of the English.—The 
Demand for English Manufactures. — British Merchants .— 
Female Education.—Sicilian Ladies. — Anecdotes.—Reception of 
the English.—Sicilian Language.—Specimen of their Poetry .— 
Advice to Travellers ...44. 


CHAPTER V. 

Royal Family.—The King.—The Queen.—The Hereditary Prince. 
— The PrincessPrince Leopold.—Duke of Orleans.—His Wife. 
—Duchess Dowager of Orleans.—The mode of living of the Royal 
Family.—Description of the Favorita.—Manners of the Queen in 
Public—Palace at Palermo.—Short account of it. — Paintings .— 
Armory. — Observatory.—Desultory Refections .66 






CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER VI. 

Author's Arrival off Girgenti.—Appearance of that City from Sea .— 
Mazzara.—Remarks on it. — Marsalla. — Trapani. — The Coast , 
and appearance of the Country.—Arrival at Palermo. — Descrip¬ 
tion of the Capital .84. 


CHAPTER VII. 

Description of Palermo continued.—The Marino.—Mode of Living. 
— Conversatione.—Description of it .— Various Remarks on the 
State of Society at Palermo.—Sicilian Ladies.—State of the 
Morals.—Cause of Conjugal Infidelity.—Education . 116 . 

CHAPTER VIII. 

San Rosalia. •— Account of that Saint. — Description of the 
Festival in honour of her.—Some account of the Churches at 
Palermo .— Reflections on the mode of Worship .— Convent of 
the Capuchins. — Monreale .134. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Convent of San Martino.—Description of it. — Reflections , Political 
and Descriptive.—The Carnival.—Account of the Amusements. 
—Remarks on the Political changes that have lately taken place 
—Environs of Palermo .— La Bagaria .— II Colie .— Monte 
Pelegrino. —Greek Colony.—Some Remarks as to the Police 1 56. 

CHAPTER X. 

A short Excursion into the Interior of Sicily as far as Caltanizetta .— 
Author's return to Palermo.—Departure from thence for Messina. 
— Observations on the Route .— Termini .— Cefalu .— Brolo .— 
Milazzo , Sfc. — Messina.—Account of that City.--Catania, and 

on of 

that City.—Concluding Observations . 190 . 


Route to it. — Mount /Etna.—Route to Syracuse.—Descripti 









































































































SICILY 


AND 

ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY ADDRESS.-REMARKS ON THE GENERAL 

PRODUCE OF SICILY.-IMPORTANCE OF THAT PRODUCE 

TO THE BRITISH EMPIRE. 


In offering this Book to the public, I am apprehensive 
the question will be—why write, when so many have 
written much better, and on a subject which so many are 
going to write upon ? In answer, I must be permitted to 
say, that long before I ever thought of becoming an 
author, I was accustomed to keep a regular journal of all 
I thought worthy of observation : and as to my present 
motives for writing, they originated in a wish of finding 
for myself some agreeable employment, and in a faint 
hope that the remarks which I have now thrown toge¬ 
ther (if not a source of improvement, which I am 


B 



2 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


scarcely vain enough to imagine) may yet at least serve 
to lead to further investigation; and even as mere 
matter of amusement, will be found to possess some 
novelty, and to fill up a leisure hour, I trust, not dis¬ 
agreeably. 

I confess also to have another motive. The great 
mass of my countrymen have never been out of their 
own country, nor ever will. And I have met with 
so many who conceive that our political conduct 
abroad is always attended with injustice, that, however 
unequal I may be to the task, I hope I shall have credit 
for the motive which induces me to take up the pen—a 
desire of vindicating our national character. 


I wish here to deprecate every idea of having any 
intention of setting up my own judgment decidedly 
against the opinions of those whose age and experience 
may give them a much better title to direct public senti¬ 
ment. I only offer my own opinions to the world; 
and I shall bow to the public decision, whatever it 
may be. 

Neither do I pretend to call my publication, tra¬ 
vels. It is merefy a body of remarks, made at different 
times and periods, and which, in publishing, I have 
endeavoured to arrange under such heads, and in such a 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


3 


manner, as I thought would be most agreeable to my 
readers. 

In the history of the world, there never has been a 
period so pregnant with great events as that of the last 
twenty years ; nor in any part of that period more 
serious changes than may be expected at the present 
moment. In the contest between this country and 
France, the whole civilised world is more or less engaged 
and interested. What the final issue may be cannot be 
foreseen. The only consolation we have is, that it is an 
event dependent on the benevolent will of Almighty 
Providence ; yet still requiring our own active exertion, 
and the best exercise of our judgment. 

The awful state of our own country, in the lavish pro¬ 
fusion of public expenditure; the enormous and increasing 
expence of carrying on the war; the evident disapproba¬ 
tion of the people at the measures pursued by govern¬ 
ment ; with the heavy pressure of the times on all classes 
of society, more particularly on the laborious part of 
mankind ; accompanied by the fact of our resources for 
meeting these increasing difficulties being in a state of daily 
deterioration, render it the duty of government to avail 
itself of every opportunity which presents a prospect of 
lessening the burdens of the people: and in furtherance 
of this, it is the chief object of this book to prove how 


4 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


much England is interested in the welfare of Sicily ; and 
of how much consequence it is that the French should 
not obtain possession of that island. 

I abhor every idea of taking advantage of the misfor¬ 
tunes of the Sicilian Royal Family, to deprive them of 
their last retreat. I feel convinced that such a measure 
will never be pursued by the English government: but 
I do think that every principle of policy and self-defence, 

i 

against a powerful enemy, should make us do all in our 
power to prevent Sicily becoming a province of France. 

Having resided for a considerable time in the capital 
of Sicily, I made it my study to inquire into the produce 
and resources of the country ; at that time, indeed, with¬ 
out any other intention than the wish a man naturally has 
of gaining general information: but the result of my 
inquiries convinced me that Sicily produces, or would 
produce, every article of commerce which Italy formerly 
furnished us with ; and that, if protected by this country, 
she might in time, by proper encouragement from her 
own government, be able to furnish us with great quanti¬ 
ties of grain, in return for our manufactures. 

The most superficial observer, visiting Sicily, cannot 
help exclaiming that nature has done every thing for it— 
art nothing. With little or no cultivation, it produce! 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


5 


not merely the necessaries, but the luxuries of life: 
and in regard to those immediate articles which it ex¬ 
changes, or would exchange, for the produce of other 
countries ; they consist chiefly in oil, shumack, rags, 
wines, sulphur, silk, barilla, and various other articles of 
lesser importance, to which we may add the no less inte¬ 
resting fact, that the eastern parts of the island, under a 
scientific cultivation, might be rendered capable of supply¬ 
ing us with many articles for which at present we are 
obliged to depend upon the Levant trade. In traversing 
the half cultivated regions at the foot of Mount Etna, 
even at the present day, the tourist may observe all kinds 
of fruit, generally considered as the produce of warmer 
climes, succeed and ripen; and that all the luxuries of 
more southern regions might be introduced with success 
is evident, from the fact that the palm tree here produces 
and brings to maturity the date , an article of great request 
as a nutritive food in most parts of the east. 

Nay, the mountainous region of Etna itself affords a 
wide field for improvement, and that on a larger scale 
than might at first be imagined, for it has been already 
proved by analogy, and even here too, by some success¬ 
ful experiments, though on a small scale, that all kinds 
of fruit, whether of the temperate or torrid zones, might 
be raised at progressive altitudes, if the inhabitants were 
more numerous, had a little more of the spirit of industry. 


6 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

and were guided by a more skilful mode of rural economy r 
a circumstance not of slight importance, when we reflect, 
that even twenty years ago, the produce of the Indian fig 
and prickly pear, in the district around Palermo, amounted 
to ten thousand pounds annually. 

It is also a curious botanical fact, that the cinnamon 
and coffee trees have been found wild in the district of 
Etna, together with many other rare aromatic plants* 

No one, on perusing these facts, but must be convinced 
of the great consequence to this country of remaining on 
terms of friendship and alliance with Sicily ; more parti¬ 
cularly when it is considered, that many of the above 
articles can only now be procured in Italy in any 
abundance, whilst, from the preponderance of French 
influence, our ships are shut out from all the Italian ports. 

The demand for oil in this country, of the best sort, is 
very great; that which is considered the best comes 
from the neighbourhood of Naples. That part of Italy 
which formerly belonged to the Venetians produces it 
of a very good quality, and great quantities are also made 
in Spain: but any person who has been in the latter 
country knows how extremely bad it is; nor is there 
any made in Spain for exportation that can be compared 
to that which comes from Italy ; whereas the oil made in 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 7 

Sicily is fully equal to the very best made in Italy, and 
the quantity of it would inevitably increase as the demand 
for it became greater. This alone is an article of great 
importance, which we cannot do without; and from 
whence can we procure it, should the French succeed in 
getting possession of Spain and Portugal ? 

I trust, however, this remark will not be considered as 
a proof that I think such will be the case ; my own per¬ 
sonal observations, and the opinions of many, well informed 
on the subject, convince me that we have every reason to 
be sanguine with respect to the ultimate success of our¬ 
selves and allies. I merely mention it as one of those 
events which may happen, and one, the consequences of 
which ought, if possible, to be guarded against. 

I am aware, that by the permission of the French 
Government, some oil has, within the last few years, been 
procured from Naples, and that there are olives of a very 
fine sort which come from the Levant, and also a small 
quantity of oil; but the distance is much greater, and, I 
believe, the quantity is in no degree equal to our home 
consumption. 

Shumack and barilla are also articles equally necessary 
for our home manufactures, and for which we are in a 
great measure dependant on Spain and Sicily to provide 


8 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

us with. The latter country might be made to produce 
much more than it does, as it will grow on land which is 
incapable of being cultivated for any other purpose. 

Hags may at first sight appear an article of small import¬ 
ance, yet this is far from being the case; for since we 
have been shut out from the continent, it has been found 
very difficult to answer the demands of our paper manu¬ 
factories. Great quantities are sent from Sicily, and I 
cannot more completely prove their importance, than by 
saying that, notwithstanding the distance from this 
country, many ships are almost wholly freighted with 
rags. Formerly, Germany used to supply us with them 
by way of Trieste ; but there, as well as from all the other 
parts of the continent, we are now entirely excluded. In 
regard to wine, this country might procure from Sicily 
every kind it wants. I believe, some few Sicilian wines 
have found their way into England ; but from the great 
distance, and little encouragement and demand for them, 
added to the heavy duties when they arrive here, I do 
not believe they form one of its exports. Nevertheless, 
I have drank in Sicily almost every kind of wine under 
different names, that is procured from other countries. 
This is of no little consequence to us, for should Portugal 
be lost, from whence are we to procure wine. 


Mr. Woodhouse, an English merchant resident at 


I 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS* 9 

Marsala, is, I believe, the only person who makes wine 
fit for the English market: this wine is at present sold 
in London, and is called Marsala after the town where 
it is made: it is in my opinion nearly equal to Sherry, 
and will keep as well. The price for a pipe at Palermo 
was eighty dollars. 

/ 

The Bagaria w r ine made near Palermo might, there is 
little doubt, be made equal to the best Port. I have also 
drank wine in Sicily, exactly similar to Champagne and 
Yin de grave, with many other sorts too numerous to 
specify, which, in my opinion, w r ere fully equal to the 
French whiles. 

That these wines might be greatly increased in quan¬ 
tity is self-evident; and that they are capable of being 
made fit, in all cases, to suit the English market, may 
deserve a little elucidation. Of their real strength and 
body, no other proof is requisite than that they may, 
even in their present unimproved state, be left in casks 
half empty, without losing any of their strength or 
flavour: and even now, in many places, their colour re¬ 
sembles sound Madeira ; whilst their flavour and strength, 
as noticed above, are fully equal to the best Sherry. 

Their capability of improvement rests on the simple 
fact, that though they have fallen considerably of late 

c 


10 . SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

years in general esteem, that has solely arisen from the 
injudicious practices of the farmers, who, borne down by 
the demands made upon them, and unable, and, perhaps 
unwilling, to spare the expence and labour necessary for 
a judicious selection, very improperly mix all the differ¬ 
ent gatherings of the grapes together. It is recorded 
on the best authority, that formerly three crops were 
produced in the same vineyard, all differing in quality, 
and that from the same vines; merely by the mode of 
gathering the ripest fruit, from week to week, during the 
general vintage. Of these, the second was esteemed the 
best; but in each crop a variety was produced, by first 
extracting a portion of the juice, without either working 
it in the tub, or even pressing the grapes, which yielded a 
very light wine ; after which, wine of a different quality 
was obtained by the common mode of pressure. 

Other varieties were produced by allowing the grapes 
to wither in the sun, before they were put in the press, 
from which proceeded a dry, light wine, resembling the 
white Cape; and last of all, almost innumerable varia¬ 
tions in flavour and consistence took place, by mixing 
wine of different ages with the new, in different propor¬ 
tions ; though the only two sorts in the island, really dis¬ 
tinct, are the white Muscado, and a red wine, generally 
known as Calabrese. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 11 

The demand for wine in this country, which is greatly 
increased by the consumption of our navy, is well known ; 
and although I understand there is a sufficient quantity 
now in England for several years, yet still the situation 
' of affairs renders it advisable not to depend for so neces¬ 
sary an article on the uncertain events of war. 

I also think it necessary to remark that our govern¬ 
ment must reduce the heavy duties on the importation of 
Sicilian wines, if they w r ish this country to derive any 
advantage from them ; and the consequent increased con¬ 
sumption would, I conceive, make up any difference 
which such reduction of the duties might occasion in the 
revenue. 

The importance of Sulphur is well known; and though 
we obtain it from other parts of the world, yet the con¬ 
sumption is so great as to make it of considerable conse¬ 
quence as an article of commerce. That which comes 
from Sicily is particularly fine; and from the inquiries I 
made on the subject, I have reason to believe the quantity 
imported might be greatly increased. 

Silk is exported both raw and manufactured, and, with 
proper encouragement, is capable of great improvement. 
Their silks are of as fine a quality as those made in Franee; 
and the silk in the raw state equally as good as that of 


12 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


any other country: but here again, the heavy duties on 
importation preclude their being introduced into this 
country. How far this may or may not be necessary for 
the encouragement of our possessions in India, and our 
manufactures at home, I do not pretend to decide; at the 
same time I think it is worthy the serious consideration of 
our government, whether Sicily, which is of so much 
importance to our Mediterranean trade, and is also our 
ally, does not deserve to meet with some favour and encou¬ 
ragement from England, as to her commerce. 

In hazarding these remarks. I merely give my own 
opinions, the result of observations and inquiries made 
on the spot, and partly in consequence of reflections on 
the subject since. 

There are many other articles that I shall not here 
dwell upon, as it would extend this chapter beyond its 
prescribed limits, but which are not of less consequence 
to us. 

The possibility of making .Sicily provide us with Grain, 
is an affair of so much importance as to demand more at¬ 
tention than I have yet given to the subject. The few ideas 
that occurred to me, when resident there, I shall give in 
another chapter: if, however, this book should meet 
with a favourable reception, I would readily devote any 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


IS 


time to a full and complete investigation of the best 
means of effecting it; and I have reason to believe the 
Sicilians do not want inclination to meet our wishes on 
the subject. 

Perhaps in saying this, I may be undertaking more 
than I am equal to; but where the motive is good, and 
does not originate in any presumption on my part, as to 
my own abilities, but from the wish of being a useful and 
serviceable member of society, I trust a generous public 
will make allowances for any general arguments I may 
make use of. 

✓ 

Every man sees things in a different point of view from 
his neighbour, and the human mind is always inclined to 
favour its own opinions ; but in my own case, I must be 
permitted to say, that I hope I am not self-opinionated, 
or prejudiced in favour of my own judgment on this par¬ 
ticular subject, but shall be happy to be instructed, or 
corrected by those whose superior abilities may give them 
a riidit so to do. 


14 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER II. 

* 

4 « 

DETERIORATED STATE OF AGRICULTURE.-POSSIBILITY OF 

ITS IMPROVEMENT.—FERTILITY OF THE SOIL.—BEAUTY 
OF THE COUNTRY.—OPPRESSED STATE OF THE PEASANTRY. 
— CONTRAST BETWEEN WHAT SICILY MIGHT BE, AND WHAT 
IT IS. 

Every Englishman, travelling in Sicily, must lament 
the badness of its government, and the oppression and 
poverty which its inhabitants labour under. Nature has 
bestowed upon them the finest climate in the world, and 
has given them every production necessary to their 
comfort and happiness. In some parts of Sicily we 
see the most magnificent and awful scenery, and we con¬ 
template a country where the foot of man does not seem 
to have trod since the creation of the world. In others, 
it presents the most beautiful views that imagination can 
conceive, where every thing the eye beholds speaks joy 
and gladness to the heart. 


No person whose observations of nature have been con¬ 
fined solely to England can form any idea of the effect 
the delightful climate of Sicily has upon the feelings of 
an Englishman when escaped from the fogs of his own 
island; nor can one wonder at the difference of manners 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 15 

in such a climate, as it even harmonises the feelings of a 
stranger, and makes him feel more inclined to love and 
assist his fellow-creatures. This is a sentiment I am 
inclined to think most Englishmen must have felt who 
have been in Sicily: and when we see so fine a country 
almost wholly uncultivated, and so amiable a people 
sinking into the worst of vices, for want of an energetic 
government to give that due encouragement to industry 
which is the great promoter of virtue, one cannot help 
pitying the country, and, notwithstanding their faults, 
admiring the many amiable qualities of its inhabitants. 

As I do not pretend to give a general account of the 
state of agriculture in Sicily, I hope I shall be excused 
should my remarks on the subject not appear sufficiently 
extensive. The observations of a private individual, and 
those made for his own information only, cannot be 
expected to be more than general ones: whether I have 
been correct in them, time only can shew. 

From the cultivation of the country immediately 
around Palermo, a stranger would be apt to form a very 
favourable opinion of the industry of its inhabitants, 
though, even in the vicinity of the capital, it does not 
produce one half of what it might be made to do. 
For some miles round Palermo every thing bespeaks 
an attention in the proprietors to improve and cultivate 


16 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

the land: on all sides we perceive fine meadows irrigated 
with care and attention; luxuriant gardens with noble 
palaces ; and in places where nothing else will grow, im¬ 
mense plantations of the prickly pear—a fruit, which in 
the hot climate of Sicily is most grateful to the inhabit¬ 
ants, is profitable to the landlord, and to the poorer sort ol 
people is a necessary, the absence of which would be 
severely felt. Here, amongst many fine estates, that ol 
the Prince Trabeias, on the road to Monreale, struck me 
as being particularly well cultivated. 

That side of the country stretching from Palermo, 
called the Bagaria, is beautifully romantic ; and, geneially 
speaking, well cultivated. It produces grain in great 
abundance, with some pasture; immense quantities of 
grapes; every species of vegetables, except potatoes , while 
the most luxuriant orchards of oranges, lemons, figs, &c. 
bounded by the sea on the left, and by lofty mountains 
on the right, form a coup-d’ceil, which cannot fail of 
striking the spectator; at the same time gratifying his 
heart to behold the industry of man successful. 

Any person satisfied with a superficial view, and not 
inquiring further on the subject, lvould leave Sicily with 
the conviction of its agriculture being attended to, and 
its peasantry happy : but unfortunately this is not the 
case. Nothing can be more oppressive than the system, 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


17 


which the law authorises the great landholders to pursue. 
It is nearly similar to the old feudal system, with all its 
rigours, and slavish restrictions. 

Large principalities, for they cannot merely be deno¬ 
minated estates, are in the hands of individuals ; whilst 
the occupying tenants are almost wholly in the power of 
their landlords. This power and jurisdiction is very ex¬ 
tensive ; the latter almost absolute, as there are few, who, 
on their own estates, have not the power of life and death. 
It is, however, deserving of notice, that this power is an 
usurpation beyond the original grant; for when the Nor¬ 
man conqueror of Sicily, Earl lloger, bestowed such un¬ 
limited powers on his feudal barons for the government 
of their vassals, still he gave them nothing but the pro¬ 
perty and bodies of the Saracen infidels, who had wrested 
the island from the Greek empire, and who were then 
considered by the unlettered Christians as objects not of 

charity, but of contempt and hatred. 

/ 

Under the persecutions which naturally followed, the 
Saracens became extinct, or nearly so, and their lands, 
held under the most abject conditions of vassalage, 
became the property of Christians, whilst, at the same 
time, the barons refused to permit any diminution of 
their paramount authority, or to suffer the new oc¬ 
cupants to hold them under any other terms than those 


D 


18 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

of the original grants ; a procedure, however, by no means 
agreeable to the original intention of Earl Roger, who 
could never have proposed to reduce Christians to the 
same state of abject subjection, in which, for the honour 
of God, according to the absurd ideas of the times, he 
had placed the unfortunate infidels. These privileges 
have, in some measure, been done away with; but, I am 
sorry to say, I believe there is still little chance of a poor 
man obtaining justice if his oppressor is rich. 

Whilst this continues to be the case, the country must 
remain what it now is: every thing is monopolised ; and 
even where the tenant rents for his own use, he is gene¬ 
rally obliged to sell his produce to his landlord, though 
another person would give him a better price for his 
commodity. 

p 

I have certainly met with some exceptions to this rule, 
but by no means often enough to lead me to suppose that 
this system, so oppressive in its nature, is not generally 
pursued by all the great landholders. 

Were these laws all revised, or abolished, and was the 
government to set the example, by giving due encourage¬ 
ment to industry, there is no doubt that, even now, this 
country might furnish all Europe with grain, particularly 
as it is a well-authenticated historical fact, that Sicily, 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 19 

even when it fed many more inhabitants than it does at 
present, was considered, notwithstanding, as the granary 
of the Roman empire. It is truly worthy of observation, 
and proves the astonishing fertility of the soil, that here, 
where every thing is left almost entirely to nature, yet, 
nevertheless, the harvest is more bountiful than in 
any other country. What would it then not be, was it 
cultivated, and attended to, in the same manner as in 
other parts of Europe ? 

It will hardly be conceived, that although in this fer¬ 
tile soil it is only necessary to put the grain into the 
ground to insure plentiful crops, yet still in most of the 
villages there are seldom or never to be found the neces- 

O 

saries of life; meat never to be found, often not bread : 
the worst wine (and that notin abundance), burnt peas, 
and sometimes macaroni , were the only sustenance the 
wretched inhabitants had to live on. 

How lamentable to see so fine an island so totally 
neglected 1 Frequently for twenty miles together I have 
not perceived any appearance of the country being inha¬ 
bited, or cultivated ; and even where it is, the population 
is so small, and the habitations so thinly scattered, as 
sufficiently to prove the oppressed state of its inhabitants. 


To return to the subject of Grain: the laws relative to 



20 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

the exportation of it are so unjust, as to preclude any 
hope of improvement in the agriculture of Sicily, till 
they are either repealed or altered. Grain was, and 
would again be, the great commodity of this island, 
under a good government; but, as I have remarked above, 
the laws, which either preclude its exportation, or oblige 
the proprietor to pay such exorbitant sums for the pri¬ 
vilege of doing it, as to swallow up all the advantages 
and profits, must destroy every effort of industry. Still 
must it be confessed, that, in the present imperfect state 
of agriculture, an immediate abrogation of the existing 
laws, before means were taken to correct the consequent 
evils, would not be advisable. If, indeed, the licences 
for exportation were regulated on the principles of our 
English Corn Laws, and faithfully and judiciously distri¬ 
buted, then might they become, even now, advantageous ; 
but the present mode is so formed and regulated as to 
produce frequently the very evils which it was intended 
to correct. 

There is a tribunal, called the Real Patriinonio, whose 
duty it is to take a survey of the annual crop, and to 
estimate the quantity necessary for home consumption, 
before it issues a single licence for exportation; but 
unfortunately it does not always attend to this rule, as 
the great feudatories can generally procure a licence, 
which they always have it in their power to monopolize. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


21 


and are even enabled to oblige the smaller landed pro¬ 
prietors to dispose of their surplus of corn to them, almost 
at their own price, in consequence of this monopoly. 

When the corn regulations first took place, it was an 
object to facilitate the means of this export trade ; and as 
the number of harbours proper for it is not very extensive, 
particularly in the southern district, public magazines- 
were formed in different places, so as to shorten as much 
as possible the distances of land-carriage: and of such 
importance was the proper management of those depots 
considered to be, that one of the seven great officers of 
state, called II Maestro Portelana, was entrusted with 
the management, and vested with the power of conducting 
the sale of the corn, both at home and abroad. However 
injudicious the continuance of this regulation, at least at 
the present day, accompanied by a tax which has tended 
much to the present ruinous state of agriculture, yet it 
must be acknowledged that one part of the plan might 
be considered worthy of notice in better regulated com¬ 
munities ; for here, whatever corn was brought in, 
previous to its being shipped, a receipt was ahvays given 
for it, which was as negociable as a bill of exchange, for 
the space of one year only, being always cancelled on 
the granting of a licence, and thus preventing a mono- 
poliser from keeping his com until it was unfit for 
human purposes. 


22 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


I have already said, that I have not studied this subject 
sufficiently to hazard giving a decided opinion generally ; 
but it is evident, that no farmer will be at the labour of 
cultivating his ground, if he cannot find a purchaser for 
his produce afterwards : and this would inevitably be the 
case, under present circumstances, was only the fourth 
part of the land in Sicily cultivated. In some few 
instances, I saw appearances of considerable knowledge 
in the distribution of different productions suited to the 
soil, and of taste in the manner of cultivating it ; but 
in general the land appeared to me much neglected. 
The large tracts of barren land in the interior, producing 
nothing, might in some degree be permitted to escape 
animadversion, from the thinness of the population ; but 
in the neighbourhood of the capital, the same neglect is 
still seen, notwithstanding it has the appearance of one 
immense garden, though, when inspected more closely, 
it is easy to perceive that it does not produce half what 
it might. 

I must say in favour of the people, that, with little 
or no encouragement, they only want example, and a 
good government, to become a most industrious race ;— 
ingenious they are already. 

What I have said of the country round Palermo will 
hold good as to the other cities; that is to say, imme- 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


23 


diately in their vicinity appearances of a regular system 
of agriculture may be seen, and provisions found in tole¬ 
rable abundance; but when not near some town, every 
vestige of cultivation ceases; and the beauty of the 


country is evidently owing to the bounty of Providence, 
and not to the industry of man. 


Another great cause operating to prevent the improve¬ 
ment of agriculture is the total want of roads, and con¬ 
sequent impassability of the country. For the first forty 
miles after leaving Palermo, towards the interior, they are 

very good ; but beyond that they are mere tracks, which, 

% 

without a guide well acquainted with the country, it 



be impossible to discern. Mules are the onlv 


animal that can travel over them ; and the quantity of 
grain or merchandise that can be carried to the capital 
by this mode of conveyance must of course be very 
small to what it would be were the roads such as to be 
practicable for carts. It is evident that a facility of 
conveying his produce to market, and, when there, of 
finding a purchaser, is the great incentive to the land- 
occupant, whether he is proprietor or tenant, to cul¬ 
tivate and improve his land. In the small towns, in 
consequence of there being little or no exportation, and 

j 

no buyers for more than is necessary for personal home 
consumption, the farmer would experience a heavy loss. 


24 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


was he to carry to market a greater quantity of produce 
than is wanted for the use of the inhabitants ; and this 
is one reason why so small a portion of the country is 
cultivated, and is also the cause that in every abundant 
harvest they will not even take the trouble of gathering 
in the grain, as there are no purchasers to take off their 
hands an overplus of stock. 

If the Sicilian government would cause roads to be 
formed from all the towns in the interior to the capital, 
and communications (which is not now the case) from 
one town to another, it would inevitably produce a large 
increase to the wealth and commerce of their country: 
one province would then have the means of exchanging 
its productions with another, constant intercourse would 
improve and civilise the peasantry, and the capital 
would become the great mart, whither all their super¬ 
fluities would be carried : nor do I hesitate to affirm, 
that, provided the oppressive laws relative to grain were 
repealed, and the power of the nobility curbed by salu¬ 
tary laws, which would give the poor the secure pos¬ 
session of their little property, and justice, when op¬ 
pressed, then this country would again become the finest 
in the world ; and that, instead of having only an ex¬ 
hausted treasury, with the absence of all resources ; and 
instead of being disliked by its subjects, the government 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


25 


would be powerful and rich; its resources would daily 
increase; it would be loved by its own people, and 
respected by surrounding nations. 

What a contrast to its present state ! Now nothing is 
seen but misery and oppression on all sides, and a 
government sunk into the last stage of weakness—forget- 
ting the numerous advantages it possesses by nature, 
forgetting that although it has lost the better half of its 
kingdom, it still possesses a country that might be made, 
under a patriotic ruler, great and powerful, producing 
within itself almost every thing requisite to its own con¬ 
sumption, and numerous articles of commerce necessary 
to its neighbours ; in exchange for which, it would re¬ 
ceive all the productions of other countries which it 
might require. 

One very particular circumstance which tended much 
to check the spirit of commercial enterprise in Sicily is 
fortunately now removed : this was its dependance upon 
Naples, the resumption of which ought to be strictly 
guarded against, whenever the latter country shall be 
restored to its legitimate government. 

In fact, previous to the late political changes, as it has 
formerly been observed by several intelligent travellers, 
there was scarcely any direct trade between Sicily and 

E 




2G SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

other countries, the greatest part of its imports being 
received through the medium of Neapolitan merchants, 
except when foreign vessels arrived at any of the ports, 
looking for a market. 

* In ah ost all cases, indeed, the articles of importation 
wc. o of absolute luxury, seldom ranking amongst 

the necessities of the lower orders, with the exception of 
lead, iron, and some other heavy commodities, and 
general articles of clothing. Except these there was 
nothing imported that could exercise the ingenuity 
of man, or give employment to his industry, whilst 
the payments were either made in gold and silver, or in 
the raw unmanufactured produce of the soil. It hap¬ 
pened, therefore, that a year of scarcity of Sicilian 
produce was always attended with a diminution of foreign 
importation, arising from the inability of their stock to 
meet the demand, even for the importation of grain , 
which in this fertile country was sometimes necessary. 

Nor was this all—for by this system the invigorating 
impulse of commercial speculation, which provides in 
years of plenty for times of scarcity, was completely 
dormant, the whole of their trade, both foreign and 
domestic, being quite of a passive nature, and carried 
on by the simple barter of their superfluous products for 
foreign luxury, and for such articles as might have been 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


produced by their own industry; for the proportion of 
raw materials manufactured in the country was very 
small, being totally inadequate to home consumption, 
and of course affording no surplus for exportation. 

Under these circumstances, it is not surprising that 
the shipping of Sicily was on a very small scale; and 
even this was confined in its extent from a cause which 
operated powerfully, but, under present circumstances, 
has ceased to exist. This was the constant state of pre¬ 
datory warfare which existed between Sicily and the 
piratical states of the north of Africa, which then con¬ 
fined their small vessels entirely to the coasting trade, 
and obliged them to trust to foreign bottoms sailing 
under a free flag for all their necessary imports, even 
from Naples itself. 

No country, however, can be more advantageously 
placed for becoming a commercial state than Sicily: it 
has, or might have, particularly on the north and west 
sides, the finest harbours in the world ; and its situation 
is such as to make it the emporium of the Mediterranean 
trade: but all these advantages are lost, and will remain 
so, whilst the government continues what it now is; 
whilst it encourages that gross superstition into which 
the lower class of people in Sicily are sunk ; and conti¬ 
nues to pursue its present despotic system of governing. 


28 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

which paralyses every effort of industry, and makes a 
desart of the most delightful country the sun ever shone 
upon. 

I cannot close this chapter without remarking that I 
have not mentioned in the former one half the productions 
of Sicily. To prove this, I will add a few of the other 
numerous articles with which it is capable of supplying us. 

It produces great quantities of cork, and of the finest 
honey : it also produces the finest marbles, vitriol, cinna¬ 
bar, mercury, and nitre; whilst liquorice, oranges, lemons, 
figs, almonds, and grapes, are in the greatest abundance, 
uncommonly fine, and form no small part of its com¬ 
merce. Nor have I the least doubt that it possesses in 
its mountains other minerals of no less value than those I 
have already mentioned : it is more than probable that 
it abounds in all. 

Add to these also, the pearl and coral fishery at Tra¬ 
pani, and I will leave to my reader to decide whether 
such a country does not deserve a good government, and 
whether it is, or is not, in the present state of affairs, of 
consequence to do all in our power to assist it. The 
people have every inclination to love and esteem us : and 
I trust our conduct will continue to be such as to remove 
all jealousy from the minds of their rulers. Good faith 




SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


29 


and integrity are written in the heart of every Englishman, 
and we are too great, and I trust too good a people, to 
lake advantage of the misfortunes of our friends. On 
the contrary, I am convinced, from good authority, that 
we have been more scrupulous in interfering than we 
should have been, had the king still possessed Naples. 
We are fighting for our own liberties, and the liberties of 
our fellow-creatures ; and whether we succeed or not, I 
trust we shall never stain our fair name by injustice to 
those whom we take under our protection. 

At the same time, I am not one of those who would 
tamely allow Sicily to be wrested from us. If the govern¬ 
ment prefer the French alliance to our’s, after all our 
expence in supporting an army in their country, and 
subsidising them, I conceive we have then a full right to 
adopt such measures as prudence, and our own welfare 
as a nation, may demand. 


30 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER III. 

POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY DURING THE AUTHOR’S 
RESIDENCE THERE IN THE YEARS 1S09-10. — EVIDENT 

DISSATISFACTION OF THE SICILIAN PEOPLE, -A SLIGHT 

DIGRESSION, INCLUDING REMARKS. 


The means I possessed of becoming acquainted with 
political affairs were of course rather confined ; still, how¬ 
ever, I had some opportunities, and I endeavoured to gain 
every information on the subject that was in my power. 
I was generally acquainted with every person of any 
consequence; with some few most intimately. I was in 
habits of friendship with many of that class of society 
which in Sicily are not allowed to rank with the nobility; 
I mean private persons ; and from whom I gained consi¬ 
derable information. I had also various opportunities of 
seeing the Royal Family, and I knew many persons who 
held situations of importance in the country. 

Sicily, when I was there, as far as I could learn with the 
above means of information, was divided into four parties. 

The first was very small in numbers, and chiefly com¬ 
posed of men who wished their country to be dependant 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


31 


on no foreign power. The second, by far the most nu¬ 
merous, was formed of those who wished the interference 
of England, to give them the blessings of a free govern¬ 
ment. 

The third consisted of persons who were desirous of 
seeing Sicily a province of France. 

And the fourth, and last, comprised all those who have 
followed the fortunes of the Royal Family; all those 
French who are attached to their interests, many of 
whom have great influence ; and those Sicilians who 
approve or support the present government. 

The Sicilians who are desirous of receiving no foreign 
aid are many of them men who would be happy to see 
their country rank as high as she ought to do: but they 
should consider that wishing alone will not effect this. 
Great efforts must be made by the government, and great 
abuses abolished: and until the example is set by the 
higher classes, the people cannot be expected to make 
those exertions necessary to their becoming great and 
powerful. At the head of this party were men whose 
characterstood high in public estimation; but either their 
minds did not comprehend those measures necessary to be 
pursued, in order to effect their wishes, or they were appre¬ 
hensive of incurring the displeasure of their governments 


32 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

I trust, however, they will not be offended it I inform 
them, that before they can expect others to adopt their 
opinions, they must, by example, prove their sincerity ; 
that if they wish their country should rank as an inde¬ 
pendent kingdom, and find in itself its own resources; if 
they wish it to become prosperous and great, they, as the 
nobility of the realm, and as great landed proprietors, 
must attend to the happiness and the welfare of their pea¬ 
santry ; must reside on their own estates; must shew a 
strict attention to justice; must consult the interests of 
those dependant on them, and in their own conduct shew 
that respect for the laws of their country which would 
give them a right to demand it from others. Let them 
improve the agriculture of their country, and increase the 
number of their tenants by dividing their estates, and by 
bringing into cultivation every acre of land : they will 
then have a right to redress the grievances of their coun¬ 
try ; nor will it then be necessary to look to foreign 
powers for aid and assistance. Every heart, and every 
hand, in Sicily, would be ready, under a good government, 
to defend their country. 

But let the Sicilian nobles recollect, that it is not by 
an inactive life at Palermo that they can become the 
liberators of their country : no—it is by a life of acti¬ 
vity, toil, and danger : and when in their own conduct 
they set an example of virtue and valour ; when they give 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


33 


freedom to their numerous dependants ; then, and then 
only, they will have a right to demand the blessings of 
liberty, under a free government. 

The second party, which I call the English, comprises 
three parts of the population of the country ; not merely 
men of rank and education, who esteem us as a nation, 
and wish their country the same advantages that we our¬ 
selves enjoy, but nearly all the middling classes of society, 
who labour under the disadvantages of a government that 
wants energy to attend to the happiness of its subjects: 
in short, all those who like our laws, and would wish to 
enjoy the benefit of them. And here I must be particularly 
allowed to dwell on the good faith of our own government, 
and endeavour to disprove an assertion so general at home— 
that we are compromising the honour and integrity of our 
country by our conduct towards the Sicilians. 

We originally promised the Royal Family of Naples 
that w r e would not take possession of Sicily for ourselves, 
but hold it in trust for them, and that we would assist 
them with men and money. 

For several years we have supported an army in Sicily, 
at an immense expence : we have paid them four hundred 
thousand pounds per annum, and have honourably ful¬ 
filled every promise we made. Had we wished to take 

F 


34 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


possession of Sieity, no difficulty would have arisen. I 
can declare, from actual observation, and the sentiments 
of others, that we need only to have hoisted the English 
standard at Messina and Malazzo; to have issued procla¬ 
mations, declaring that we would give them our govern¬ 
ment and our laws, and w r ould not interfere on points 
of religion, and they v r ould have joined us on every 
side : nor could the Sicilian government have prevented 
this. The populace at Palermo were equally ready to 
join us, equally attached to us. And wdiy did we not take 
advantage of this ? Why! because we estimated public 
faith above public advantage : and I should hope such 
conduct has had the happy effect of removing all jealousy 
from the mind of a very exalted personage. It will be 
said, that we have at last interfered, and that, in fact, 
we are in possession of the country. This is not exactly 
the case: some interference, indeed, w as become abso¬ 
lutely necessary. Public dissatisfaction at the measures 
of government w r as so great, that a revolution would, in 
all probability, have been the consequence of our remain¬ 
ing inactive; and, even when I was there, the common 
language was—“ You are come into this country to 
protect us. Of what use is your protection, if we cannot 
derive any advantage from it ? We are labouring under 
all the evils of a bad government: any alteration would be 
for the better; and v r e would rather be without you, if 
you will not produce a change in the measures pursued.” 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


35 


What answer can be made to this? Added to which, the 
late banishment of some of the princes, men deservedly 
popular in the country, and who, in the late parliament, 
asserted the rights of the people, produced such general 
indignation, that I am convinced, had we acted differ¬ 
ently, from the line of conduct since adopted, the French 
would now have been in Sicily. And can any one say we 
ought to suffer this, and allow our brave army to be 
driven out of it, after the enormous expence we have been 
at in defending the island for so long a period ? I am 
certain they cannot. It will be seen hereafter that I 
have a much better opinion of the Royal Family than 
many of my countrymen ; but I do not conceive we could 
have acted otherwise than we have done. If the Kin", or 
the Queen (no matter which), were misled by men whom 
they both conceived their friends, but who in reality were 
in the French interest, were we to be equally blind to our 
own interest as well as their’s? I am certain, but for the 
English, the Royal Family would long since have been 
dispossessed of their dominions. 

No country has been worse used, in general, by its 
allies, than England; and I must say it is my own 
opinion that our ministers owe it to their country, not 
to allow all our efforts for the protection of Sicily to be 
thrown away, merely because there are persons whose 


f 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


36 

interest it is to create jealousy and dissatisfaction between 
the two countries. 

The third party comprises those who are wholly and 
entirely in the French interest. It includes a great many 
foreigners, as well as natives, either men who have nothing 
to lose, or those who, being of high rank, but ruined 
fortunes, wish to see Sicily a province of France ; hoping, 
in the ruins of their country, to lay the foundation of their 
own greatness; men, who, lost to every generous senti¬ 
ment that does honour to human nature, can forget 
their country; in short, every thing but themselves; 
whose hearts are solely engrossed by the gratification of 
their own vicious appetites, and who, so long as they can 
live a life of luxury and dissipation, care not what means 
they pursue to enable them to follow it. 

This is not an overcharged picture : such characters 
are, unfortunately, too often met with ; and they are most 
dangerous under a bad government; as it is only then 
such men will be able to bring themselves into notice. 

In the fourth party are comprised the government, and 
all attached to it. This party is more numerous than 
the first and third, but by no means equal to the second. 
At the head of this is the Queen. As I purpose speaking 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 3? 

of the Royal Family in a separate chapter, I will, in 
this place only remark of Her Majesty, that I firmly 
believe she has been greatly traduced ; that her abilities 
are great; and that the King allows a considerable part of 
the affairs of government to be regulated by her. Many 
Neapolitans who accompanied the Royal Family from 
Naples, or have since escaped; many Frenchmen, who 
have made this country their retreat; and all those Sici¬ 
lians who approve the measures pursued, are also in¬ 
cluded in this party. 

I am not one of those inclined to believe that tlie^ 
Queen of Sicily, exalted as she is by rank, being the sister 
of the late Queen of France, and daughter of an Empress 
of Germany, can ever intend to sully her great name 
by giving up Sicily to the French; more particularly 
when it is considered that Buonaparte has a personal 
enmity to her: and I disbelieve the assertion of her ever 
having had such an intention. I am aware that the 
Queen has shewn a jealousy towards the English, and has 
not done that justice to us which our disinterested con¬ 
duct has. merited: but this arises chiefly from bad 
advisers, who influence her mind by relating circum¬ 
stances not founded in fact; and still more by the manner 
in which, some years back, her private character was 
represented in our public prints, making her devoid of 
all regard to morality, and representing her as setting 


38 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


an example, in her own person, ot every thing vicious and 
disgraceful. 

I am inclined to believe that many of those accusations 
against Her Majesty were either much exaggerated, or 
wholly founded in misrepresentation. I have had oppor¬ 
tunities of knowing instances of her goodness, her huma¬ 
nity, and her beneficence,which would do honour to private 
life, still more to one whose exalted station might be 
supposed to have made her forgetful of the wants and 
necessities of others. 

At the same time, the Queen, I trust, will permit me to 
remind her that as we live under a free government, this 
liberty of writing cannot be prevented ; that personal 
animosity will sometimes get the better of regard for fact; 
and that, in a country where the conduct of our own 
royal family is as much canvassed as that of a private 
individual, she cannot be surprised that our press will 
also take the liberty of canvassing that of other sovereigns. 

This public abuse of the Queen’s character was, however, 
productive of an unfortunate effect on her mind, inducing 
her to think that all the English hate her. May I be 
permitted to assure her that such is not the case; that 
there are many Englishmen who feel for her misfortunes, 
and who can make allowances for errors, which all human 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 39 

nature is subject to, and which in her own case have 
much oftener originated from the head than the heart. 
Will Her Majesty permit the author to assure her that 
such are his individual sentiments; and that in writing 
this book he is chiefly influenced by a desire of pro¬ 
moting sincere friendship between the two countries, and 
removing from Her Majesty’s mind those sentiments of 
distrust, which he feels certain that his countrymen do 
not generally merit ? 

Having thus slightly noticed the political state of the 
country, it only remains for me to remark the evident 
dissatisfaction of the people at the conduct pursued by 
their government. That discontent did exist, I believe 
every person who has been in the country will allow; 
and the government were themselves perfectly aware 
of it. Their army they could not place much reliance 
upon. The exact amount of the land forces I am not 
acquainted with ; but I believe it did not exceed twenty 
thousand, and of these the Neapolitan guards, which 
the Royal Family brought with them from Naples, were 
the only troops that could thoroughly be depended 
upon, in their attachment to their interests. The Prince 
Butero, who is of the highest rank in Sicily, was the 
only man whom the militia of the kingdom would have 
at their head. This prince is deservedly popular: all 
hats are down to the ground when he appears in the 


40 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


streets; but unfortunately his excessive corpulency, and 
consequent inactivity, preclude his being of that service 
in redressing the evils of his country that I am inclined 
to believe he otherwise would be ; and I also fear that the 
government are too jealous of him, and that without a 
cause, for he never has taken the least advantage of the 
high favour he stands in with the people. 

In every thing that 1 have hazarded relative to the 
political state of Sicily, I have endeavoured to be wholly 
unbiassed by private feelings, nor have I related more 
than what actually fell under my own observation. I 
heard many circumstances, and many anecdotes, which, 
if mentioned, would have represented the Sicilian govern¬ 
ment as not much to be depended upon as our friends; 

% 

but as they were told me in moments of confidence, and 
were not sufficiently authenticated to make them entirely 
depended upon, I thought it would neither be honour¬ 
able to my friends, or just to a country where I was 
well received, to give publicity to them: and I am 
well convinced that with most of my readers this will 
be considered quite a sufficient excuse for leaving 
them unnoticed. 

I confess I have acquired a considerable degree of. 
regard for the Sicilians: I found them to possess many 
amiable qualities. I went amongst them as a stranger,. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 41 

without any particular recommendation, except that of 
being an Englishman : but this was sufficient. I found 
many of them men possessing the most refined manners, 
endowed by nature with excellent natural abilities ; 
though I must confess their education is not always 
attended to sufficiently. I found the women amiable 
and unaffected ; and, notwithstanding general opinion 
originating from the freedom of manners allowed, many 
of them virtuous, affectionate, and well-informed, their 
education being more attended to than that of the men. 

I do not mean to affirm that this is always the case. 
I well know it is not; but one must not, from particular 
examples of vice and immorality, censure a whole people ; 
and at all events I shall be happy if I can, in any degree, 
remove a very common, though erroneous opinion, that 
the freedom of manners abroad, which an Englishman is 
not accustomed to at home, is the consequence of con¬ 
firmed vicious habits ; and, that, because the customs of a 
country are different from our own, there must be an 
entire absence of all virtuous principles. 

To return from this digression, for which I hope I shall 
be excused. I conceive that any unprejudiced person will 
allow, that in a country so divided in itself, it was abso- 
1 utely necessary to take some steps to secure the safety of our 
own army; and at the same time to protect the Sicilians. 

G 




42 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


It must be remembered, that the party, much the 
most numerous, attached to the English, was composed 
of men who wished well to their country, and who 
were desirous of seeing the numerous abuses, under which 
they laboured, rectified, most of whom would have 
preferred any change to their present state; and that 
if we had not interfered in their favour, they would 
have preferred even a French government to their own. 
This was the general sentiment; which, to English¬ 
men, was not much disguised. If it is also considered 
that the banishment of the princes, who were all men 
attached to England, was a measure equally as dis¬ 
pleasing to the people as it w r as a mark of jealousy 
towards us ; and if we reflect that these men 
depended on our interference to restore them to their 
country and friends ; how r , I ask, could we have acted 
otherwise? Had w^e abandoned these noblemen to their 
fate; had we allowed ourselves to have been thus 
injured in their persons, what dependence could the 
people have placed in us afterwards > 

It was from these circumstances that we were obliged 
to interfere. The whole country was in a state of dis¬ 
satisfaction ; and the sending our troops to the capital 
was a measure of absolute necessity to save the govern¬ 
ment. The Sicilians are not born to be slaves, and if 
they say—“ Assist us in the cause of liberty, and the 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


43 


procuring our country a good constitution, or we will do 
it by ourselves,” are we to be censured in a cause 
of so much importance to our own interests, if, whilst 
we remain firm to our promise of being a friend and 
ally to the King of the Two Sicilies, we at the same 
time, at the united request of a whole people, endeavour 
to redress their grievances, and to assist them in recovering 
their ancient rights and liberties ? And this, not merely for 
our own advantage; for had that been our only object, 
a change would have happened long ago—but because, 
had we acted otherwise, the people would have been 
in a state of anarchy, and the government destroyed. 

I am fully convinced we never shall, unless com¬ 
pelled by the conduct of government, attempt to take 
possession of Sicily for ourselves. Such a mode of pro¬ 
ceeding would be incompatible with the glory of a great 
and generous nation. 

Let the Sicilian government act towards us without 
jealousy or distrust, and there is no doubt that both the 
ruler and his people will long have reason to bless the 
anniversary of that day which brought the English into 
their country. 



44 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER IV. 

DEPENDENCE OP MALTA ON SI CI LY. — DI F FERENCE BETWEEN 
THE LATE STATE OF THE COUNTRY AND SINCE THE 
ARRIVAL OF THE ENGLISH.—THE DEMAND FOR ENGLISH 
MANUFACTURES.-BRITISH M £ RU HANTS.— FEMALE EDU¬ 
CATION.-SICILIAN LADIES. — ANECDOTES.-RECEPTION OF 

THE ENGLISH. — SICILIAN LANGUAGE. —SPECIMENS OF 
THEIR POETRY.—ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS. 


In no way is Sicily of more importance to Great 
Britain than from the dependance in which Malta is 
placed on her for every thing she wants. 1 have been 
told, and have every reason to believe it true, that unless 
our relations with Sicily were amicable, and her govern¬ 
ment friendly to us, we could not retain Malta. These 
are not the times when that island can be in the hands of 
a neutral power. The French, where their interest is 
concerned, pay no respect to friends or foes; and the 
instant Malta should cease to be garrisoned by English 
troops, that instant would the French, either by force or 
bribery, get possession of it; and then farewell to our 
Mediterranean trade for ever. 

From what I saw of Malta, and I visited every part of 
it, the cultivation of the island seemed excellent. It 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


45 


had the appearance of a garden—all that industry could 
do was effected; but I understood, from the inquiries I 
made, that its produce is very inadequate to its con¬ 
sumption ; and this may easily be credited, when w 
consider the population of the country, the great influx 
of strangers, and the amount of our army, which is 
seldom, if ever, less than five thousand men. 

Provisions of different sorts are sometimes procured 
from the coast of Africa ; but the distance is considerable, 
and the supply uncertain. Some things necessary to the 
island are also got from the Levant; but the greatest 
part of the provisions required for the army and navy are 
either procured from Sicily, or sent from this country. 
The possibility of England alone supplying Malta with 
provisions, at such a distance, remains to be proved. The 
expence this would occasion to the country, even if 
practicable, must be evident to every one; and as far as 
my own opinion is founded on observation, I do not 
think it would be practicable to continue it. 

The importance of Malta, as a naval station, is so 
generally known, that I shall not dilate upon it. It is 
only necessary to remark, that whatever nation possesses 
it must command the Mediterranean and Levant trade; 
that this commerce is capable of being improved to the 
highest degree, and would, if attended to, open the road 


46 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

for our manufactures to the most remote parts of the 
Archipelago. 

In regard to the demand for our manufactures in Sicily, 
it is considerable, and will certainly become more so. 
When we first sent troops to the defence of the country, 
I have been informed that there was scarcely a well- 
dressed person to be seen amongst the middling and lower 
classes of society; but I can now declare, from actual 
observation, that I never saw in any country, not even 
in my own, people who were so generally well dressed. 
Notwithstanding the extreme heat of the country, our 
fashion of dress is followed. English cloth is universally 
worn; and a silk coat, except at court, is almost as rare 
as in London; whilst every kind of necessary for their 
domestic establishments is not only on the English model, 
but also procured from England. 

What the exports from this country to Sicily amount 
to I have never inquired; but I am well convinced 
they must be very considerable, and will be still greater, 
whenever the political relations of the two countries are 
finally settled. There are several English merchants 
who reside at Palermo, men, whose liberal and honour¬ 
able mode of acting cannot fail of producing the best 
effects, and tend to the removing that mistaken idea— 
that a merchant does not rank so high in society as a 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


47 


nobleman or gentleman—an idea which holds good least 
of all towards an Englishman, in whose country trade 
is honoured and respected ; and where, taking them as 
a body, there is no class of men, whose principles and 
liberality, honour and humanity, are superior, or even 
equal to their own. They have ever been the support 
of their country, and in the hour of necessity have ever 
been found ready to assist their government, though at 
the risk of their all. In regard to those merchants resi¬ 
dent in Sicily and at Palermo, they keep open house 
for their countrymen, and live on terms of the greatest 
friendship with the inhabitants. 

The Sicilians are still unable to conceive how a merchant 
can rank so high as themselves; but they forget our free 
government—forget that it is education, sense, and 
conduct, which constitutes a gentleman ; and that there 
is no station, however exalted, that the lowest peasant 
in this country, much more an English merchant, may 
not aspire to, if he possesses abilities and good conduct. 

In Sicily, education is so much neglected in the higher 
ranks, they know so little of past events, are so unac¬ 
quainted with the history of their own country, and so 
wholly ignorant of that of others, that though they see 
the advantages of our constitution, and would wish to 
possess the same, yet they neither understand or com- 



i 








48 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

prehend it. This is the reason that an English gentleman 
abroad is immediately dubbed a nobleman. How would 
a Sicilian prince be surprised, if he was told there were 
many men in this country who would not accept a title, 
who are prouder of the name of an English gentleman 

than ail the titles in the world ! He would listen, and 

« 

the politeness of his country would make him assent to 
what was said, but lie would not believe it. 

It is difficult to account for the little attention paid to 
the education of the Sicilians in those acquirements 
which are necessary for every man to be acquainted with, 
whose station in society is such as to render it at all 
probable that he can be of use to his country. How is 
a man to redress or contend against the abuses of an 
absolute government, if he is not acquainted with the 
history, laws, and customs of his country > 

A Sicilian nobleman may generally be considered ac¬ 
complished ; his manners are agreeable, often refined ; 
he possesses talents from nature, which appear in some 
shape or other: for it is rare to meet a Sicilian who does 
not play, or sing, or who cannot boast of some acquire¬ 
ment, which will contribute to the pleasures of a mixed 
society. It is from this circumstance that society abroad 
is so agreeable. In our own country there is frequently, 
even amongst persons of the greatest information, a dead 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 49 

silence, a formality that destroys all confidence. In 
Sicily this is not the case: there there is no formality. 
Every person endeavours to contribute to the amusements 
of themselves and others ; and if a stranger is present, it 
is the general endeavour to make it agreeable to him. 
There are, however, many men in Sicily of truly culti¬ 
vated understandings; and I must say, when this was the 
case, society held out charms not often found in this 
country. 


It is much to be regretted that the improvement of 


their talents, which Nature has bestowed with so lavish a 
hand, is not more attended to. In some respects the 
Sicilians appear to understand education better than the 
English. Latin, which in England is seldom or ever 
attained to any degree of perfection, is here taught so as 
to be learnt with facility—almost all the priests can 
speak it as well as their own language; whereas, in 
England most boys pass the best years of their lives in en¬ 
deavouring to acquire what at last they know nothing of. 

The education of the women is much superior to that 
of the men; indeed, I think, excellent; and notwith¬ 
standing I know how contrary it is to general opinion, I 
think it infinitely better than our own. 


, . a-'*' 


• •* 

far- 7- - 



In advancing this, I must be understood to mean as 


H 




50 SICILY and its inhabitants. 

to its effects, not its consequences. I am well aware that 
a perfectly virtuous woman, ignorant even of the name of 
vice, is more liable to be led into error than one who by 
education has been taught to be on her guard against it. 
Innocent herself, she thinks others equally so; and such 
a character will not do to pass through the world—more 
shame to us that it will not! 

' In Sicily, girls are placed at a very early age for edu¬ 
cation in convents, which differ in expence according to 
the rank of the person admitted, but which are all the 
same in principle. Here every thing that surrounds a 
young person is good and virtuous : she has no inter¬ 
course with the world, at least she is excluded from 
the vicious part of it; nor can any one have access to her 
excepting her own family. Her whole life is of such a 
nature as to make her virtuous : it is scarcely possible an 
improper sentiment can enter her mind. 

Early rising, and early retirement to rest, give her 
health and cheerfulness: the duties belonjnn<£ to the 
Catholic religion give her habits of temperance and for¬ 
bearance: her time is constantly employed, and her 
amusements are innocent. She is not allowed to visit 
her friends more than once or twice a year; and even 
then she must r. ceive permission. At these times she is 
always with her mother; if not, with some governess, who 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


51 


never leaves her unguarded. She is never left alone in 
mixed societies, nor early introduced into them ; and she is 
taught every accomplishment, if not to perfection, at least 
so as to render her an intelligent, amiable, and agreeable 
companion. 

I cannot imagine any thing more virtuous, more inno¬ 
cent, than a young woman who has been thus educated, 
leaving her convent to return to her friends. 

I have no doubt that my readers will think my descrip¬ 
tion erroneous, because they have been accustomed to 
hear exaggerated pictures of Italian morals, and because 
the manners of the married women do not coincide with 
this account; but I can explain this in a way which I 
hope will prove satisfactory. 

I have already remarked that the women are very supe¬ 
rior to the men in information, owing to their education 
being better attended to: they are equally so in regard 
to morals. 

The moment a Sicilian lady is arrived at that age 
when she can be married, her family (if such is their 
intention) look out for some suitable match in rank and 
fortune: the parents consult, and the parties themselves 





( 


52 SICILY AND ITST INHABITANTS. 

are married, before they have had time to become 
acquainted with each other. 

If both parties were equally amiable, equally virtuous, 
this might not be of much consequence: love and esteem, 
in that case, might follow after marriage; but where 
virtue and vice meet together, the consequence is ine¬ 
vitable. The pursuits of the husband are incompatible 
with those of the wife: he takes no pains to gain her 
affections, or study her disposition: she becomes dis¬ 
gusted, and finding some other person, of more refined 
manners, who treats her with kindness,, delicacy, and 
affection, she chooses him for her lover, and thinks her¬ 
self excused by the example of others, and the conduct of 
her husband: and I must think, if conjugal infidelity is ever 
capable of an excuse, it is under such circumstances. 

As to the idea that women in Sicily have no regard 
for virtue or morality, it is a mistaken, illiberal opi¬ 
nion : I am convinced those who possess - it can never 
have associated with the virtuous and respectable part of 
society, but must constantly have lived with the lowest 
of the low. For myself, in my intercourse through 
life, I have rarely, if ever, met with a woman entirely 
divested of virtuous principles in any country; even if 
she was, still she possessed regret at being so.. 




SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS, 53 

In regard to the Sicilian ladies, I will mention what 
happened to myself. A few days after my arrival at 
Palermo, I was invited, in common with other English¬ 
men, to a ball at our minister’s (Lord Amherst), to cele¬ 
brate the King’s birth-day. As a stranger, I naturally 
asked questions, and inquired of those around me the 
names of the persons I saw. How was I astonished at the 
description given of them! There was scarcely one that 
was not represented as infamous. 

For some little time I believed this to be the case, till 
I had time to make my own observations, by becoming, 
intimately acquainted with many of them : I then found 
how erroneous, how unjust was the description. They 
possess openness of manners, candour, frankness ; and the 
habits of their country allow great freedom in conversa¬ 
tion, If they like the manners and society of a stranger, 
they will walk with him, and permit him constantly to 
be with them; but whoever, presuming upon this, might 
venture to take any liberties with them, would find that 
there is virtue in Sicily as well as in other countries. 

In no country is it more difficult to form an attachment 
than Sicily; I mean a desirable one. That there is a 
great deal of vice in Sicily is a melancholy truth; and, 
from the bad example of the higher ranks, it is very 


54 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


general amongst the lower classes of society; but still 
there are many instances of virtue ; and this virtue is 
respected. 

It must also be allowed that the sublimer virtues, though 
at present in some degree dormant in the Sicilian cha¬ 
racter, are not by any means extinct, requiring only 
time and opportunity to bring them to full perfection. 
There are two anecdotes illustrative of this, which, as 
they are well authenticated, must not be considered as 
mere romances, but as facts delineative of the national 
character. 

* 

It has generally been found that the real passion of 
love is one of the strongest incentives to virtue, and to all 
those finer feelings, which, by raising the beloved object 
above all the common pleasures of life, teach philosophy 
and magnanimity to a mind the most uninformed—a 
truth most strongly exemplified in the conduct of a rustic 
youth, who was, by birth, the eldest son of a nobleman, 
who, with the title of Prince, and a large fortune, ranked 
amongst the first families of the city of Palermo. 

This nobleman was in early life attached to a young 
lady, his equal in birth and fortune : the consequence of 
this affection was, that honour , as well as love, bound 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


55 


him to marry her; but not soon enough to save her 
honour and reputation. As a son was born a very short 
time after their union, pride and shame gained the ascen¬ 
dancy in their breasts over the feelings of parental affec¬ 
tion : in order, therefore, to guard against suspicion, and to 
prevent the possibility of scandal, it was determined that 
her illness should remain a secret, and the infant be placed 
in a retire situation with a peasant’s family, on an estate 
in a distant part of the island, where, unconscious of his 
birth and rank in life, he might be brought up in a safe 
obscurity ; his parents trusting to time for other pledges 
of matrimonial affection, and for an heir to their estates. 
The plan of concealment was so well arranged, that the 
secret remained undiscovered, until the unhappy mother, 
suffering under all the pangs of an accusing conscience, 
disclosed it on her death-bed. Her confessor, as an act 
of justice, refused her absolution, until she had made 
her avowal public to the family, and had her son 
recalled from his retirement, and acknowledged as the 
legal heir. 

This immediately took place; but notwithstanding the 
change of situation, and the brilliant prospect before 
him, the rustic prince displayed little joy at his elevation 
in society ; assuring his new friends he would not accept 
of rank and fortune, unless he was permitted to share 


56 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

them with a lovely, though humble peasant’s daughter, 
to whom he had long pledged his affections. 

This, however, was a request which his family would 
not grant: upon which this virtuous and magnanimous 
youth immediately resigned his princely claims in favour 
of his brother ; preferring to seek for happiness with a 
virtuous and beloved rustic, in a situation of industrious 
mediocrity, to the luxuries of elevated life, with a heart 
torn with contending passions. This is an instance of 
the union of magnanimity with virtue: but another may 
be mentioned, where the former was as intimately con¬ 
nected with vice. 

In the early part of the last century, when robbery was 
a kind of trade in Sicily, and when, from the bad state 
of their police, large armed bands carried on a system of 
predatory warfare over nearly the whole of the island, 
one of these detachments was commanded by a man 
worthy of a better fortune, of the name of Testalonga. 
The father of the lieutenant of this chief fell into the 
hands of the civil power ; and soon after, the lieutenant 
himself, by name Romano, also became a prisoner. Not¬ 
withstanding the endeavours of the latter to conceal him¬ 
self, it was soon known tha the was Testalonga’s lieu¬ 
tenant, when the magistrates applied to his father, offering 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. *r 

him his liberty, if he would prevail on his son to betray 
his chief into the hands of justice. 

As soon as the old man related the circumstance to his 
son, the struggle between filial affection, and the honour 
due to the solemn pledges of friendship, became violent 

in the breast of Romano; but the latter feeling became 

\ 

most powerful, from the warm solicitations of the father, 
who conjured his son sooner to see him die, than to pre¬ 
serve his life by treachery. 

Shortly after, Testalonga himself was taken prisoner : 
yet this gallant, though unfortunate man, whilst writhing 
under the most excruciating tortures, refused to betray 
the companions of his daring though unlawful exploits, 
and perished, the victim of his own crimes, indeed, but 
setting an example of heroic constancy not unworthy of 
imitation. 

♦ 

To return, however, to more pleasing subjects: it 
must be admitted that the ladies abroad labour under 
the greatest disadvantages. There are an infamous set 
of men, who pretend to bring messages from women 
who assume names of the highest rank. These men 
accost foreigners, and the stranger goes, and is intro¬ 
duced to a lady, who calls herself a princess: and when 
this person leaves the country, he quits it with the 


58 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

conviction that tiie wife of a nobleman has been unfaith¬ 
ful, This is an infamous traffic. T have known many 
instances of it; and X believe it is practised in my own 
country; for I have met with foreigners who boasted of 
favours from my countrywomen, which I am well con¬ 
vinced they never received. 

X would not have it supposed that I think morality in 
Sicily is superior, or even equal, to that in England-—it is 
not the case. X firmly believe there is more virtue in 
my own country than in any other; nor do I think any 
part of the world can boast of women more amiable 
before marriage, or more virtuous afterwards, or that 
better fulfil all the relative duties of a wife and mother. 
But in doing this justice to the merits of my own coun¬ 
trywomen, I am certain they will not be displeased at 
my being the champion of their sex elsewhere, particu¬ 
larly in Sicily, where it has long been the fashion to say 
that no virtue exists. 

The Sicilian language is very different from that which is 
spoke in Italy: it is a mixture of almost every other; 
and is, I think, difficult to understand. I have given a 
specimen of it in the Anacreontic style, which it is parti¬ 
cularly adapted for: it was written when I was at Pa¬ 
lermo, upon the opera dancer, Campilli. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


59 


In Locli 

Di la Siga Giuvannina Campilli 
Prima Ballarina 
Di lu Riali Tiatru Carulina 
Anacreontica. 

Vanta, o Trinacria, 

La tua Campilli, 

Un novu geniu, 

J Ntra milli, e milli, 

Mentre li smanii 

Balia d’Armida. 

E cui nun strepita? 

E cui nun grida ? 

Ucchiuzzi languidi, 

Si la guardati, 

’Ntra un focu elettricu 
Vi samuzati. 

E lasua grazia 

Arriva a tantu 
Capaci a smoviri 
E risu e chiantu. 

Vicina a perdiri 
L’amatu beni 
Cadi in deliquire, 

E quasi sveni. 


Go 


SICII/Y AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


Poi s’ alza, e smania, 

Poi si cumponi, 

Chi sii sensibili 
St’espressioni ! 

A li soi lagrimi 

Sciogghi lu frenu, 
Scappannu l’idolu 
Di lu so senu 

/ 

E mentri palpita, 

Mentri delira, 
Mustra implacabili 
Vinnita; ed ira. 

'Ntra lu so tragica 
Putenti maga : 

Cea si rispigghianu, 
Quannu ce’e chiaga, 

Li duci, e teneri 
Pirduti amati, 
Ilinnennu ainabili 
Sdegnu, e fururi. 

Rapiti in estasi 
Milli amurini 
In idda ammiranu 
Ddi vezzi fini. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


Chi un cori spezzanu 
Cu tali arduri, 
Cornu l’imagini 
D’un veru amuri. 

A st’arti comica 
Natura cedi: 

Cornu s’intriccianu 
Ssi manu, e pedi! 

E Tempu, e musica, 

E lu so visu. 

E s'b di marmura 
L’orau, 6 supprisu. 

Si st'incantissimi 
Facia Campilli 
Nun eci rigevanu 
Rinaldi, e Achilli. 

Lu cchiu gueriggeru 
Chi mai si duna, 
L’armi dep.osita, 

E s’abbannuna. 

Cupidu,e Veneri 
S’innamuraru 
l)i stu carattari, 
Ch’un avi paru. 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


Anchi la reggia 

DI CARULINA 
Vanta cu applausi 
Sta Ballarina. 

Cei tocca l’anima 
L’affetti movi, 

E d’un hngelica 
Donna fa provi. 

Oh comu s’agita 
La fantasia 1 
Quanta si celebri! 
Campilli mia! 

Cui podesciviri 
Li toi talenti! 

Ai tu di Palladi 
Figura, e menti. 

Tu di Tersicori, 

L’unica figghia, 

Chi cchiu d’ogui autra 
Cci rassumigghia. 

In tia s’uniscinu 

Incegnu, ed arti, 

Tu si d’Apollini 
Un geniu apparti. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


Spieghi, e faciliti, 

A I’inesperti 
Ninfi, chi balianu, 

Li toi cuncerti, 

* Andruni Siculu 
Puru a tia cedi 
Tu pensi—e speculi 
Cchiu d’Archimedi. 

Mustri la favula 
E spargi sciuri, 

Batti la Storia 
E fai fururi, 

Si must briliance 

Mmenzu a Campilli, 
Unni triunfanu 
Li grazi a milli, 

Unni risedenu 
Li preggi rari, 

Chi nun ce 6 geniu, 
Ch’un t'avi amari. 


In attistatu di Stiron 
Salfftturl Radicella, 


* Natq in Catania Inyentore del BaUa 


64 Sicily and its inhabitants. 

The difficulty of comprehending the Sicilian language 
is, however, of no consequence to a stranger, as there 
are very few persons of education who cannot speak 
Italian. Most persons can speak French; and within 
the last few years the ladies have very generally learnt 
English: I knew several persons who spoke it extremely 
well. This renders Palermo an agreeable residence, as 
an Englishman is always certain of finding persons who 
understand his own language, even if he does not choose 
to take the trouble of learning their’s. 

The reception an Englishman meets with at Palermo 
cannot fail of being flattering to him ; and notwith¬ 
standing what our enemies say, both at home and abroad, 
we are still better received, more respected, and more 
trusted, than the people of any other nation. 

I must say that foreign manners are truly flattering to 
our nationel pride, and in no country more so than in 
Sicily. As a proof of this, I will just mention one 
circumstance, which is, that at their conversationes, 
which I shall have occasion to mention hereafter, they 
never refuse credit to an Englishman, even when they 
will refuse it to a Sicilian. I only mention this as an 
occurrence equally creditable to both nations, as a mark 
of their liberality and of our honour, as I do not believe 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


65 


there has ever been a single instance of this liberty being 
abused. 

There is, in my opinion, much more congeniality of 
sentiment between the English and Sicilians than with 
any other foreigners. The latter appear to me quite a 
different race of men from the Italians. In no country 
have I seen handsomer men than in Sicily : they are by 
no means generally of sallow complexion, and their 
limbs are finely formed. In their manners and conver¬ 
sation they are extremely animated; and though I have 
already remarked that their education is much neglected, 
yet their many agreeable qualities often make one forget 
their want of solid information. 

As I shall speak of the manners of the inhabitants of 
Palermo elsewhere, I will conclude by saying that every 
man who travels should divest himself of prejudice, and 
be ready to receive favourable impressions of the country 
lie is going to ; and if he wishes to form a just opinion 
of its inhabitants, he must reside witli them some time, 
associate with them in the interior of their own families, 
and not trust to his countrymen for all the information 
he wishes to acquire, which is the case with many, who 
never form a single intimacy or friendship, and then 
return home, saying there is neither hospitality nor virtue 
to be found abroad. 

K 


/ 


66 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER V. 

ROYAL FAMILY.—THE KING.*—THE QUEEN.—THE HEREDI¬ 
TARY PRINCE.-THE PRINCESS.-PRINCE LEOPOLD.- 

DUKE OF ORLEANS.—HIS WIFE.—THE DUCHESS DOWAGER 
OF ORLEANS.—MODE OF LIVING OF THE ROYAL FAMILY. 

— DESCRIPTION OF THE FAVORITA.-MANNERS OF THE 

QUEEN IN PUBLIC.-PALACE AT PALERMO.-PAINTINGS. 

-ARMORY.—OBSERVATORY.— CONCLUDING REFLECTIONS. 

In delineating the characters of the Royal Family, I 
must again repeat, that I am not guided by any thing 

but my own opinions and observations; and that I de- 

* 

scribe things as they appeared to myself, not to others. 


The Royal Family are strongly united amongst them¬ 
selves, and are said to have much affection for each 
other. 

The King has generally been represented as a very 
weak man, but I have every reason to believe this is not 
the case. There is a wide difference between great abili- 
ties and a total want of them ; and the medium we must 
allow to him. Although the King has generally left the 
management of affairs almost entirely to the Queen, still 
he never allowed his prerogative to be encroached upon; 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 67 

and no man knew better how to command, when neces¬ 
sary to do so. I can speak from actual observation, 
that I never saw greater respect shewn to any person 
than was always paid to the King by the Queen: he has 
been reproached, indeed, for being fond of trifling 
amusements, when he ought to have been attending to 
state-affairs. How far this may be true, I' will not 
decide: he certainly is extremely partial to hunting, 
shooting, and fishing; but I do not see why these pur¬ 
suits are incompatible with his duty as a sovereign, or 
that they can, with any justice, be imputed to him as 
faults. 

The King’s personal appearance is, I think, much in 
his favour: he appears considerably younger than he 
really is, owing to the regularity and temperance of his 
life. His countenance, marked by expressive features, 
has much benignity in it; and if he was a private person, 
would, I am convinced, inspire confidence and regard. 

As to the ability he may actually possess, I will leave 
those to decide who have had opportunities of knowing 
him intimately: I can only say, his countenance does 
not denote any want of it. 

His Majesty is very regular in his way of living, dines 
early, and takes a great deal of exercise, though latterly 


68 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


bis ill-health has in some measure deprived him of the 
pleasure of field-sports, iie chiefly resides at Palermo, 
though he often visits the Favorita, situated at a little 
distance from the capital: he is fond of society ; and, I 
believe, seldom passes an evening without playing at 
cards. In short, all his amusements are harmless and 
innocent, easily gratified, and that without injury to 
others. That the King has not paid that attention to 
the welfare of his subjects, and the improvement of the 
country he reigns over, which he might have done, is 
certain ; but where will be found an unlimited monarch 
who w ill do away abuses, and propose reforms, at the 
expence of his authority ? It is these very abuses that 
render him absolute ; and I do not think we have any 
right to censure the King of Sicily for a mode of conduct 
which has so long been pursued by almost every crowned 
head in Europe. 

In describing the Queen, I am indeed conscious of under¬ 
taking a very difficult task. We feel interested for Her Ma¬ 
jesty in many points of view ; but particularly as the daugh¬ 
ter of the famous Maria Theresa, Empress of Germany, 
and as being the sister of the late Queen of France, the un¬ 
fortunate Marie Antoinette. She was not originally in¬ 
tended for the King of Sicily : it was another sister, who 
died of the small-pox. The Queen of Sicily was then 
only fifteen; and it is well known that she did every 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 69 

thing in her power to avoid the proposed marriage, but 
in vain. This repugnance is not supposed to have ori¬ 
ginated from any other motive than the melancholy fate 
of her sister, which she considered as an ill omen. She 
must, when young, have been handsome ; but now her 
countenance bespeaks an acquaintance with misfortune, 
which has dimmed the lustre of her eyes: her hand and 
arm are still remarkably beautiful: in height, she is of 
the proper female standard, rather inclining, latterly, to 
en bon point. 

Nothing can be more fascinatino’ than her manners 

c5 O 

when she chooses : I have had opportunities of seeing her 
in large companies, when she contrived to please all. It 
may naturally be supposed that habit enables her to dis¬ 
guise her real sentiments; but this is ever the case at 
courts : they are not the places to find sincerity. 

No one has been more severely censured than the 
Queen of Sicily ; and in many instances I think unjustly. 
She has through life been a most kind, affectionate mo¬ 
ther, and thoroughly attached to her children; and 
whatever her conduct may have been as a wife, she at 
least pays every outward mark of respect and attention 
to her husband. I do not think it is fair to deprive Her 
Majesty of every claim to virtue, because illnatured 


70 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

anecdotes of her have been circulated ; many of which, 
perhaps, are greatly exaggerated. 

The Queen is generous in the extreme; nay, she even 
gives away what is absolutely necessary for her own sup¬ 
port: she leads a retired life, pays great attention to 
public affairs, and has been strongly accused and sus¬ 
pected of attachment to the French cause: but I do not 
believe this. There certainly was a constant intercourse 
between Palermo and Naples : couriers were often arriv¬ 
ing ; and Her Majesty was greatly to blame in not making 
our minister acquainted with their contents, as it had a 
suspicious appearance ; but from all I could learn on the 
subject, this correspondence was merely kept up with 
her partisans at Naples, men who were once her sub¬ 
jects, and might, from attachment, be inclined to favour 
her interests. 

The Queen certainly possesses one great fault: it is an 
extreme regard for the Neapolitans, and love for Naples, 
to which she makes every thing secondary. It is not to 
be wondered at, if Her Majesty should be desirous and 
inclined to make great sacrifices to recover so fine a 
country ; but I cannot think that the way to effect this 
is to neglect that which remains to her. On the con¬ 
trary, it is evident the more attention she pays to the 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 7i 

interests of Sicily, the greater efforts she will be able to 
make to recover Naples. 

The Queen has been accused of great injustice, and 
great inhumanity; and I have heard many anecdotes to 
prove it. To counterbalance them, I can only say that 
I know many instances where the Queen has shewn great 
attachment to her friends, and disinterested generosity 
to those who wanted her assistance. I am not equal to 
the vindicating her character from the imputation of 
severity and occasional injustice, because I am not suf¬ 
ficiently acquainted with all the circumstances of her 
life ; but from what I do know, I think it more than 
probable her faults have been greatly exaggerated. At 
all events, it is unfortunate we have been such severe 
judges; for it has prejudiced her against Englishmen; 
she thinks we all dislike her; and I know an instance 
where she expressed this sentiment openly. 

Some allowances must, I think, be made for her. 
Born in such an exalted station, accustomed to command 
from infancy, possessing from nature great talents, and 
these cultivated by the best education, it is not matter 
of surprise that she sometimes has erred ; but it is not 
just to divest her of every good quality, because she 
has failed in some. I know many anecdotes both for 
and against her; but to relate them would oblige me to 


72 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


speak of persons who are now living in the country, 
might involve them in difficulties in the one instance, 
and in the other lead me into a disputation with persons 
who think differently, both of which I wish to avoid. 

I am aware there are many people who have possessed 
means of estimating the Queen's character better than 
myself; I therefore leave out all positive assertions, 
contenting myself with relating the result of my own 
personal observations and opinions. At the same time, 
I am almost certain that any one who has had the same 
opportunity of seeing her, and who allowed himself to 
be unprejudiced by report, would form the same opinion 
as myself; and whatever the world may say, I shall 
always think, though Her Majesty may have erred, may 
have acted with severity, perhaps with apparent injustice, 
yet that the many amiable qualities, I know she possesses, 
tend in my opinion, and I hope will in that of many others, 
to counterbalance the unauthenticated anecdotes related of 
her by her enemies. We are all liable to commit error ; 
and we should endeavour to judge others with the same 
impartiality with which we would wish to be judged. I 
have endeavoured to act thus, and am only sorry I cannot 
do Her Majesty more complete justice, by being more 
intimately acquainted with her character and actions. 

The hereditary Prince, in person and appearance, is 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 73 

like his father, only much fatter; and in his countenance 
he strongly resembles his mother. He does not appear 
much in public, at least he did not when I was in Sicily ; 
but from what I saw of him, he appeared to be extremely 
pleasing and open in his manners. 

His wife, the hereditary Princess, is a daughter of the 
King of Spain: she is a very charming woman; and I 
never saw any countenance which more strongly marked 
goodness of heart. I have seen some handsomer, but 
none which the eye felt more pleasure in looking at. 
Her person, without being very large, has that sort of en 
Ion point which, I think, adds to female beauty. She has 
several children, and is a most excellent mother. 

Prince Leopold is extremely like his father: he has 
been variously spoken of. He had the command of the 
Sicilian part of the expedition that was sent to Naples 
in 1809 ; an expedition that offended the Queen, because 
we did not take Naples; the reason of which is supposed 
to have been, that as it was found impossible to keep 
possession of it, to plunder it would only have been in¬ 
volving the innocent with the guilty; a notion which, 
in my opinion, reflects honour on our commanders, and 
ought not to have irritated Her Majesty. It had that 
effect, however, and she was as much displeased at the 


74 srCILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

time with Prince Leopold as she was with us: he is, 
notwithstanding, a great favourite with her. This prince 
is not married. 

In the year of my residence at Palermo, the Duke of 
Orleans was married to a daughter of the King of Sicily. 
At first this match met with some opposition ; but it was 
finally acceded to, and they are very happy together. It 
was not a little interesting to see the Duchess of Orleans, 
the widow of the late Duke who was so conspicuous a 
character in the French Revolution, at this court. Her 
conduct through life has been equally irreproachable in 
prosperity, as well as when labouring under the heaviest 
misfortunes ; and she bears the latter with so much for¬ 
titude, that it is impossible to help feeling the highest 
respect and regard for her. I believe the Duchess now 
resides at Mahon. 

I have been informed that when the Royal Family 
were at Naples, no court in Europe was more splendid ; 
of course, much of this has been done away, but they still 
retain a part of it. 

When they go to the Opera it is a gala-night, and 
everybody must dress for the occasion. On these nights, 
only, the theatre is brilliantly lighted up, and the tout 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 7 $ 

ensemble has a very splendid appearance; for in no 
part of the world have I ever seen people who dress 
better, or more magnificently. 

When the royal party go any where in carriages they 
have six horses, sometimes only four, with attendants; 
but, except at night, they seldom have any guards, not 
even when they go into the country. 

They are very fond of the Favorita, a country resi¬ 
dence about two miles from Palermo. It is built after 
the Chinese fashion, and has a very picturesque appear¬ 
ance. The grounds are large, laid out with great taste, 
and well cultivated ; with immense quantities of every 
species of game, which are almost tame. This place h a « 
not been long formed : in a few years, when the planta¬ 
tions get higher, it will be beautiful ; even now, it is one 
of the most agreeable rides about Palermo. 

The situation is particularly fine: it is placed in a 
plain, on one side of which is Monte Pelegrino ; on the 
other, but at a greater distance, are seen immense moun¬ 
tains, which form the back-ground of Palermo: at the 
end, like a vista, are seen the towers and cupolas of the 
capital; on the left of which the sea is visible. 


The house itself is only adapted for that fine climate, 


76 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

being, from the style of the building, much exposed to 
the weather. There are several ways of entering, either 
by the ground-floor, or by a circular staircase by which 
there is an ascent to the top of the house, or to any of 
the different ranges of apartments. It forms a square, 
and mirandas run all round each floor. The rooms are 
good, the views fine, and each set of apartments are fur¬ 
nished in a different style. One is English; another Chi¬ 
nese, the paintings of which are beautiful; another after 
the Turkish fashion, the Ottomans, cushions, &c. of 
which were all presents from the Grand Seignor; and, 
indeed, nothing can exceed their beauty. 

There are many things at this place well worth seeing; 
but a person should go more than once, otherwise the 
eye does not take notice of every thing amongst such a 
variety of objects. 

The collection of marbles appeared to me particularly 
fine : there are also some very good pictures, and the 
paintings on the walls of all the rooms are well worth 
a close examination. On the ground-floor there is a very 
good deception: it is a room painted to have the appearance 
of a broken roof, with ivy hanging over it, and dripping 
with wet. It is so well done as to have all the appearance 
of a miserable damp chamber; and it is some time before 
a stranger, at entrance, can help fancying it feels cold. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


77 


In another apartment, where the Royal Family some¬ 
times eat, there is a circular table, which rises through 
the floor, and which communicates with the kitchen, so 
that the company are served without the trouble of ask¬ 
ing for any thing. Before each person is a wooden 
platter, near which are several labels. All that is neces¬ 
sary is to send down with the dish one of the labels, on 
which is written what is wished for, and it comes up 
again with a plate on it of what was ordered. The 
mechanism is simple and ingenious, but it appeared not 
to have been much used, for on looking down I ob¬ 
served a large rat, which had taken up his abode in it, 
and was walking about the framework. 

There are several approaches to the house, all leading 
through the grounds, in which persons are allowed to 
ride; but dogs are not admitted. 

Immediately behind the Favorita is an enclosed garden, 
which is tastefully and agreeably laid out. 

The country on all sides offers a beautiful appearance: 
it is well cultivated in this direction from the capital, 
and is almost entirely enclosed. There are several palaces 
belonging to the nobility near the Favorita, well worth 
seeing, either for their size or their architecture: and 


78 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

a stranger should not leave Palermo without having made 
excursions into its vicinity. 

There is a degree of deference paid to the Royal 
Family of Sicily that is rather revolting to the feelings 
of an Englishman. This consists in a general stoppage 
of carriages the moment they appear: and when they 
pass, the persons within must stand up and bow, whilst 
even those who are walking must not only make an 
obeisance, but stop also until they pass. This custom 
ought, certainly, in a great measure, to be abolished. 
Nothing can be more proper than that every respect 
should be paid to the sovereign of a country; but I con¬ 
ceive this would be fully effected by persons bowing as 
they passed. I confess I do not see the necessity of 
a whole string of carriages being stopped, and this not 
once, but every time they go by. I have seen the Queen on 
the Marino at Palermo, when there have been more than 
three hundred carriages: she has remained there upwards 
of an hour, and the above ceremony has taken place 
during the whole time. Now, as the Marino is not more 
than a mile in length, it may be easily imagined how 
tedious this is to every one. 

In regard to dress, the Royal Family are by no means 
very splendid: on particular occasions, indeed, I have 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


79 


seen the Queen rather magnificently habited, particularly 
in her diamonds, which are very fine; but, generally 
speaking, this is not the case. The King always wears 
a plain blue coat, with a star; the hereditary Prince 
appears in the same simple costume; and their manners, 
a*s I have already remarked, are very gracious. When 
the Queen was pleased at meeting any person, she divested 
herself of all her high rank; and I have frequently seen 
her put her head quite out of the carriage, to kiss her 
hand to some particular friend. This is, indeed, a mere 
trifle; but I am inclined to believe that it is by these 
trifles the real character is discovered. 

In large companies, she generally went once round the 
room during the evening; but if she wished to speak to 
any person, she rose without ceremony, like any pri¬ 
vate individual. In kissing her hand, it is customary to 
put one knee to the ground. 

There was not much etiquette practised in her pre¬ 
sence. I was in company with her many times, par¬ 
ticularly at Lord Amherst’s, where guards were 
placed on the staircase, and in the anti-rooms, and 
some dragoons were in the court of the palace. In the 
apartment where Iler Majesty was, the principal cere¬ 
mony consisted in leaving a space in the dance, so that 
no one might turn their backs to her; which must also 


80 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


be attended to in walking past her : but this is the same 
at all courts. The Queen generally sat on a sofa, some¬ 
times with part of her family, but more often alone, or 
with Lady Amherst and one or two attendants. Prince 
Leopold, and the Princess, now Duchess of Orleans, gene¬ 
rally danced: there was no separate set for them, but they 
joined the other dancers. 

When Her Majesty retired she was attended to the 
bottom of the staircase; but even this she would not 
always allow. I heard her say one night in French, when 
she refused this attention, that the less ceremony she was 
treated with, the more welcome she should consider 
herself. This expression from a Queen denotes, in my 
opinion, sentiment and feeling. 

The palace in which the Royal Family resides at 
Palermo is situated in a square, near the south gate of 
the city, at the top of the principal street. It is a large 
irregular ancient building, forming an immense whole of 
parts very discordant in architecture, being built at dif¬ 
ferent times ; but contains within it a great number of 
apartments, some of which are very good, and command 
an extensive and pleasing prospect of the vicinity. The' 
gateway did not appear to me to be sufficiently large in¬ 
proportion to the magnitude of the other parts. The 
-staircase is of very fine marble, and would be esteemed 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


81 


very handsome, was it not for the customs of this coun¬ 
try, which are not of the most cleanly nature. The chapel 
is well worth attention, not for its size, but on account 
of the Mosaic-work with which it is wholly covered. 

The edifice itself is evidently of Arabic or Saracenic 
origin, with grey romantic towers of Norman architec¬ 
ture, whose solemn character is not destroyed by addi¬ 
tions of a later date. 

Formerly this was the residence of the Viceroy, at 

« 

which time the noble halls, so extensive as to be calcu¬ 
lated for the most numerous assemblies, were then occu¬ 
pied as courts of justice, particularly on the ground-floor. 

There are some very fine pictures; but I was informed 
the greater part of the collection brought from Naples 
have never been unpacked. In the gallery there were 
several artists at work, copying from originals: some of 
them appeared to possess considerable talents; one in 
particular drew portraits in crayons, in the most beautiful 
manner. A considerable collection of paintings, taken 
from the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii, still in 
excellent condition, with the colours as bright as if done 
yesterday, are also to be seen here. It is remarkable 
that the costume of the women in these pictures is as 
nearly as possible in the fashion of the present day, and 

M 


82 


SI CILV AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


has, no doubt, been copied by the directors of the mode. 
The furniture of this palace, without being very magni¬ 
ficent, is handsome. The rooms are extremely well-pro¬ 
portioned ; and if their majesties have not so much state 
as at Naples, they appear at least to possess quite as 
much comfort. 

I recommend a stranger not to leave the palace without 
paying a visit to the private armory of the King: it is 
well worth his attention. His Majesty is very fond of 
shooting, and he possesses an excellent collection of guns 
of every description, and all kinds of w r eapons, both 
offensive and defensive. 

Amongst many things deserving of notice, I was parti¬ 
cularly struck with an immense sword, supposed to be 
two thousand years old, if not more: nothing could exceed 
the beauty of its workmanship. The handle represents 
the head of a Sphinx, made of the purest silver ; the 
blade long, and similar to those worn by staff-officers in 
this country. 

On the left of the palace, immediately over one of the 
gates of the city, is a very fine observatory, from which 
the visitant can overlook the whole country round the 
capital, and which contains a very fine collection of astro¬ 
nomical instruments. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


83 


The existence of this establishment, previous to the 
arrival of the Royal Family, is honourable to Sicilian 
science. It was established by a venerable priest, Father 
Piazza, a native of the Valteline, who was engaged here 
some years ago as a teacher of astronomy; previous to 
which he had visited England in search of astronomical 
knowledge. Whilst in London, he became acquainted 
with the ingenious Herschel, with whom he long kept 
up a scientific correspondence ; and, like his friend, turned 
his attention to the improvement of his instruments, par¬ 
ticularly one for the observation of the heavens during 
the day, in which he displayed considerable abilities, but 
aided by the skill and acumen of our famous astronomical 
mechanist, Ramsden. 

In these slight sketches of the Royal Family, their 
habits, their residence, and their mode of living, I have 
endeavoured, however imperfectly, to give my readers 
some acquaintance with them. Whether I have succeeded, 
I must leave to them to decide; at all events, I have 
strictly adhered to what I was myself an eye-witness to; 
and in narrating this, I have been equally particular in 
expressing only my own sentiments on what I did see. 


84 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS» 


CHAPTER VI. 

' ' ‘ * ’ , 

author’s ARRIVAL AT GIRGENTI — APPEARANCE OF THAT 

CITY AT SEA.-MAZARA.-REMARKS ON IT.-MARS ALLA.- 

TRAPANI-THE COAST, AND APPEARANCE OF THE COUN¬ 
TRY.-ARRIVAL AT PALERMO. — DESCRIPTION OF THE 

CAPITAL. 

. .... *- £ . . . * , ». 

The ship in which I left England was destined for 
Malta; but as it was my intention to visit that island 
before I returned home, I did not at that time wish to 
be so much taken out of my way. With a little per¬ 
suasion, the captain was induced to bear down to some 
fishing boats that were off the coast of Sicily, one of which 
agreed to take me to Mazara, then not very distant, to 
which place it belonged. We were at this time close 
to Girgenti; but they would not go there. The ap¬ 
pearance of Girgenti from the sea is uncommonly line; 
indeed, it is impossible to help viewing it without con¬ 
siderable interest. This is the ancient Agrigentum, and 
was formerly the largest, the most powerful, and most 
populous city in Sicily, except Syracuse: of its ancient 
grandeur little remains but ruins: of these much may be 
seen from the sea, particularly on the declivity, outside 
of the walls of the old city, where, even at a distance. 


v^mri y « -w 


































































































SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 85 

may be discerned one side of an ancient edifice, with 
thick walls formed of immense stones, with half-pro¬ 
jecting pillars, said to be of the Doric order, and very 
handsomely ornamented: this is generally supposed to 
have been the Temple of Esculapius. 

The modern city is built on the top of a very high hill, 
four miles distant from the sea, where the ancient Greek 
castle formerly stood, and encircles it almost to the 
bottom: in consequence it has the appearance of an am¬ 
phitheatre ; and the spectator is enabled distinctly to see 
every part of it; but it loses most of its beauty on a near 
approach, the streets being narrow, and the houses in 
general ill-built. 

This town is situated in the province of Yal di Mazara: 
it has a castle, and is the see of a Bishop, who is also 
Suffragan of Palermo. As the country around it is very 
productive, great pains have been taken to form a new 
port; but if one may judge from the small size of the 
village close to it, it has not yet answered the intended 
purpose. In ancient times, indeed, when their vessels 
were very small, it is not surprising that it should have 
been considered as an emporium of commerce; but it is 
evident, even from a passing glance, that little has been 
done here by Nature to form a port; and the pre¬ 
sent harbour is nothing more than a pier of three sides, 



86 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

carried out a small distance into the sea, with some 
military defences at its projecting point. 

To judge of it at a distance, its appearance confirms 
the report of its being admirably executed both for strength 
and neatness; but still it never has, and perhaps never 
will, possess the advantages of shelter and deep water, as 
it is entirely exposed to the Scirocco wind ; which assists 
the waves, and even impels them so as to fill it up with 
quantities of sand. 

* ■ 

In passing along this classical shore, it was impossible 
to pass a point or bay without the mournful recollection 
of past times, or meditating on those whose memory gave 
a charm to the most barren spots. Some distance from 
Girgenti we could faintly see by the deepening twi¬ 
light the distant towers of Siacca, in ancient times famous 
as the Selinuntian baths, and more so from having given 
birth to the tyrant Agathocles, who was the son of a 
potter in this place : nay, the inhabitants boast of higher 
origin ; for they assert that its baths were first discovered 
by Daedalus. Without imitating his flight, however, into 
the regions of antiquity, I can only pretend to say that 
its present situation seems very agreeable, rising on a 
gently-swelling hill, and in the midst of a country 
whose thick foliage consists of the orange, lemon, and 
fig-trees. This vicinity, too, is perhaps the most famous 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 8J 

in Sicily for the Pistachio-tree, which grows here in great 
abundance; but, as in other parts of the island, never 
produces any fruit, unless another of the same species, 
called here Scornabuca, bearing small flowers, but never 
having fruit, is planted near to it. It is remarkable that 
this custom has existed long before the sexual-classifi¬ 
cation of the great Linnreus. 

Of other objects, faintly seen, were some ruins on the 
sea-shore, supposed to be the remains of some temples 
of the ancient Selinuntise, and which the boatmen called 
the Pillars of Castel Vetrano, a town at some distance: 
very little, indeed, of them can now be seen; but the 
country around seems fertile in vines and olives: and if 
we are to give credit to the epithet, <c Palmosa,” ap¬ 
plied to it by Virgil, it must formerly have produced 
the date-tree, or palm ; but as to its present existence, I 
cannot speak. 

Our boat did not arrive at Mazara till twelve o’clock 
at night; when the gates were shut. The consul, how¬ 
ever, got up immediately, and received me with much 
hospitality, though so late. A hot supper was imme¬ 
diately provided, and a most excellent bed in his own 
house, where he insisted all my luggage should be sent. 
I remained here two days. This place has evidently 
been much larger. It is a very ancient town, and is the 


88 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


seat of a Bishop. Great quantities of ruins, and large 
heaps of stone, formerly belonging to buildings, lay scat¬ 
tered towards the sea-shore ; from whence the inhabitants 
are fond of claiming the antiquity of the ancient Selinus; 
an honour not allowed to them by antiquaries. Like 
most other towns in Sicily^, it is walled all round. It 
has several handsome churches, some of which I visited : 
they contained some fine altar-pieces, a few tolerable 
pictures, and several very ancient monuments, of the finest 
oriental marble; particularly in the Cathedral, where 
there are three large sepulchral urns, executed in high 
relief, supposed to be Roman, but with obliterated in¬ 
scriptions. One of these, in particular, has a most ex¬ 
quisite battle of cavalry, generally considered by anti¬ 
quarians as executed in a grand and beautiful style, its 
composition being highly elegant; whilst its design, as 
well as its workmanship, have induced many to consider 
it of the remains of Greek elegance. Another is sup¬ 
posed to represent the story of Meleager; but they are 
in general too much defaced to be accurately determined. 

Before this cathedral there is a square, sufficiently an¬ 
tique in its style of building to be picturesque: nothing 
of it, however, is before the Gothic ages, as no remains 
of Roman architecture are to be found within the walls, 
although that people must once have formed a numerous 
colony here, if one may judge from the great number of 


* 


SiClLY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 8$ 

their tombs and sepulchral inscriptions without the 
walls : and yet scarcely any thing is recorded of the place 
in the ancient history of the island. 

V 

Like many of the towns in Sicily, its external ap¬ 
pearance is prepossessing, from the view of its several 
convents and religious spires, many of which are highly 
ornamented : yet the tourist, when traversing its narrow 
winding streets, does not meet with that agreeable 
elegance which he might have expected. 

The Bishop’s residence is dignified by the name of 
Palace: it contained nothing worth notice. The barracks, 
and residence of the Governor, were equally bad. Upon 
the whole, however, this town, from which a third part 
of the island has its name, is not one of the worst in 
Sicily: a little liberality in government would again 

enable it to become a place of some consequence: and 

\ 

whenever the laws relative to the exportation of Grain 
are altered, there is no doubt this place will flourish, 
and that the interior of their habitations will no longer 
display bare walls. The country immediately round 
Mazara is more level than it generally is in Sicily, and 
appears to be uncommonly fertile and rich in herbage. 
It may also have other sources of wealth; for on the 
range of hills that divide the Val de Mazara from east 


* 


N 


90 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

to west, the rocks present a very brilliant appearance at 
a distance, containing large masses of talc and gypsum. 
When I was there, it was just before the harvest. On 

every side were seen the most luxuriant crops ; and in no 

» 

part of the country were the necessaries of life in greater 
abundance: but the same oppressive system, which I 
have already alluded to, that tends to depress every 
effort of industry, has had the same effect here. Grain 
grows in great abundance in this part of the country : 
now, if the exportation of it was permitted, without the 
unjust restrictions annexed to the privilege of doing it, 
this alone would prove a source of opulence to its inha¬ 
bitants, more particularly as it possesses a very tolerable 
harbour for small vessels: and as the distance from Malta 
is only twenty leagues, the supplying that island with 
Grain would soon render Mazara a place of considerable 
consequence. Sooner or later, this measure will become 
absolutely necessary; indeed, it is possible that since 
my return to England some change of this kind may 
have taken place ; and for the sake of the finest country: 
in the world, I sincerely hope it either has or will. 

Before leaving Mazara, it is proper to notice that 

/ 

there has long been in this town a very humane fraternity, 
established for the purpose of redeeming Christian slaves: 
aiid it has been said that instances have occurred of the 






SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


91 


members actually selling themselves, in order to pay for 
the liberation of others. 

My first intention was to have proceeded over land to 
Palermo; but the difficulty of procuring horses or 
mules, from its being harvest-time, and the impossibility 
of carrying all my baggage in that manner, determined 4 
me to proceed by water. 

I procured therefore an open boat, which is called a 
sparonaro: they carry from ten to twenty persons, 
according to their size; have one very large sail, and 
rise at each end with a beak, like the Roman gallies : 
round them runs a small ledge. They are much deeper 
than our boats : some have an awning at the stem ; but 
unfortunately I could not procure one, the consequence 
of which was, suffering much from the heat. The distance 
from Mazara to Palermo by sea is about ninety miles: 
the charge for this was fifteen dollars, with the promise 
of a small additional present for civility and attention. 

I left Mazara about seven o’clock on a very fine even¬ 
ing with a fair wind blowing rather fresh. These boats 
sail extremely fast: and the coast of Sicily is so free 
from breakers, that they are almost always able to keep 
close to land. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


92 

^ ^ passed Marsala. I did not £*o on shore, it bein'* 
too late. L nis is the place I have already mentioned 
as producing very good wine. The town lays flat; but 
in the back-ground are seen immense mountains. This 
place is also in the province of Val di Mazara: it is the 
ancient Lilyboeum, and formerly possessed a very good 
harbour, anciently very famous; but it was destroyed 
by order of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, who directed 
the harbour to be entirely filled up, that it might not be 
taken possession of by the Corsairs from the coast of 
Africa, as they had then generally chosen this as their 
landing-place to ravage the island, from the very con¬ 
venient situation of its port. 

I understand, that, notwithstanding its ancient origin, 
it possesses very few remnants of antiquity ; but on the 
way fiom Mazara, a short distance before coming to 
Marsala, the stranger has pointed out to him some caves 
cut in the rocks, which are said to run five or six miles 
in some directions. These may have been the ancient 
quarries ; but I had no opportunity of examining them, 
nor even, though close to the sea-shore, a grotto and 
well, over which a small chapel has been built, and which 
must be highly interesting to the antiquary, possessing 
still some of the ancient Mosaic-work, and being generally 
considered as the residence of the Sibyl in ancient times. 







SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


4)3 


The vicinity of Marsala might soon become rich from 
industry, as here, not only the best, but the greatest 
quantity, may be collected of that plant from which the 
Barilla is made. It is sometimes called Soda, sometimes 
Saponara, and its cultivation is very simple, being sown 
in spring, and cut down in the autumn, like other crops, 
and then burnt to ashes. 

It was an uncommonly fine night, affording us a fine 
view of the Cape of Lilyboeum, a long low point; and 
the moon had been up some time when we arrived near 
Trapani, after passing a small island, the ancient Motya, 
but now called St. Pantaleon. It once contained a city, 
said to have been built by the Phoenicians when they 
came to settle in Sicily, and from whence they made 
many attacks upon Lilyboeum. 

Some remnants of ancient edifices may be discerned, 
formed of parts of the walls with the ruins of some 
antique towers ; but not having gone on shore, I cannot 
speak as to their origin ; they are not, however, supposed 
to be of such high antiquity as the times of the Phoenicians, 
but rather to be of Roman workmanship, from the stones 
being regularly cut, and from their general resemblance 
to the remains of the latter people. 

This town of Trapani is in the same province with 


94 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

Mazara; and it has a large harbour, which is defended 
by a fort built on the adjacent island of Colombiera; 
and it is rather curious that both this port and that of 
Messina should have received their ancient names from 
their similitude to a sickle, this in particular being 
derived from the Greek Drepanon. The rocks and 
mountains here are immense: the town itself is built on 
the top of the highest, and runs downward to the foot 
of it, forming at the bottom another; so that from the 
great height of the mountain, and the separation between 
them, it has the appearance of being different places. 
It is off Trapani wdiere the pearl aud coral fishery is 
carried on, the latter to a considerable extent, as well as 
a profitable tunny fishery at the isles ofFavignano and 
Falconieri; and here are some salt-works on a very exten¬ 
sive scale. The Trapanese are very ingenious in imitating 
antiques : some of them are extremely well done. It is 
also famous for the beauty of its women, whom all 
travellers consider as pure descendants of the ancient 
Grecian colonists, their features being strictly in that 
style, with sparkling and spirited black eyes, beaming 
the most enchanting vivacity, and theircomplexions much 
fairer than the Sicilian women in general, rivalling the 
finest of more northern regions—an excellence attributed 
to the serenity and purity of the air in this part of the island. 

We had hardly passed a head-land, which projected 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 95 

out a considerable distance on the other side of the town, 
before one of those gales of wind so frequent in the 

Mediterranean arose; and what made it still worse was 

\ 

its being what is called a Scirocco wind ; in consequence 
we were obliged to shelter our little bark under the 
enormous mountains behind Trapani. The sailors threw 
themselves on the beach and slept: I preferred walking 
to some ruins I saw at a little distance, which did Hot 
prove very interesting; but the shadows thrown on the 
hills by the reflection of the moon, with not a cloud to 
be seen, and no sound to be heard, except the dashing 
of the waves, produced an effect on the mind by no 
means unpleasing. 

In such a country as this, the ideas that press upon 
the imagination, even of a Tyro in classic lore, are 
peculiarly interesting, and prompt him strongly after¬ 
wards to further investigation and inquiry. 

On this very spot jEneas landed, and here died Iks 
father Anchises ; here too it was that the Trojan ladies, 
unwilling to encounter the dangers of the seas any longer, 
thought proper to set Are to his fleet, which was only- 
saved by the miraculous interposition of the protecting 
goddess. 


On this coast also, and amongst these mountains, the 


§6 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

Cyclops are fabled to have resided previous to their 
removal to the vicinity of Mount Etna: but it is not 
alone for ancient tradition that it is famous ; for in later 
times, the Secret Council, in which the massacre of the 
French invaders, called the Sicilian Vespers, was deter¬ 
mined on, was held in a tower which stands on an almost 
insulated rock, in a retired spot on the sea-shore. 

In its immediate neighbourhood too is Mount Eryx, 
now called Monte di Trapani, not more than two miles 
distant from the town, and near whose foot we passed the 
night. This mountain is generally considered as next in 
height to Mount Etna, and on its summit are still some 
remains of the ancient temple dedicated to Venus, with 
some ruins of a more modern date, described as Saracenic. 
The people of the country call it San Giuliano, and 
seem to have lost all traces of that extraordinary mode 
of worship of the laughter-loving goddess, adopted here 
in honour of Venus Erycina. These scenes were indeed 
disgraceful to human nature, and are supposed to have 
had their origin connected with the beauty of the sex at 
this place, for which it seems remarkable, even in the 
earliest periods of history. 

Fortunately, however, the pure spirit of Christianity 
has put a stop to these sacrifices; though, perhaps, 
sacrifices something of the same nature may still exist. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 97 

as the ladies here are said to be sought after in matri¬ 
monial connections from other parts of the island, many 
of them thereby making the most opulent matches. 

Towards morning we were able to proceed: the wind 
still blowing fresh, and so hot as to be almost suffocating, 
we were soon obliged to stop again: we did not proceed 
till three o'clock, when the extreme heat of the sun began 
to decrease, and a slight breeze from the east gave a little 
coolness to the air. 

The senses were indeed relieved a little by the contemn 
plation of the romantic islands in the offing, Favognana 
already mentioned, Maritimo, and Leranzo. 

The first of these has the honour of being particularly 
described in the Odyssey, the Greek poet having selected 
this as the place where Ulysses was driven on shore during 
a nocturnal sale : here too he is described as hunting the 
wild goats, and as having proceeded hence to the 
opposite coast, where he met with the Cyclops. 

As Homer speaks of it as uncultivated, and gives it the 
epithet of woody, it is most probable that it was then 
uninhabited, except by the wild goats, whose descendants 
still range their ancient freehold, amidst some small groves 
of ash and poplar. At present it is inhabited, and its 


o 


98 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

simple inhabitants are principally employed in an arca¬ 
dian life, tending their cattle and flocks, which here find 
most excellentpasturage,and in preparing a highly esteemed 
species of cheese, whose export might become valuable: 
as there is also some corn raised, this place may be sus¬ 
ceptible of great improvement, possessing an excellent 
though small harbour, whose description from the pen of 
Homer is stated to be so correct that it is evident he must 
have visited this spot. 

The other two islands are of considerable height, and 
seemingly less adapted for agricultural purposes. 

I never remember feeling so much inconvenience from 
heat as during the time we were obliged to remain under 
the mountains: there was not the least shade, nor had 
we any shelter from a vertical sun but a sail; and the 
absence of air was w r orse than the effect of the sun. There 
v r as a small house near the shore, full of ill-looking men, 
where nothing of any kind could be procured. I got a 
few red and white mulberries and some green almonds 
from a farm-house at a little distance. They were cool 
and refreshing, but I confess I was truly happy when the 
change of wind enabled us to depart. 

Between this and Palermo we did not again stop : the 
country the whole way had the most beautiful appear- 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 99 

ance: at a little distance the want of cultivation is not 
perceived, and the luxuriant produce of the soil, though 
left to nature, looks like a garden : sometimes a small 
village or some farm-house appeared, situated on the side 
of a hill or the bottom of a valley, breaking the sameness 
of the scene. On every side are seen enormous mountains. 
The appearance of Sicily is that of the sea in a storm—rock 
on rock, mountain on mountain: no sooner is one ascended, 
than another appears before the traveller, still higher. Part 
of the coast forms a deep bay, at the bottom of which is the 
town of Carina, seen from a considerable distance, being 
situated on a lofty hill. This is the scite of the ancient 
town of Hycera, where the well-known Lais first saw the 
light of day. She was taken prisoner when very young by the 
Athenians, who had invaded this territory under the com¬ 
mand of Nicias. She was even then as celebrated for her 
beauty as afterwards for the ill-use she made of it; she was 
perhaps, however, more the victim of tyranny than even of 
her own indiscretion, as she was, along with many others of 
her fellow-citizens, publicly sold in the Athenian market. 

On approaching Palermo the scenery becomes, if 
possible, still more magnificent. Monte Pelegrino, 
which forms one side of the bay, must be seen—it 
cannot be described. This does not so much arise 
from its height, though immense, as from its situation 
and extent, and the bold scenery it offers in various 


100 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

directions. We arrived at Palermo early in the morning 
of the second day, having thus been only two nights and 
one day in coming the distance of ninety miles in a 
small open boat, ten hours of which w r e were at anchor 
under the rocks of Trapani. 

A great part of this distance w r e w r ere obliged to row, 
there being hardly any breeze; but the fatigue a Sicilian 
sailor will bear is astonishing: they will row a whole day, 
with short intervals of rest, exposed to the rays of a 
burning sun, with large heavy oars, at each stroke of 
which they rise and sit down so as to give the -whole 
strength of the body ; and to support this fatigue, coarse 
bread, bad wine, and a little cheese, form their chief 
food: notwithstanding which, they are in general large 
muscular men, with limbs of the finest shape, and of a 
great size. The contour of their countenance is expres¬ 
sive, and their features marked : the Greek or Roman 
nose appeared to me most common, with fine teeth, gene¬ 
rally dark eyes, and thick curley hair; and though their 
complexions were dark, it was more the effect of exposure 
to the sun than any thing else. I confess I had formed a 
very different idea of the Sicilians, conceiving that they 
were a small, weak race of men; but this is only so where 
luxury or dissipation lias enervated the constitution, w hich 
is not often the case amongst the lowef classes. The Sici¬ 
lians, under which name are comprised those Greeks who 































SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


101 


have retained their ancient dress and customs, and who will 
be more particularly described, are as fine a race of men 
as any in the world, not excepting my own countrymen. 
We must not judge of the inhabitants by those of the capital, 
though even there my observation would be found to hold 
good, but from the lower and general classes of society, 
which in all countries form the great mass of population. 
If the Sicilian government would pay some attention to 
education, would encourage industry by every means in 
their power, and the higher ranks would set an example 
of every moral virtue in their own mode of living, I am 
convinced there would not be a people in the world more 
capable of commanding our respect and admiration. 
I may be thought prejudiced in their favour: I am not 
conscious of being so. No person had a worse idea than 
myself of the present state of morals in Sicily previous 
to my arrival there. I have seen a great deal of it, and 
had many opportunities of witnessing it: but there is 
no rule without an exception : and there are great num¬ 
bers of the inhabitants of Sicily who are good and vir¬ 
tuous ; and the calling the attention of these to the 
lamentable situation of their more frail brethren, and 
showing what they might be, is the last remaining hope 
that some change for the better may be brought about. 
Whether that information, which is now so generally 
introduced amongst the lower ranks of society in this 
country, and which it is the fashion of the present age 


102 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


to promote, will, or will not, tend to the general hap- 
pi ness and goodness of mankind, remains to be proved: 
the effects and consequences will not be felt till ano¬ 
ther century: but that some attention to the morals 
and education of a people is necessary, no person can 
deny ; and it is to these I would draw the attention of 
the Sicilian government, as the first measure requisite to 
make their country rich and flourishing : and as the first 
step towards producing general improvement in the 
morals of the people, I would humbly recommend that 
the fine system of morality and goodness which is laid 
down as our duty in the New Testament should be 
read to them in a language they can understand. I am 
certain this would have the happiest effect, as it would 
teach them, that, although according to their tenets, 
good works without faith will not ensure them a passport 
to Heaven; yet that no faith, however great, will excuse 
the commission of crimes: a fact which they are almost 
w holly and entirely ignorant of. 

The approach to the city of Palermo, from the sea, 
presents a most enchanting prospect. The bay itself is 
very extensive, and encircled in its sweep by a diversity 
of mountains and hills, Avhose various forms "ive an 
interesting grandeur to the scene. Between the beach 
and the foot of these hills lies a wide open plain, from 
whence rise, in great majesty, towers, cupolas, and spires. 


m 




I 







SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


103 


in wild confusion, yet displaying a graceful symmetry. 
On the right hand, at the entrance, is a light-house, from 
whence spreads a thick grove to the very environs of the 
port, lining the beach for a considerable extent; joined 
to which, the base of the lofty and almost perpendicular 
Monte Pelegrino rises above a forest of masts of the 
Various shipping in the harbour. 

This harbour, indeed, at Palermo, is not very large, 
but is safe and commodious, except in the north-east 
quarter, where it is exposed to the swell of the sea ; 
whilst the ships in the bay suffer great inconvenience, at 
times, from the westerly winds, which sometimes blow in 
heavy gusts from the lofty mountainous tract of country, 
and the valley called II Colie. 

The present harbour is not of very ancient date, as in 
former times, when shipping were in general very small, 
two long winding creeks of a considerable breadth were 
fully sufficient for all purposes of commerce. These 
were then really within the town ; but having been com¬ 
pletely choaked up with the sand, driven in by the 
north-easterly gales, and washed down by the torrents, 
in the early part of the sixteenth century, are now entirely 
tilled up and built over ; as in the then imperfect state of 
engineering it was considered that they were totally in¬ 
capable of being restored to their pristine uses. 


104 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

We were not long detained at the Custom-House, 
and were soon allowed to land. There are two hotels at 
Palermo, in the Piazza Marina. I went to one called 
the Britannica, which was much better than I expected ; 
indeed, very comfortable, though not quite equal to those 
of our own country. 

A stranger is much struck by the first view of Palermo, 
even on a nearer approach. Every house appears a 
palace; but the eye soon gets accustomed to this; and 
a more close inspection, particularly into the interior of 
them, soon lessens our admiration: for though the prin¬ 
cipal streets are ornamented with statues and fountains, 
and with many edifices, whose exterior, at a distance, 
seems worthy of a capital, yet most of the others are 
extremely narrow and winding, very dirty, and almost 
impassable, at times, from the badness of the pavement. 

A slight historical notice of this now restored capital 
will not be irrelevant in marking its progress to its pre¬ 
sent state, particularly as it claims a very high antiquity ; 
so much.so, that its inhabitants, who consider their own 
personal consequence as depending much on that of their 
native place, have asserted that it was a city in the days 
of the earliest possessors of the Island of Sicdy. Others, 
indeed, and even antiquaries, have not gone so far back, 
but have attributed its first founding to the Phoenician 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


105 


merchants, who stopped' here during their commercial 
cruises; whilst some ascribe it to the Greek colonists, 
or to the Carthaginians, the rivals and successors of the 
sea-faring merchants of Tyre and Sidon. 

If we were to judge from its name, which anciently 
was Panormus, supposed to have been called so from the 
excellence of its harbour, its name and origin might be 
attributed to the Greeks; but then this name has been 
supposed to be only a change from the Phoenician 
appellation, particularly as it is known that it was 
called Balirmu, by the Arabs, or Saracens. 

We may safely trust, however, to those historians 
who relate that the Phoenicians at first established them¬ 
selves in small settlements, or factories, on the coast of 
Sicily, until the frequent arrival of colonies from Greece 
rendered it necessary for them to assemble together in 
some secure place; when this was chosen on account of 
its harbour. From them it came to the Carthaginians, 
who possessed it until the fifth century of the Roman era, 
when it fell into the hands of that enterprising and war¬ 
like people; and so attached did Palermo become to the 
Roman cause, that it was always applauded for its 
fidelity. It indeed suffered, and submitted to, all the 
changes and reverses both of the republic and the empire, 
until early in the ninth century of the Christian era, 

p 


106 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

when the Saracens attacked and took it, but were not 
then able to preserve it long, though they soon after 
recaptured it, and established it as the metropolis of 
their empire in Sicily ; when, for two centuries* it shone 
in all the pride and splendour of Barbaric pomp. 

From the Saracens it was taken early in the eleventh 
century by the Norman adventurers, headed by Robert 
Guiscard, and his brother Earl Roger, who here esta¬ 
blished the seat of government for their feudal domains : 
ever since which period, when held by the French, and 

even in later times, it has always been the royal re- 

# 

sidence, whilst the Sicilian sovereigns lived in the island, 
and at all other times the residence of their Viceroy; 
though Messina, as will be noticed, has of late years 
claimed a superiority over it. 

This city, which is the capital of Sicily, is in the Val 
di Mazara. Its bay is formed by Monte Pelegrino on 
one side, and Cape Safforano on the other. The present 
harbour is defended by two castles, tolerably well for¬ 
tified ; but it is not considered capable of making any 
defence against an enemy. I conceive the number of 
inhabitants to be nearly two hundred thousand. 

Palermo itself is about a mile and a half from the foot 
of Monte Pelegrino. High mountains form an immense 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 10 ? 

semicircular amphitheatre behind it. Nothing can he more 
beautiful than the view of this city from any elevated 
situation: the walls which formerly surrounded it are 
only separated from the sea by the Marino, an ex¬ 
cellent road that extends along the coast for many miles. 
This city is in general built with great uniformity. There 
are two principal streets, which traverse the whole extent 
of the city, and cross each other. These are each a mile 
in length; and in the centre of them is a small square, 
called the Ottangolo. There are four gates; one at each 
extremity of these streets: and from the square above- 
mentioned the whole extent of them can be seen. From 
the Porto Felice, opening to the Marino, to the ex¬ 
tremity of the Porto Nuovo, leading to Monreale, it is 
up-hill, which adds greatly to the beauty of this street; 
producing a natural kind of perspective, that has the 
effect, however, of making it look much shorter than it 
really is. 

This street, terminated by the Porto Felice, is called 
the Cassaro, a name derived from the Saracen word 
Kasir, or Palace. The Porto Felice itself resembles a 
triumphal arch, and has an impressive effect at first en¬ 
trance on the Marino, a favourite rendezvous of the 
inhabitants of the city, as already noticed. 

During the heats of summer, nothing can be more de- 


108 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


licious than the evening resort on this promenade, cooled 
by the breeze from the sea, when the stillness of the hour 
is at times broken in upon only by the nightly serenade. 

The houses are all built to a great height, and, agree¬ 
ably to the customs of this and the neighbouring countries, 
have balconies, guarded by iron railing, to most of their 
windows. 

$ 

These projections, indeed, in some measure destroy 
the symmetry of the architecture; but this is amply 
made up by the convenience they afford of enjoying the 
cool evening breeze, in a climate generally so 'warm as 
this is. There are an immense number of churches and 
convents: I believe they exceed three hundred. The 
first time I heard all their bells ringing at once, which 
was a few days after my arrival, on occasion of a feast 
celebrated at the Madre Chiesa, or Cathedral, and at 
which the Royal Family were present, I was per¬ 
fectly stunned. There is not any attempt at harmony, 
but each ringer seems to endeavour to pull his bell as 
fast as he possibly can. 

The mode of building in this country differs greatly 
from our’s. The ground-floor, even of the most magnifi¬ 
cent palaces, frequently consists of shops: in each 
building there is a common staircase, and each stage of 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 109 

apartments forms, as it were, a separate residence, being 
generally inhabited by different families; and this is 
always the case, except in the residences of some of the 
principal nobility. 

These apartments mostly consist of a hall and four or 
five rooms, all communicating with one another: the 
number of chambers, of course, varies according to the 
size of the houses. 

In hiring apartments, a stranger is always obliged to 
furnish them. When I was there, rent was very moderate 
to what it is in England ; but I understand that since our 
army has garrisoned Palermo it is much dearer ; and now 
there is hardly a house to be had at any price. Provi¬ 
sions of all kinds were also reasonable, and in great 
plenty. Meat is now not very cheap, and milk and butter 
are very dear: still housekeeping does not cost half so 

much at Palermo as it does in this country. 

« 

Servants are also a great deal cheaper; for ten dollars 
a month a stranger may hire an excellent man servant, 
and he will keep and clothe himself: this is equal to about 
thirty pounds a year English money. There is also some 
difference in keeping a carriage: if a person occupies his 
own stable it will cost about one hundred pounds per 
annum, as a very handsome carriage can be procured for 


110 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


about one hundred and sixty ounces (one hundred 
pounds), and if not of the very best kind, for much less ; 
whilst a pair of good horses may be had from eighty to 
one hundred ounces, about sixty or seventy pounds. 

If a carriage is hired it is very dear, almost as much as 
in London : they charge an ounce per day, or twenty-five 
ounces per month, which is equal to about one hundred 
and eighty per annum. 

Wine is of course cheap: the best sort costs about 
•sixpence per bottle ; liqueurs a dollar. They have no 
malt liquors ; some kinds are said not to keep in this 
hot climate, but English porter retains all its goodness. 
I conceive therefore, by proper management, all kinds 
might be made so as to bear the heat. 

Fruit is in the greatest abundance; and every day the 
finest dessert may be procured for a mere trifle. 

The Sicilians are, I think, good cooks, at least I have 
sat down to excellent dinners. They are fond of good 
living, but are, at the same time, very temperate and 
moderate in their general habits. 

The manners of the Sicilians are extremely pleasing: 
they are open and friendly in conversation, and many of 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


Ill 


them keep open-house. The ladies that mix in society are 
in general married, but occasionally a stranger may meet 
with families who break through the rule of keeping their 
daughters at home till that even takes place ; and there 
is a much greater degree of liberty allowed in this respect 
between the two sexes than in any other part of Italy. 

They are extremely gay and animated in conversation, 
and few people carry gallantry further than they do, and 
that of the most delicate sort. There are instances of 
attachment which have continued seventeen or eighteen 
years. Conjugal infidelity is not attended with the same 
fatal consequences as it is in other countries: it seldom 
separates the husband and wife, nor does it disgrace 
children, as with us : whether this is a wise measure, 
or one which should be reprobated, I will leave to 
better judges to determine; but it certainly does prevent 
an infinite degree of misery. 

In the interior decorations of their houses some of those 
of the nobility are very magnificent, but, in general,-the 
furniture would be considered bad if in England, yet an 
Englishman soon gets reconciled to the habit of re¬ 
ceiving company in a bed-room; but this i$ by no 
means a general system ; nor is there any thing in it that 
shocks delicacy after the eye is once accustomed to it. 
The bedsteads are made of iron, with boards laid flat, 


112 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

and upon these are placed the mattrasses. This is ne¬ 
cessary on account of cleanliness, the extreme heat of 
the country producing every kind of vermin in such 
abundance, that it is only by great attention they can 
be kept away; and it is for the same reason that the 
floors are always made of tiles or marble. The best 
kind of flooring is that which is waxed all over, and 
then painted, which forms an even surface, agreeable 
to the eye, and can be more easily kept clean than 
any other. 

The rooms are all very high, generally with coved 
or vaulted ceilings : the most common mode is to have 
both the ceilings and the walls painted ; and in some 
of the palaces these paintings are beautiful. Even in 
very moderate houses, and by common painters, such 
is the genius of the country, that they will paint a 
suite of apartments in an astonishing short time, and 
in a manner that any where else would be considered 
tasteful and handsome: it is only the comparison with 
others which makes it pass unnoticed. In some of the 
ancient palaces the walls are hung with damask, divided 
into compartments by gilding, mirrors, paintings, &c. 
This is seldom done at present; indeed, the former mode 
is much better adapted to the heat of the climate. 

On the right and left of Palermo are two small tracts 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 113 

of country ; that to the east is called the Bagaria, to the 
west, II Colle. It is there that the country residences of 
the principal nobility are situated, many of which are 
fine; but I shall have occasion to make an excursion 
there with my reader in another chapter. 

The Flora Gardens are situated at the end of the 
Marino, going towards the Bagaria; and behind them are 
the Botanical Gardens, which are well worth seeing, and 
contain many curious and rare plants : anybody may 
see them, but they are not open to the public as the 
Flora Gardens are. 

The original establishment of this Botanical Garden 
arose from a garden belonging to the Prince of La Catho- 
lica, and its catalogue was therefore called Iiortus Catho- 
licus, which some have erroneously supposed to be with a 
reference to other causes. For a long period it was un¬ 
fortunately much neglected, but of late years has been 
more attended to, many Asiatic and African plants, par¬ 
ticularly the Egyptian Papyrus, having been introduced ; 
and a building, erected in a handsome style of Greek 
architecture, was originally intended for a public school 
of botany. 

The Flora Gardens are kept at the public expence, 
and are open till dark. There are two gates for entrance ; 


Q 


114 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


the others are kept locked, and only opened for the 
admission of the Royal Family. They are not large, 
but are laid out with great taste. Orange and lemon trees 
grow on each side of the walks: of these there are two prin¬ 
cipal ones that cross each other in the centre, and extend 
the whole length of the garden. There is also a circular 
walk that goes round it; and the trees in the smaller 
ones, which run in every direction, are brought together 
so as to form a shade over the head; but it is hardly suf¬ 
ficient, the foliage of the trees not being thick enough to 
keep off the sun: if they would plant a few forest trees, 
they would be of much more use. There are also some fine 
fountains in these gardens. Except on a Sunday, they are 
not so much frequented as one would suppose. They are, 
however, extremely beautiful, and, in fact, are almost the 
only place where one can walk at 110011-day. 

A handsome fountain, in particular, embellished by 
four temples of grotesque architecture, forms a central 
ornament, and presents a pleasing object from the Corso, 
which runs between the gardens and the bay. The prospect 
on all sides is delightful ; and perhaps the situation 
becomes even more interesting, when we recollect that 
on this spot, now dedicated to all the ease and hilarity of 
social and of friendly intercourse, once existed the place 
of execution for the sentences of the horrible Autos de fe, 
that issued from the mysterious walls of the bloodthirsty 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


115 


Inquisition ; an edifice fortunately no longer in existence 
for its former purposes, as its usurped power was abolished 
by his present Majesty of Sicily. 

The gardens at the Prince Paterno’s are also open to 
the public, and though smaller, are in some respects 
more agreeable, as there is a veiy fine avenue of trees, 
with numerous seats, which is always impervious to the 
rays of the sun. I shall conclude this chapter by men¬ 
tioning some of the public buildings at Palermo most 
worthy the attention of a stranger. These are the palaces 
of the King and the Archbishop, the Hospital, the house 
which was formerly the Inquisition, but which is now 
abolished, the Jesuit’s Church, and the Madre Chiesa. 
There are many others, which it is unnecessary particu¬ 
larly to mention, though they will be more fully noticed in 
another place ; for a person going to the country will soon 
discover what is worthy of his notice, and to readers the 
hare enumeration of names is, I think, even tedious, 




116 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER VII. 

? 

DESCRIPTION OP PALERMO CONTINUED.—THE MARINO.- 

MODE OF LIVING.- CONVERSATIONE.- DESCRIPTION OF 

IT.—VARIOUS REMARKS ON THE STATE OF SOCIETY AT 
PALERMO.— SICILIAN LA DIES.—STATE OF MORALS.— CAUSE 
OF CONJUGAL INFIDELITY.— EDUCATION. 


The Marino is a source of constant amusement to 
the Sicilians : it is a very broad road, bounded on one 
side by the city walls, on the other by the sea, close 
to which is a raised terrace, flagged all over for the 
pedestrians. On account of the great quantity of dust, 
it is requisite to have it watered; and this is done 
every day by men with large buckets, about half an hour 
before the carriages begin to appear. 

On the walls of the city are seen several very hand¬ 
some palaces, particularly one belonging to the Prince 
Butiro, near the Porto Felice ; and another, where the 
English minister resided when I was there. The prin¬ 
cipal and handsomest entrance to the Marino is b^ the 
Porto Felice. 

The Sicilians go out very little till the evening: 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


117 


they dine early, and, in general, sleep afterwards: they 

i 

then order their carriages about seven o’clock, which is 
the fashionable hour for going to the Marino ; and though 
the example of the English has in some measure ac¬ 
customed them to walking, yet all persons of any con¬ 
sequence have their carriages: some of the nobility keep 
ten or twelve. 

Even twenty years ago, when there was no royal 
court to tempt to extravagance in this mode of expence, 
this custom was in full force. A traveller at that period 
observed, that it was not the custom for any gentleman 
to walk on foot; so that even then, at least one thousand 
carriages were kept in the city. 

The English style was then the favourite ; and many of 
the equipages were extremely elegant; it being also the 
fashion to use only the handsomest horses they could 
procure, which were alw r ays decked out with the richest 
harness and ornaments, and the carriages crowded behind, 
with numerous footmen in splendid liveries. 

Strangers also at that time had the convenience of very 
decent hackney-coaches or carriages, some covered, and 
some open, which were- appointed for different stations' 
during the day, similar to the mode of London and other, 
capitals. 


.SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


11 8 

At the above-mentioned hour, if the evening is line, 
and tlie day has been very hot, it is not unusual some¬ 
times for above three hundred carriages of every descrip¬ 
tion, from the most magnificent to the most shabby, to 
be driving up and down the Marino, full of well-dressed 
persons, interspersed with numerous equestrians, who 
shew considerable dexterity in riding very fast through 
such long strings of carriages; at the same time the 
terrace is equally crowded with pedestrians, composed 
of high and low. Some few get out of their carriages 
and walk ; and it is near this terrace where they 
draw up, and talk to their friends: and what affords 
still more pleasure, this is the happy moment when 
lovers may meet and converse with their mistresses. 
The whole scene is delightfully animated, and is the 
amusement of every evening. The common custom is 
to remain here till it is dark, when they pay visits and 
go to private parties: at ten they drive to the Opera, 
then to the Conversatione; and after that to supper, 
either at home, or at one of the great houses, which are 
open every night. This is the constant life at Palermo, 
and it must be allowed there is no place where amuse¬ 
ments are cheaper, society more general, or attended with 
so little form or ceremony. 

There are two Opera-Houses at Palermo, one of which, 
called San Carolina, is not open till just before the Car- 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. Ilf) 

nival. The two Prima Donnas when I was there, one at 
each theatre, were both of them above mediocrity; and 
the Opera was upon the whole an agreeable amusement: 
but to those accustomed to an English stage, with the best 
singers in Europe, this will not bear much praise. I un¬ 
derstand that the performers were formerly very good ; 
but the present situation of the Continent precludes the 
best singers from coming over. 

The Conversatione is held at the Theatre San Carolina. 
This is a public society, open every evening, supported 
bv the subscriptions of the nobility. It is accessible to 
all strangers, introduced by the nobleman who presides 
for the week. 

It consists of five rooms, one of which is the entrance, 
extremely well lighted, with card tables laid out for 
private parties to play. Cards and lights, if called for, 
are paid for to the waiter ; refreshments the same ; other¬ 
wise nothing is demanded. 

On one side of the largest apartment is a table covered 
with green cloth for general play. There are two bankers, 
who deal, and who have rouleaus of money near them. 
The bank is formed by various persons: some of the first 
nobility are concerned in it; and I believe it is produc- 


120 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

« 

tive of considerable profit. The game is Rouge and Noir, 
or Bassette. They do not play for such high sums as in 
England, but I think play is more general, as ladies are 
not excepted. I seldom saw above twenty-five pounds 
put as a stake at once: occasionally I have seen fifty 
pounds ; but this was considered very high play; and 
with the greatest number, dollars or ounces were the 
common stakes ; yet a great deal of money may be lost 
at this game, however low the bets, as it is quickly 
decided. There was one nobleman, I do not recollect his 
name, who was said to have lost one hundred thousand 
crowns (twenty-five thousand pounds) at it, merely from 
partiality to the red colour, which he never changed. 
This is considered a very large sum for this country. 
I saw this nobleman, for the first time in his life, go 
on the black colour; and it is I think rather remark¬ 
able, that in a space of thirty or forty years, during 
which he had constantly played, he should never have 
done it before, considering his almost constant run of 
ill-luck with the other. 

The bank is frequently broke; but, notwithstanding, 
the proprietors are said to make a great deal by it. This 
is considered a very fair game ; but still the banker has 
many advantages; and it is well known that in all these 
games the chances are much against the player. 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


121 


The manner in which the whole is conducted is cre¬ 
ditable to the liberality of the Sicilians. I have already 
remarked that they never refuse credit to an Englishman ; 
at least, I never saw it otherwise. It may be said they 
do it to encourage play ; but still, if they had not reliance 
on our honour, they would not make it so general. An 
Englishman must be well known in his own country to 
meet with the same facility of getting any sum he might 
wish. 

The Conversatione is always held here in the winter. 
In the summer a temporary building is erected on the 
Marino, immediately behind the Porto Felice, consisting 
in the same way of three or four rooms, formed with 
boards and canvas, and painted with great taste and neat¬ 
ness : it is exactly the same, as to regulations, as at the 
other resort. There are balls at both once a month, or 
once a fortnight. 

The largest of the two opera-houses at Palermo is 
built in the shape of a semicircle ; and the regulations 
of the operas here differ materially from our’s. No 
women are admitted into the pit; and there is no gallery, 
that space being all fitted up as boxes. The price for 
admission is very trifling for going into the pit, being no 
more than four taris, or twenty-pence English, and one 
taris more for a cushion to each seat. Each person has 

R 


122 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

an arm-chair to himself, by which means the audience 
are not crowded ; and if any person takes another’s 
seat, he must restore it. The expence for a box is from 
four to eight dollars: the best situations are in general 
private boxes. The scenery and decorations are not 
very good ; and the dresses, except those of the principal 
performers, very indifferent. 

The Theatre San Carolina, though smaller, is in my 
opinion built on a much better plan: it is in shape a 
complete horse-shoe, which is certainly the best adapted 
for hearing and seeing, and it is painted in a very beau¬ 
tiful style. The price for admittance, dresses of the 
performers, and decorations of the stage, are the same 
as at the other. 

It is only on gala-nights that these houses are lighted ; 
at other times every person is obliged to furnish a light 
for his own box. This certainly destroys all effect. 

There are two or three houses at Palermo open every 
night to company. At the Prince Butiro’s the supper- 
table is always laid for thirty people : the Prince Par- 
terno’s is also the same. The former is one of the first 
noblemen in the country, both for rank, power, and 
wealth. I have already said that he is very popular: 
his annual income is supposed to be sixty thousand 
pounds per annum, an immense fortune in Sicily. lie 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 123 

is, however, much in debt. This arises from circum¬ 
stances I am not fully acquainted with ; but I believe that 
he was indebted to the Neapolitan Government, and thus 
when the Royal Family were obliged to quit Naples, 
this became a debt to the King. I do not vouch for the 
truth of this; I only mention it as it was told to me. 

The Prince lives in the most magnificent manner, in 
a noble palace looking on the Marino: he is liberal, 
hospitable, and generous, and shews very great attention 
to all Englishmen. 

He has been married twice: his present wife is a very 
beautiful woman. His daughter, by a former marriage, 
is the Princess Leonforte: she is said to have been so 
beautiful, that persons came from all parts to see her; 
and from her present appearance I can very well conceive 

it. She has been a widow some time: her daughter is 
married to the Duke de Chiamastro. 

The Prince Paterno lives much in the same manner: 
he gives very excellent dinners. His palace is one of the 
most magnificent and best furnished of any in Palermo : 
it is, however, difficult, amongst the numerous resi¬ 
dences of the nobility, to say which is the finest. The 
Prince Cassaro’s, now Prime Minister, the Prince Bel¬ 
monte’s, the Prince Palagonia’s, the Prince Carigni’s, the 


124 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS/ 

Prince Trabiea’s, and the Prince Grrammonte’s, are all 
most magnificent. At the same time, I do not think 
there are any of them who live with so much style and 
comfort as an English gentleman or nobleman of equal 
fortune. Except on particular occasions, their servants 
are not so well dressed, nor are their carriages, horses, 
&zc. to be compared to our’s. 

It must be acknowledged, however, that this system 
of life in a few of the richest of the Sicilian nobility 
produces much popularity, which, if properly applied, 
might render them extremely useful to their fellow- 
citizens, by their example. The extent to which this 
popularity may be carried, no doubt, must have excited 
jealousy in the Court, whilst resident at Naples ; but 
as under the present regime better things may be hoped 
for, it will not be irrelevant to elucidate it by a slight 
detail of an event well known about forty years ago. 

« 

The ancestor of one of the princes already mentioned 
was a nobleman of plain good sense, and of a benevolent 
and patriotic turn of mind. He held the office of Prastor, 
or Supreme Civil Magistrate, and executed his trust 
with the strictest attention to the welfare of the State, 
and the comfort and happiness of his fellow-citizens. 
To their complaints he always listened, and administered 
justice with an even hand ; their wants be relieved, and 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


125 


his whole conduct was influenced by honest impartiality, 
and his official duty executed with promptitude. 

A conduct so virtuous could not fail to excite the 
suspicions of those whose own hearts were guided by 
sinister motives, and who accordingly attributed the 
same to him. It was evident, however, from all his 
conduct, that the ambition of becoming popular was not 
so much his wish, as the desire of gratifying his honest 
patriotism with the public esteem and consideration, 
both of which he so deservedly had acquired. 

The lower order of society long considered him as a 
paternal protector; and their love was even exceeded by 
their veneration, in consequence of some striking in¬ 
stances of his regard to justice, in opposition to rank 
and influence. 

He had thus gone on advancing rapidly in the good 
opinion of his fellow-citizens, when an event took place 
which increased it considerably. This arose from a very 
scanty harvest having obliged the Senate of Palermo to 
lay in a stock of corn for public use ; but unfortunately 
they had no funds to do it with, whilst the Viceroy, 
asserting that their security was bad, refused to assist 
them from the royal treasury. 


126 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

On this occasion, the benevolent nobleman imme¬ 
diately raised the sum necessary, and advanced it at his 
own risk, taking all chance of loss upon himself. He 
was then hailed as a benefactor and saviour, but unfor¬ 
tunately lived a very short time to enjoy this additional 
popularity; for being attacked by a fit of the stone, the 
Viceroy’s surgeon was called in, who performed the 
necessary operation ; but his death became inevitable. 

Prayers were immediately put up to Heaven for his 
recovery, and all the Saints in Heaven were invoked to 
intercede for his relief. The mob assembled, and went 
in pilgrimage to the tomb of St. Rosalia, on Mount 
Pelegrino ; but notwithstanding all this, the Prince died, 
when a commotion immediately took place, the mob 
breaking open the prisons, and forming a complete 
insurrection. 

On this, the Marquis Foliani, the Viceroy, was forced 
to fly for safety: his property, and that of his adherents, 
was all destroyed, and a new republic was completely 
established, in which all the high offices were given to 
barbers, shoemakers, 8 z c. But, at length, the respect¬ 
able part of the inhabitants, or rather of the commonalty, 
jinding that all property would soon be insecure, seized 
the ringleaders, who were instantly hanged, and many 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 127 

others taken off in secret. Order was thus in some 
degree restored; but it was many months before the 
government recovered its full extent of power, or was 
able securely to reassume its functions. 

The Sicilian ladies of high rank are not universally 
handsome; but there are many of them very fascinating 
and amiable in their manners. Most of them can speak 
French; some English; and they are fond of our so¬ 
ciety. Many of them dance extremely well. Our coun¬ 
try-dances have become fashionable: but they have 
many national ones. Waltzes, and a dance called the 
Tarantela, are the most common. They also occa¬ 
sionally dance Greek dances. Princess Paterno waltzed 
particularly well; and Madame Minutelo, by birth a 
Peruvian, a beautiful little woman, equally excelled in 
the Tarantela. There is now none of that formality 
spoken of by early tourists; one of whom mentions an 
anecdote, at an assembly at the Viceroy’s Palace, of two 
girls under eight years of age, heiresses of opulent 
families, and already betrothed, who were permitted to 
make their appearance in the ball-room, decked out in 
the very excess of the then preposterous fashions. 

lie describes their glittering dresses, diminutive size, 
and affected gravity in dancing their minuet, joined to 
the fatherly care which their future husbands anxiously 


128 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


took of them, as reminding him of dolls that are made 
to move round a table by clockwork ; and this no doubt 
must have been ridiculous enough; but such scenes are 
no longer exhibited. 

Ices, and iced lemonade, are the refreshments taken 
after dancing: nor did I ever experience the slightest 
inconvenience from it, though ever so hot: on the con¬ 
trary, there would be no living without them. 

If a man does not allow himself to be prejudiced, and 
will take a little pains, he may here form many ac¬ 
quaintances, and meet with much hospitality. Amongst 
those ranks in life at Palermo who do not bear titles, 
and are therefore thought nothing of, I knew some pri¬ 
vate families rather intimately, and found among them 
a great deal of goodness, much friendship and sincerity, 
and rational conversation ; and as much freedom of in¬ 
tercourse in this class of society with the unmarried 
women as in England. A man ought, however, to know 
something of the customs of the country, otherwise he 
runs a risk of being supposed to intend marriage. In a 
family where I was very intimate, I was remarking to 
the mother what a charming girl one of her daughters 
was. She answered me by saying, “ Siete padrona. 
Signor :” and to my great astonishment the next day a 
common friend was commissioned to ask my intentions. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


129 


Nevertheless, any Englishman who goes to Palermo, and 
does not get acquainted in the middling class of society, 
will lose a very great, pleasure. I met with many amiable, 
lovely women amongst them; and the recollection of 
having possessed their friendship will ever afford me the 
greatest satisfaction. 


Whatever ideas my countrymen may form of Italian 
manners; or however much they may suppose that the 
duties of the married state are unattended to; or what¬ 
ever opinion they may conceive as to the laxity of 
morals ; they will find on their arrival in Sicily how erro¬ 
neously they have judged, and how little the reports of 
individuals, who visit a country without ever forming 
any acquaintance, or intimacy with its inhabitants, can 
be depended on. 

w 

In Sicily, all formality, all ceremony but civility, are *. 
banished in polite society, and married women are 
allowed a great degree of freedom; but an Englishman 
must be a long time at Palermo, he must be gen¬ 
tlemanly in his manners, correct in his conduct, and 
possess the means of rendering himself an agreeable com¬ 
panion, before he will be admitted with freedom or inti¬ 
macy into the houses of the inhabitants. He may in 
common with other foreigners be received at the tables 


130 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

of ministers, may go to Court and know every person ; 
but unless he is amiable, or what is the same thing, rich 
or agreeable, this acquaintance will extend no farther 
than a conversation in a ball-room, or on the Marino: 
nor will their doors ever be opened to admit him into 
the interior of their family circles. 

That the greatest crimes are committed with im¬ 
punity, and that the morals of the people in all classes 
are not attended to, is evident to every person who has 
been resident in the country: but whoever should infer 
from this'that a laxity of morals extends to all persons in 
all ranks of society, would form a very wrong idea of the 
present state of Sicily. I could mention many instances 
of the greatest domestic happiness; but I will content 
myself with giving one example in a nobleman well known 
to many of my countrymen, the Marquis of Spacasorno,. 
eldest son of the Prince of Cassaro, and his wife and 
family; than whom no persons can be happier or more 
attached, or set a better example in their own persons 
of every moral virtue. 

We are apt to believe in our own country that levity 
of manners bespeaks levity of mind: but this not always 
the case abroad. Great latitude of conversation is al¬ 
lowed ; and I have conversed with the most modest 
women on subjects which my own countrywomen would 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


151 


think it an insult to allude to. Yet this means nothing : 
they would be astonished if you in the slightest degree 
presumed upon it. 

A person going to Palermo, expecting to find every 
woman ready to like him, will be most egregiously mis¬ 
taken. It is probable he may reside there more than 
a year, and never during that period meet with a woman 
of rank who will express the slightest regard for him. 
A Sicilian lady, like all others, requires great attention, 
undivided regard, and delicacy of sentiment (I speak 
of the amiable part of the sex) : and of these I may say 
that no women in the world are more capable of ge¬ 
nerous and sincere attachments, when they meet with men 
capable of estimating their value. 

If we wish to discover the reason why conjugal infide¬ 
lity is so common amongst the higher ranks, it must be 
traced to the bad education of the men, and the early 
age at which the women are married ; frequently only 
fourteen, sometimes sooner. Seldom or ever is there any 
partiality or attachment before marriage; nor indeed is it 
possible for a girl at that age, generally speaking, to 
know what is necessary to her happiness, or what renders 
a man estimable and good. When a woman at this age, 
innocent and good herself, uncontaminated by intercourse 
with the world, and unacquainted with its vices, finds 


132 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

herself married to. a man whose habits are dissipated, 
who is void of delicacy and affection, and who views his 
wife as a woman formed merely to contribute to his plea¬ 
sures, is it to be wondered at, if she becomes either con¬ 
taminated by his example or corrupted by his influence; 
or if, notwithstanding, she should be fortunate enough 
still to retain her own purity of mind, is it not likely she 
will become disgusted at the conduct of her husband, and 
contrast it with that of others ? 

T am convinced, from every observation I have made, 
and from my experience in life, that in most cases the 
faults of women originate in ourselvesand if we would 
but take half the pains to inspire them with virtuous 
principles that we do to effect the contrary, women would 
be what nature intended them to be—the solace and 
comfort of man’s existence. 

In England one great fault is bringing young women 
too soon into public notice, and making them know a 
great deal too much of the world: and this is increased 
by the general system of novel reading ; for though when 
well written these are a most agreeable recreation, yet few 
of them are fitted for young inexperienced minds, and 
should be put into their hands only after the closest in¬ 
spection. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


135 


In Sicily this is exactly reversed: they know nothing 
of the world, and think every person as amiable as them¬ 
selves. What can a girl know at fifteen, who has been edu¬ 
cated in a convent, and whose reading has been restricted 
solely to religious publications, to enable her to form a 
correct judgment of the world she is going to live in ? 
The more innocent, the more amiable they are when they 
leave those sacred walls, the less able they will be to 
avoid those errors which the world will endeavour to 
lead them into. They are taken from school to be 
married, thus exchanging the restrictions of a convent for 

J o O 

the unbounded liberty that is allowed a married woman 
in their country. 

Now, if instead of this they would so far follow our 
example, as to allow their daughters, after their education 
is finished, to see something of the world previous to their 
forming matrimonial engagements, on which the happi¬ 
ness of their future lives depends, and if in forming these 
engagements they would allow them to have a choice of 
their own, I am convinced it would be attended with the 
happiest consequences ; and is now all that is wanted to 
render them every thing that is amiable. 


134 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

FESTIVAL OF SANTA ROSALIA.— ACCOUNT C'F THAT SAINT. 

-DESCRIPTION OF THE FESTIVAL IN HONOUR OF HER.- 

SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CHURCHES AT PALERMO.-RE¬ 
FLECTIONS ON THE MODE OF WORSHIP. -— CONVENTS.- 

MONREALE. 


As I was at Palermo during the celebrated festival of 
San Rosalia, some account of it will probably be expected : 
I will attempt therefore a short description of it; but as 
my notes on this subject only comprise the story of the 
Saint, I trust I shall be excused, should there be any prin¬ 
cipal circumstance omitted. 

The legend relative to her is as follows.—She was 
related to one of their kings, (the daughter of William 
the Good, as it is said) and in the year 1159, at the age of 
fifteen, suddenly disappeared, retiring, as was afterwards 
discovered, to Monte Pelegrino, in prder to spend the re¬ 
mainder of her life in religious solitude; and a period of 
nearly five hundred years elapsed without her ever being 
heard of. In the year 1624, there was a horrible plague at 
Palermo,'which threatened to depopulate that capital. 
A hermit, the story does not say who he was, dreamt 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS* 


135 


one niglit that the Saint’s bones were on the top of 
Monte Pelegrino, and that if they were taken up, and 
carried round the walls of the city in procession, the 
plague would cease. He related this dream, but to no 
purpose; it was not attended to. He still, however, 
continued to dream the same thing ; and at last a pro¬ 
cession did go to the top of the mountain, where she was 
found in a cave ; some say only the bones, others that 
the body was fresh, and looked the same as if she was 
only fifteen, and five hundred years had not elapsed since 
her disappearance : whichever is the fact, certain it is, that 
she was carried in solemn procession round the city walls, 
and the plague did, sometime after, cease. Of course, 
after such a miracle, churches were built to her honour, 
and she was worshipped as a Saint, and a chapel was 
erected on the top of the mountain, on the spot where 
*he was found, and priests appointed to pray there. 

To facilitate the approach to those sacred relics, the 
pious and grateful Palermitans with extraordinary labour 
constructed a road up the face of the mountain, which is 
nearly perpendicular, and consists of a very hard calca¬ 
reous rock. The ascent, however, is still difficult, as the 
steps are bare of soil: in some respects, indeed, it may 
be considered as dangerous, being generally called La 
Scala, the Ladder: yet this operates not as a check to 
the devotion of many individuals who seek the protec- 


136 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

lion and patronage of the Saint in their own private affairs, 
as well as in those of more general import. 

In the vault under the chapel, which had long been 
the resting-place for her bones, an inscription had been 
put up, which differed a little from the monkish legend, 
for it stated her to be the daughter, not of William the 
Good, but of Count Sinibaldus, living at the period when 
the irruptions of the Saracens were so frequent in Sicily, 
when she retired first to a cave on Mount Quisquina, in 
order to preserve her virginity from the brutal attacks of 
.those disciples of Mahomet, and afterwards removed to 
Monte Pelegrino, where she died inviolate. 

Her bones are now annually carried about the city, 
and are kept in a great silver box of very old and curious 
workmanship ; and according to popular belief, she has 
several times, since her first discovery, saved the Sicilians 
from the plague. 

For a considerable period before the celebration of the 
festival it is the subject of general conversation, and 
creates no small degree of interest. 

The preparations for the ceremony take a long time 
to complete. Her triumphal car is made to an 
immense height. It is built on the Marino, where a 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


137 


large space is railed off to prevent persons seeing it 
until finished. Various fireworks are exhibited at different 
parts of the town, but the most magnificent were those 
erected on the Marino, and which covered a large space, 
the scaffolding for them being as high as the houses. 

When every thing is completed, the festival com¬ 
mences, the car being drawm through the principal street 
by a great number of mules richly caparisoned, preceded 
by dragoons with trumpets, &c. On the lower part of 
the machine is an orchestra, whose performers play pieces 
of music whenever the triumphal car stops, which is 
very frequently. Above the orchestra there is a small 
species of temple, in the interior of which are figures of 
different saints, and on the top of all is a large statue 
of San Rosalia. 

Every side of the machine is decorated with orna¬ 
ments, and covered with flowers of all descriptions. 
During this ceremony, which lasts a considerably time, 
owing to the slowness with which the cavalcade is obliged 
to move, the street is crowded with people, and the 
windows, to all of which there are balconies, are filled 
with ladies. At night there is a general illumination, 
than which few things can be more beautiful. The people 
of Palermo do not illuminate in the same manner as in 
England, but by arches running in a straight line on 

T 


138 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

each side of the principal streets from the top to the 
bottom of them. 

It is the fashion to drive out on these occasions ; in 
consequence the streets and Marino are full of carriages ; 
and as the company are obliged to go very slow, they 
have every opportunity of seeing and being seen. 

The amusements vary each day. One night the Flora 
Gardens are illuminated; on another, all the streets; 
and in the day-time there are horse-races. These are 
deserving of notice, as being of a peculiar kind. The 
horses start from the bottom of the principal street, 
close by the Porto Felice, and run up to the Porto 
Nuovo : the distance is a mile, and the street is covered 
with sand for the occasion. The horses have no riders, 
but small bladders fixed on the back, in which are 
inserted sharp points or spikes, which, by the motion 
of the animal, urge him on. They all start at once; 
and what is not a little extraordinary, the people, with 
which the street is crowded, never attempt to fall back, 
or make an opening for them to pass, till they are almost 
touched by them ; and yet accidents, though they some¬ 
times happen, are not common. Government once pro¬ 
posed to prevent this, by placing cords on each side of 
the street, so as to confine the people within certain 
bounds; but they broke down this barrier, and consi- 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 139 

dered it such an infringement of their favourite amuse¬ 
ment, that it has not again been attempted. 

The prizes they run for are very small, generally 
consisting of from ten to fifteen ounces in dollars fastened 
to boards ; and the horse that wins is led in procession 
with the prize before him. At the celebration when I 
was present the Prince Paterno, who possessed an old 
English racer, started him, and he always won easy. 

The illumination of the Gardens was particularly 
beautiful; but I was much surprised to find scarcely a 
person there, all preferring parading up and down the 
streets. The fireworks were upon a larger scale, and of 
a different kind, to any I have ever seen elsewhere. 
Those on the Marino continued nearly half an hour, and 
were certainly beautiful; but I confess I am unable to 
describe what they were meant to represent. There were 
fireworks in several other places, particularly opposite 
to the Palace, but I think those on the Marino were the 
best. 

What struck me as most worthy of admiration, during 
the continuance of this festival, was the illumination of 
the Madre Chiesa, which is the cathedral-church of 
Palermo, situated on the right side of the Cassero, in 
going to the Porto Nuovo. It is a most magnificent 


140 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


building, and a stranger will find it deserving of many 
visits. The columns of this church are of the finest 
oriental marble. There are various chapels dedicated to 
different saints, the marble and workmanship of which 
are most beautiful. It is here that the box containing 
the bones of St. Rosalia is deposited, they having been re¬ 
moved from their former shrine on Monte Pelegrino. It 
is considered by the lower classes as a certain remedy for 
all evils to touch this box; and when it is carried in pro¬ 
cession the last day, immense crowds may be seen 
endeavouring; to «;et near it. To return to the illumi- 
nation : The whole dome of the church, which is very 
large and of beautiful architecture, is covered with innu¬ 
merable wax tapers, so as to form one blaze of light. A 
person who lias not seen this, or one of a similar descrip¬ 
tion, can have no idea of the effect produced. All the 
lower parts of the church also, and every chapel, are su¬ 
perbly illuminated: the pillars are covered from top to 
bottom, so as to resemble columns of fire: and however 
anxious I may be to give an idea of it to the mind of my 
reader, I find it impossible ; 1 can only recommend him 
to take the first opportunity of seeing it. No expence, 
no pains are spared to render it most striking: and 1 
have been told by persons who have seen various things 
of the same kind, that there is nothing that can be com¬ 
pared to it. 










141 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

1 he last ceremony is a gr^nd procession, in which the 
silver box containing the remains of St. Rosalia is carried 
by the principal citizens, who consider it as the greatest 
honour. This ceremony is accompanied by several 
machines representing temples, 8zc. in the interior of 
which are placed saints of every description, dressed in 
the most superb manner. 

1 bus ends this grand festival. The expence is de¬ 
frayed by government, and costs, I understand, about 
eight thousand ounces. The approach of it produces 
general joy and happiness: and the people are so attached 
to the memory of this saint, that it is supposed any at¬ 
tempt to suppress the commemoration would actually be 
attended with the most serious consequences. It is a 
strong proof of superstition ; but it is the business of the 
Roman Catholic religion to encourage this in the lower 
classes, and will therefore, most probably, remain always 
the same. The priests are the only people who know 
better: they can gain information; and it is for their 
interest not to give it to the populace. 

The churches in Palermo are so numerous, that to 
describe all would require a volume. The greatest number 
of them are superbly decorated with silver ornaments, 
enriched with precious gems, and in many parts coated 
with the finest marbles. Some of the most ancient ones 


142 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


are in the Saracenic style of architecture, and some in 
the florid Gothic, loaded with all the extravagancies 
of monkish decoration; and however rich they appear 
in the inside, it must be confessed that some of them are 
but in barbarous magnificence. 

Such has been the profusion of more modern orna¬ 
ments, that the ancient style of architecture in the inte¬ 
rior is completely hidden ; the walls being literally lined 
with yellow and red marbles, on which are fixed large 
figures in basso-relievo, of angels, saints, beasts, and 
flowers, generally executed in bright red marble, which 
colour harmonizes but indifferently with the other parts; 
indeed, in many places presents a very harsh contrast, 
the very reverse of elegance, and which has not unaptly 
been compared to the effect of cut paper on a painted 
board. 

The Chiesa di Pallazzo is very curious and ancient: it 
is wholly encrusted with Mosaic-work. 

The church belonging to the Jesuits is most superb, 
and requires several days inspection to see all its beauties. 
It is encrusted all over with the most precious materials; 
*md there is not a part of it that does not deserve ad¬ 
miration. This latter church, whilst in the possession 
of the Order, was one of the most perfect in Palermo. 


3ICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


143 


It still possesses many beauties ; particularly a cupola, 
the inside of which has been painted by native masters, 
selected for their talent in that elegant art. In this, 
however, the colouring is most to be admired; for even 
those who pretend not to connoisseurship, must observe 
that the perspective in many points is quite erroneous, 
whilst the attitudes of the figures have a degree of 
stiffness which seems like affectation. 

Some other paintings have been considered as of great 
merit, but they are not now in good preservation ; some 
in particular, where there is so much light and so little 
shade that the effect is almost destroyed; and though 
they are in general without what connoisseurs designate 
as expressive, yet there is a softness in the outline and 
design, which only leaves room to regret that the painter* 
Zioppo da Gingi, did not possess a little more science 
in addition to his taste. 

But the most worthy of notice to the antiquary is 
the Cathedral; a complete specimen of the Gothic style, 
having been founded and mostly built in 1185, by the 
Archbishop Walter. 

It is however considered, in its most ancient parts, as 
more remarkable for the antiquity than the elegance 
of its Gothic architecture, which so early as the twelfth 


144 , 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


century was far from possessing that richness of deco¬ 
ration, that light elegance of outline, as well as orna¬ 
mental delicacy, for which those buildings of a later 
period, particularly in England, have been and are so 
highly distinguished. 

The whole of the interior as already noticed is richly 
ornamented, and the attention is particularly caught by an 
arch in the shape of an horseshoe, at one end of the choir* 
covered with arabesque ornaments and statues, from the 
chisel of Gagini, who is esteemed the most exquisite of 
the sculptors of the Sicilian school: yet the effect of this 
extreme elegance is rather hurt than assisted by the sin¬ 
gularity of the surrounding ornaments. 

The attention of the stranger is particularly directed 
to the tombs of the ancient sovereigns of Sicily, under 
the eastern arch of the choir. Of these, four are of the 

finest porphyry, of a rich and brilliant red ; and three of 

* 

these are cut out of one block of marble, evidently in 
the antique Roman style, being compared to the tomb 
of Agrippa, long the admiration of ail scientific tourists 
to the capital of Italy, once of the world, where it was 
first discovered in the Pantheon. 

Whoever visits these sepulchral memorials must at the 
first glance be convinced of their extreme elegance, and 




SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 145 

struck with the rich beauty of their materials : but much 
difference of opinion has arisen respecting their being real 
antiques, or only copies. It has been urged that as the 
ashes of Agrippa were sacrilegiously scattered by the 
Pope Corsini, in order to make room for his own, so 
these Sicilian monarchs of the Norman race may have 
usurped in death the place of repose of former heroes: but 
it is, perhaps, a more plausible conjecture that the frequent 
intercourse between the Holy Land and Sicily, in the 
time of the Crusades, may have given those later princes 
frequent opportunities of procuring these immense masses 
of porphyry from Egypt and the East; and that the same 
barbarous sculptors of their day may have imitated the 
Roman model: and this is the more strengthened by the 
general opinion that the bad taste of some of the orna¬ 
mental parts bespeaks them not to be of the w orkmanship 
of classic times. 

Without, however, pursuing this discussion any farther, 
as my object is to picture what Sicily is, not what it was, 
I shall only add that these tombs are each covered with 
an ornamented canopy of the same materials, supported 
by pillars of a fanciful proportion and form; and on each 
of these are exhibited the name and heraldic bearings of 
their present occupants. 

The first Norman Conqueror of Sicily, the gallant and 


u 


146 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

heroic Earl Roger, whose name struck terror into the 
hearts of the Saracens, and other enemies of the Christian 
faith, is buried at the foot of the altar, near which is a 
tabernacle of lapis lazuli, supposed to be one of the 
finest collections in existence of that rich material. 

Though not professing any skill in architecture, I 
cannot omit noticing the curious effect of the pillars 
already mentioned, when stripped of the ornaments used at 
the festival of San Rosalia, as each consists of four short 
columns, placed so as to support an arch of gigantic extent, 
over which there is a lofty superstructure that has under¬ 
gone some great alterations of late years, during a repair. 
This w^s executed so as still to preserve the original pil¬ 
lars, which are of granite, and considered of very high value. 

There are also great numbers of convents, which are 
worthy notice, either for their architecture or paintings. 
There is a most extraordinary method of burying at the 
Convent of the Capuchins. The whole of the ground 
underneath it is subterraneous, and divided into nume¬ 
rous galleries, in which are niches for the bodies, where 
they stand upright; and the earth, it is said, has some 
. peculiar property of preserving them. This vault, thus 
prepared as a receptacle for the departed, is formed, 
properly speaking, of four galleries, all of a considerable 
breadth, and not less than forty feet long. These are 


I 

SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 147 

illuminated in some measure by the light of day, which 
enters through windows at the end of each gallery, the 
niches in which the bodies are placed being at the sides. 

Most of these melancholy memorials are set up¬ 
right : their heads, arms, and feet, are without clothing, 
but their bodies are covered with garments of coarse 

O 

woollen cloth. 

Previous to their being arranged in this order, and to 
prepare them for preservation by means of the natural 
qualities of the vault itself, they undergo a tedious 
process, being broiled, as it is said, for the space of six or 
seven months over a slow heat, so that all the fat and hu¬ 
mours of the bodies are gradually consumed or evaporated, 
without entirely destroying the form of the corpse, or 
even the texture of the skin, which resembles common 
leather of a light pale colour, being in an entire state; 
nay, though the body itself is often contorted in various 
contracted shapes, yet the countenances in many instances 
preserve in some degree their original character, and, it 
is said, even their expression. They are then placed 
here, when they become quite dried up. A visit to this 
place is a kind of memento mori that cannot fail of 
producing some effect, and inducing us to reflect on the 
folly of our vanities, and of our present pursuits, which 
are at last to end in such a manner. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 




148 

The church at Monrea-le was equal in magnificence to 
any in Sicily ; I say was, as I have lately been informed 
it has been burnt clown since my return to England : it 
is the seat of an archbishopric. 

Monreale is about three miles from Palermo, and is 
situated on the side of an immense mountain : it is one of 
the most beautiful rides round the capital. On each side 
of the road are several very fine buildings. The Prince 
Trabiea has a very fine estate on the right of the road, 
with an excellent house noon it, the whole after the 
English fashion. To reach Monreale, the tourist must 
ascend a very high hill, from which he has, without 
exception, the most beautiful view I ever saw. It com¬ 
prises the whole of Palermo, and the territories on each 
side of it, called the Bagaria and II Colle, with the sea 
forming the back ground. This view cannot, I think, 
easily be exceeded in beauty and diversity of scenery. 
On the left is a precipice: on the right an enormous 
mountain, wholly incapable of cultivation, composed 
of rock thrown on rock. Below is the capital, sur¬ 
rounded by the most luxuriant productions of art and 
nature, with the sea at a distance covered with vessels, 
thus presenting to the eye at one view the most wild and 
the most cultivated scenery. 

In short, the whole of this excursion is a line of 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 149 

beauties, for an avenue of majestic trees leads from the 
ver^ gates of Palermo across the fertile plain, until 
the traveller begins to ascend the hills by a road ex¬ 
tremely convenient and well made: it may indeed even 
be called magnificent, and for it the Sicilians are in¬ 
debted to the munificent liberality of Archbishop Testa. 

Though its ascent is winding and facile, yet being on 
the acclivity of the hills, it has been found necessary to 
support it in many places by breast-works, and even by 
buttresses of considerable strength. Security, however, 
has not been the only object, for ornament has also been 
attended to, there being urns and fountains, with inscrip¬ 
tions in many places, elegantly embosomed in clumps of 
flowering shrubs. 

The sombre appearance of the immense masses of rock 
on the right is much enlivened by a delightful rivulet, 
which gushes from its bosom in a rapid and copious 
stream ; an effect evidently much heightened by art, as 
some very large fragments of rock, which confine the 
water at its first discharge until it is in sufficient quan¬ 
tity to dash over these rugged masses of dark stone, have 
every appearance of having been placed here by human 
taste and ingenuity. 


After dashing from rock to rock, and almost stunning 


150 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


the ear by its noise, it falls into a bason of considera¬ 
ble extent, fringed all round with the beautiful flowers 
and broad green leaves of the water lily, and some flags, 
amongst which are said to be many specimens of the 
Lotus, or Egyptian Flag. After traversing this delight¬ 
ful route, the tourist, at length, arrives at the gate of 
Monreale, which terminates this interesting approach ; 
where, however, the ideas raised by his expecting fancy 
are not absolutely realized into certainty. 

Indeed, in regard to this town, or archiepiscopal city, 
I cannot speak highly in favour either of its entrance, or 
of its streets, as it is built on a very ancient plan, having 
been first founded by William the Second in 1174, in 
consequence of a Benedictine convent of great reputed 
sanctity existing then on the spot. 

It stands on the very summit of a hill, and is com¬ 
pletely surrounded by mountains of the loftiest altitude, 
except on its northern face. 

Here indeed the tourist thinks not of the uncouth and 
sometimes squalid misery by which he is environed, but 
feels his whole attention occupied by the enchanting 
prospect before him, directing his almost boundless view 
oyer romantic and extensive hanging woods of olive and 
orange trees, which cover the dells and small plains. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


151 


nay, the rocks in many places, until lie fixes them on 
Palermo, and the ocean, whilst his whole soul is wrapped 
up in admiration of the noble and heart-expanding 
scenery. 

» 

The town itself is small, and possesses few good 
buildings; but the very ancient cathedral repaid me 
for the disappointment. It was then full of monuments 
of the most beautiful materials, in which reposed the 
ashes of many of their kings ; and the whole church 
was covered with the most costly Mosaic, One could 
not view it without thinking of the labour and expence 
it must have cost. This church was held in high regard 
and estimation by the Sicilians, and was much resorted 
to, and if it is burnt down so as to be quite destroyed, 
will be not a little regretted by them, and, indeed, by 
tourists in general, as being a curious specimen of the 
Gothic style of architecture. 

One of the tombs already mentioned was that of 
William the Bad, whose son and successor, lying at his 
feet, deserved a better name, and was designated .as 
William the Good, father of the popular Saint of 
Palermo, St. Rosalia. 

« 

A monument of porphyry, of the same kind, and of 
the same workmanship as those in the Cathedral of Pa- 


152 


SfClLY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


lermo, contains the remains of the former sovereign; and 
here also was a coffin, said to enclose the bowels of that 
romantic but unfortunate French monarch, Lewis the IX. 
who, in his attack upon the Saracens in Tunis, in the 
year 1270, died in his camp of the plague, but whose 
memory was so much revered by the church, that scarcely 
thirty years afterwards he was canonized, and became a 
Saint of the Romish ritual* 

This conflagration must also have destroyed a picture 
extremely famous, not only for its execution, but also for 
its sanctity. This was a representation of the martyrdom 
of St. Placidus ; a piece remarkably well sketched, and 
possessing a strong and natural tone of colouring, yet 
censured as inaccurate in its design, though still con¬ 
sidered as a chef d’ceuvre of Monrealesi, who has been 
designated as the Raphael of Sicily. 

To return to Palermo, I must observe that there are 
numerous other religious edifices equally worthy of notice: 
many of them possess very fine paintings, and the archi¬ 
tecture of almost all is beautiful: some are very ancient, 
and have inscriptions in different parts of them which 
would interest an antiquarian. I do not indeed know 
any thing that affords more pleasure than entering a 
church at Palermo : on the hottest day they are delight¬ 
fully cool; and as it is the custom in all Catholic countries 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


153 


to have the churches open at day-light,'and not shut till 
dark ; by these means they are always perfectly well aired, 
and they arc likewise kept very clean. 

A contemplative mind on entering one of their large 
churches, where silence is only interrupted by a few 
priests walking up and down, or a sob at intervals from 
some distant confessional, is inevitably led to the most 
serious reflections. 

Our public places of worship are, in general, so damp, 
so dark, so dismal, and so gloomy, as to deter many 
people from going to church : this is often the reason why 
so many dissent from the established religion, and, indeed, 
this gloominess, and the little attention paid to the interior 
of our religious edifices, have the worst effect on the 
mind. In Sicily, and in all countries where the Catholic 
religion is established, every part of the church inspires 
pleasing as well as solemn ideas : let the stranger turn his 
eye which way he will ; let him enter at what hour he 
pleases, whether at the time of public prayer or not, no 
person takes any notice of him ; he may retire into any 
corner, and pray undisturbed, and may stay as short or as 
long a time as he thinks proper. As far as this goes, no 
fault can be found. I have given the pleasing side of their 
religion ; I have therefore the liberty of censuring it. 


x 


154 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

The population of Palermo does not exceed two 
hundred thousand souls; for these there are more than 
three hundred churches, convents, and chapels, a number - 
infinitely greater than is necessary. The priests exceed 
fifteen thousand, one half of whom have no means of 
living but what they derive from the charity and super¬ 
stition of their penitents. What a large proportion of 
the wealth and produce of the country must go through 
the hands of these men, to enable them to live in a state 
of useless and continued idleness! Indeed, it was the 
opinion of many whom I conversed with, who were in 
their ideas rigidly Catholic, that one-fourth part of the 
number of priests now in Palermo would be more than 
sufficient to fulfil every duty connected with their mode 
of worship. 

Although highly attached to my own religion, yet as a 
traveller I could not help admiring some of the Catholic 

'v 

ceremonies, particularly that of the elevation of the Host; 
and, however much men may differ in speculative opi¬ 
nions, I am convinced no person, really religious, could 
see high and low, rich and poor, forgetting all distinction, 
kneeling on the ground, even in the streets, with unco¬ 
vered heads, adoring the great Author of our existence, 
without feeling an inclination, however strongly he might 
think it right to repress it, to kneel and pray with them 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


155 


also. I am inclined to think that I am not singular in 
this sentiment; it is ever the proof of a well-regulated 
mind to pay respect to established customs, particularly 
in matters of religion ; and nothing can be more contrary 
to reason, than for a stranger in a foreign country to 
reprobate and find fault with every custom, merely 
because it is contrary to his own. 


156 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER IX. 


CONVENT OF SAN MARTINO.-DESCRIPTION OF IT.—REFLEC¬ 
TIONS, POLITICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.-THE CARNIVAL.- 

ACCOUNT OF THE AMUSEMENTS.—REMARKS ON THE POLI¬ 
TICAL CHANGES THAT HAVE LATELY TAKEN PLACE.— 

ENVIRONS OF PALERMO.— LA BAGARIA.- IL COLLE. - 

MONTE PF.LEGRINO. — GREEK COLONY.—REMARKS ON THE 
POLICE. 


About seven miles from Palermo is situated the 

Convent of San Martino, an immense and magnificent 

* 

building, placed on a lofty eminence with a northern 
aspect : but it struck me as being infinitely too superb 
a residence for men who profess to have given up the 
world ; fit for a monarch, but not for an Anchorite. 

The situation is perfectly solitary, no houses near, 
being surrounded on every side by very high mountains, 

the extreme elegance of the edifice forming a wonderful 

\ 

contrast with the wildness of the scenery, where there is 
little or no cultivation, and scarcely a tree to be seen. 

No woman is ever permitted to enter its walls; but I 
believe the Queen is an exception to this regulation. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 157 

Every inhabitant of it must be a nobleman, or, more 
properly speaking, the sons of noblemen, who at its first 
foundation were the only persons admitted either into 
the brotherhood, or even permitted to take up a resi¬ 
dence here. Its young inmates were sent here for the 
purpose of education, and by the rules of the order, 
their term was to extend to the period of seven years, 
at the end of which they were obliged either to embrace 
a monastic life, or still to dedicate themselves to religion 
by assuming the cross, and becoming Knights of Malta, 
when the vows of celibacy, chastity, and mortification, 
were equally taken, and about as much attended to. 
Formerly the Convent was very rich, but its revenues 
are now much decreased, being barely able to support the 
expence of the establishment. It was a long time before 
we could get admittance, and we were at last obliged 
to go round to the back entrance. Here we were received 
by priests, who are appointed for this purpose ; and our 
horses put into the stables. To describe the building and 
all its beauties with precision would require a greater 
memory than I possess : I regret I did not take notes 
on the spot, as it contained much that was worthy of 
recollection. 

On first entering the magnificent hall we were much 
struck with its elegance, being a noble and lofty room, 
its roof resting on superb pillars of Sicilian marble. 


158 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

On our right hand was a noble staircase of the same 
rich materials, forming a double ascent of magnificent 
elevation. Its walls are elegantly ornamented with fresco 
paintings, and it leads to the apartments of the Prior. 

The superior of the convent received us with much 
civility'': he was a very well informed man, by no means 
a bigot; at least, he did not appear so from his conver¬ 
sation. His apartments consisted of two rooms; and 
though the weather was beginning to be cold, there was 
no fire. In the room where he sat was a small sofa; in 
other respects the furniture was very plain, nothing more 
than was absolutely necessary. The walls were bare; 
with a few pictures and some books. He understood and 
had studied our language. His favourite author was 
Milton. 

Immense galleries, leading to the various apartments, 
all round the building, and run in every direction to 
a great extent: it would require a long time to be ac¬ 
quainted with all their intricacies. The most beautiful 
paintings hang on each side of these walls, and at the end 
of one of them the stranger is struck by the appearance 
of an elegant fountain embosomed in laurels, and pro¬ 
ducing a most pleasing impression. The library is a very 
fine room, ornamented with columns of the Corinthian 
order formed of highly polished walnut-tree wood, and 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 159 

filled with rare and valuable works. A month’s residence 
would not be sufficient to inspect all of them. There is 
a gallery round the room to enable persons to reach the 
books on the upper shelves. There are some very ancient 
and scarce editions of the Bible, and it is particularly 
rich in Latin and Greek manuscripts. They have a 
Cicero, which they said was written by himself: for the 
truth of this I will not vouch; but it was beautifully 
written, and if what they said was true, it was most 
certainly an invaluable curiosity. Every thing is arranged 
and kept in the nicest order. From the library we w r ere 
conducted to see the collection of medals, which are kept in 
their treasury amongst various other curiosities, formerly 
lodged in a small apartment called the Museum. This 
collection is very good, but placed in no order, not even 
classed. It contains, among other things, numerous 
specimens of Saracenic armour, some relics of Grecian 
earthenware, a few Gothic pictures, and a variety of Sici¬ 
lian coins of considerable antiquity. 

% 

In one part of this convent the young nobility are still 
educated, and at a certain age they either enter the 
convent or the world, the original rules being now in some 
measure relaxed. When we returned from visiting this 
part of the building, we were taken up the great stair¬ 
case, than which nothing can be more beautiful. It is 
made, as I have before observed, of the most superb 


160 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


marble ; for about twenty steps, the ascent is a straight 
line, when it branches off to the right and left. * Each 
step is formed of one piece of marble, and is a great 
width. Arrived at the top, we proceeded to the rooms 
more immediately appropriated to the paintings. All 
the galleries on this side are full of them, and they 
are almost all originals by the first masters. I am only 
sorry that my recollection does not enable me to give a 
description of them; but there are few collections that 
contain finer, particularly one in the Refectory, said to be 
an original of the famous Paul Veronese. With great pro¬ 
priety, this order seems to have attended to the collec¬ 
tion and preservation of the specimens of their own native 
masters, particularly a few by Zioppo di Gangi, a painter, 
whose works are not much known among connoisseurs, 
and also a few very elegant productions of the pencil of 
Morrealese, called by some the “ Sicilian Raphael.” 
Here also is a very extensive and tasteful assemblage of 
ancient vases. 


Last of all we visited the church. It is extremely 
beautiful, but has never been entirely finished : it was 
meant to have been wholly encrusted with the most pre¬ 
cious marbles. One chapel on the left of the organ is 
finished in this manner ; but I suppose the immense 
expence, and a difficulty in obtaining a sufficient quantity 
of materials, are the causes of its being left undone. This 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 161 

* 

church possesses one of the finest organs in Europe: 

» 

except in Catania, there is none in Sicily that can be 
compared to it. It has every possible stop, and only 
requires one person to play on it; who can either play 
so as to resemble a full band, one instrument, or as 
many as he may think proper. 

t 

The expensive style of this immense edifice may be 
estimated from the fact, that upwards of twenty years 
ago the rebuilding had actually cost one hundred and 
fifty-nine thousand crowns. 

Having now seen all that was worthy our notice, we 
returned to the apartments of the Superior, where we 
found refreshments, and some very good wine. After 
some little time passed in conversation on various sub¬ 
jects we took our leave, and returned much gratified to 
Palermo. It was fully my intention to have obtained 
permission to reside at the convent for some days ; but a 
variety of unforeseen events prevented my doing so. 
This will always be a matter of regret to me, should I 
never have an opportunity of again visiting it. There is 
nothing particularly striking in the ride from this place 
to Palermo : at the same time, it offers many fine points 
of view, and the road is tolerably good. 


v 


l6S SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

* 

At the time I saw this convent there was little or 
no probability of any interference on the part of our 
government with the Sicilian ; and it was the opinion of 
every Englishman at that time that our situation in the 
country was by no means secure ; and I believe many of 
the English merchants were seriously alarmed. With 
these impressions, in common with others, I could not 
help thinking with regret of the moment when we might 
be driven out of Sicily, and the French in possession of it; 
being well aware that the first thing they would have done 
would have been to have stripped the magnificent Convent 
of San Martino of every fine painting, and all its valuable 
library, and sent the spoils to Paris. Now, I am happy 
to say, this is not likely to take place. It is, however, 
not a little extraordinary that the Sicilians are not much 
acquainted with this convent; few ever visit it, except 
to see a friend ; and it is the last thing that is mentioned 
to a stranger. Many of the inhabitants had never even 
seen it; so that every thing it contains is useless, except 
to the few individuals who inhabit its walls. This want 
of curiosity in a Sicilian gentleman is, I think, one of 
their great failings. The greatest part of them never go 
live miles from the capital, unless absolutely obliged to 
visit their estates, and these are most commonly left 
wholly to stewards. 

There is now, however, some hope that affairs, private 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 103 

as well as public, will go on better than they have done, 
and that some attention will be paid to the alleviation of 
the miseries of the lower orders. The hereditary Prince, 
in his speech to Parliament some time back, strongly 
advises a reform in government, and recommends the 
English constitution for their model. Every man whose 
heart is sufficiently capacious to rejoice at the happi¬ 
ness of others, will feel glad to know that there is thus a 
probability of one of the finest countries in the world 
enjoying some of the advantages of freedom. 

During my residence at Palermo the Carnival took 
place, and though in some respects disappointed, yet 
still I derived considerable amusement from it. The 
pleasures of the lower classes of people during the time 
it lasts consist chiefly in masking, and thus parading 
the streets, doing nothing, and in a degree of liberty 
which they do not possess at other periods. The pits of 
the theatres are open to them gratis; all the seats are 
taken out, and where the orchestra generally is, are steps 
to the stage, on which are placed guards to prevent any 
person going on it, till the ballet, which is in general 
given by the nobility, is finished. 

This is performed at the Theatre San Carolina; and 
the first that was given was a pantomime. The Royal 
Family were all present. The Prince Catolico was in the 


164 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


character of a shew-man, with a large collection of wild 
beasts. He was carried in a sedan chair, covered with 
superb gilding; on the top of which sat the Count San 
Martino in the character of a wild man: the latter was in¬ 
imitably well-dressed. Very large dogs were covered with 
skins, or painted so as to represent different wild beasts; 
and the ballet was performed by young noblemen, dressed 
in the most superb manner. The Sicilians possess very 
great taste in their mode of dressing. At the conclusion 
of the dance, a bird with some complimentary verses in his 
mouth, was so fastened to a wire as to be drawn up to the 
King’s box; which ended the amusement. The other 
pantomime was performed at the same theatre ; annexed 
is a description of it as printed at Palermo,. 


ERCOLE AGLI ORTI ESPERIDL 
BALLO FANTOMIMA. 

La decoracione figurera una parte degli Orti Esperidi 
sparsa di Alberi di Porno d’oro, I di cui rami intrecciati 
formino un Tempietto, che ricuopra il Simulacro di 
Giove Tonante, dietro del quale sono sparsi gli emblemi 
dell Astronomia. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


165 


Egle, Aretusa, ed Iperitusa, le tre Ninfe Esperidi 
figlie di Atlante Re di quella parte dell’ Africa, che fu 
poi detta Mauritania, destinate da Giovi alia custodia 
delle auree frutta ad Esso date in dono da Gunome, 
adernpiscono le matutineordinarie libazioni alRediNumi. 

Sopragiunge Atlante, invoca anch’ Egli il Dio deli* 
Universo, ed insieme alle Figlie si da alia piu semplice, 
e pura gioga che viene disturbata da un insolito rumore, 
che si sente all’ entrata del Bosco, Corrono sbi^ottite le 
Donzelle ad indigarne la causa, e ritornano annunziando 
l’arrivo d’un messo del Re Busiride d’Egitto, il quale 
chiede parlargli, Atlante s’avvia egli medesima permet- 
tergli l’ingresso, cercano dissuadernelo le Figlie presaghe 
di un prossim disastro, rna Egli riassicurandole, introduce 
il Messo ; il quale accompagnato da diversi Satelliti, 
dichiara alle belle Niufe la fiamma del Re per Esse, 
derivante dalla riputazione di lore saggezza, e belta, e 
l’ordine di doverle condurre alia di lui Reggia, abban- 
donata la religiosa custodia, Inorrdiscono, e le Ninfe, 
ed Atlante, ma vane le preghiere, e non intesele raggioni, 
le Ninfe sono strappate a forza, ed allontanate dal seno 
deH’inerme Genitore, allora quando sopragiunge Ercole 
quivi spedito dal Germano Euristeo, onde coinpiere la 
sua duodecima impresa, quale si e quella di uccidere il 
Drago di Minerva Custode de Pomi, e presentar questi. 


166 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


alio stesso Euristeo, perche gli venga ceduta in fine la 
Corona di Micene die al prezzo di tanti travagli deve 
acquistare. 

Alla vista di Ercole, che porta la Spogiia del Drago 
gia ueciso, si arrestano tutti; Atlante gli narra l’ese- 
crando misfatto, che va a commettersi, e l’Eroe, dopo 
breve pugna, debella i satelliti, e libera le Ninfe. 

Grato, e riconoscente Atlante, Gli accorda il possesso 
di Pomi; Ercole le obliga i Satelliti di Busiride divenuti 
suoi prigionieri a caricarsene, perdonando loro, a condi- 
zione che lo siegnano presso Euristeo gravati del prezioso, 
e sacro Trofeo. 

S’ intreccia una Danza generale, dopo la quale da fine 
all’azione il distacco dalle Esperidi, e da Atlante, che fa 
Ercole, il quale a lui promette di sollevarlo nel faticoso 
incarco, ad Esso affidato, di sostenere il Mondo sul 
suo dorso. 

N O T A. 

A rendere piu vaga piu interessante la scena, a (quanto 
dice la Mitologia, si e ruinito quello, che opina di tal 
racconto lo Istorico Diodoro. 

M 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. lOf 

The Princess Paterno, the Duchess San Giovanni, and 
Madame Minutelo, personated the three daughters of’ 
Attalanta, King of Mauritania. The Prince Catolico 
took this part, and a Neapolitan officer in the Guards, 
called Pignatelli, a remarkably well-made man, undertook 
that of Hercules. This pantomime was extremely well 
executed. Hercules, to shew his strength, threw all the 
noblemen who represented the guards of the King Busiris 
over his shoulders. At the end of the piece all the gen¬ 
tlemen formed a circle, bending down their heads, and 
closing their arms together, so as to form a complete 
platform, on which Hercules leaped ; by which he was 
enabled to reach the Queen’s box; to whom he presented 
a basket containing the golden apples. 

When the pantomime is entirely finished, the stage is 
opened for the admission of every person who chooses : 
and a greater scene of noise and confusion can scarcely 
be conceived. All the people who are in the pit must be 
masked whilst the Royal Family remain in the house. 

The boxes are filled by different parties; in several of 

\ 

which there are suppers. 

One other amusement that took place during the Car¬ 
nival struck me as worthy of observation. It was a sea- 
fight, but not, as may naturally be supposed, on the 
water, but on shore. Two large boats beautifully painted 


168 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


were fixed on carriages drawn by mules, all ornamented 
in the most superb manner. One boat’s crew were 
dressed exactly in the costume of Algerine corsairs; the 
other as English sailors. They first paraded through 
the streets, each party provided with sacks of burnt 
almonds, sugared over: these were thrown at every person 
they met, even into the balconies. After having thus 
paraded about a sufficient time, the battle commenced near 
the Palace, when of course the English were victorious, 
and the show ended by the conquerors again driving 
through the principal streets. 

I have now in a cursory, and I am too sensible in a 
very imperfect manner, described those amusements which 
are in any way different from those in my own country: 
they at least possess the charm of novelty to an English¬ 
man ; indeed, I think a man must be rather fastidious 
who does not enjoy them. Whether it is from the dif¬ 
ference of climate, or habits, or from any other cause, I 
will not assert, but there is certainly a degree of cheer¬ 
fulness and animation in foreign countries, and in none 
more than Sicily, that we are not accustomed to see in 
our own island ; and it is more particularly observable 
on these public occasions. Every body seems to wish not 
merely to look happy, but also to be so. The very 
beggar enjoys himself for the time. In England, a man 
is estimated by the strength of his purse; at least it is a 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 16.9 

strong letter of recommendation. This in some measure 
is the case in all countries, but less so than in our’s. In 
Sicily a man may associate in the first society, and yet have a 
very limited income. It is not easy to do this in England. 

A stranger visiting Palermo will find that there are few 
places where he can pass his time more agreeably. The 
climate is delightful, although it must be confessed that 
at times the scirocco is felt here in almost its native 
violence; for although this wanderer, blowing from the 
fiery desarts of Africa, i» considerably cooled by the 
extent of sea it has to pass over from the coast of Mau¬ 
ritania, and is not severely relaxing on the southern coast 
of Sicily, yet it is supposed to acquire additional heat 
in sweeping over the arid plains in the centre of the 
island, from whence it arrives at Palermo so as to be at 
times most oppressive. Even then, however, it is in 
some degree mitigated by the northerly breeze which 
generally commences at noon from the sea, and checks 
the extreme heat produced by the reflection and rever¬ 
beration of the almost burning torrent amongst the lofty 
hills in the vicinity. 

The country, particularly round Palermo, he will also 
find beautiful, the inhabitants inclined to be hospitable, 
and doing all in their power to render a residence in their 


z 


XJO SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

country agreeable to him, and all the necessaries of life 
reasonable and in abundance. He may live as retired or 
as gay a life as he chooses; no one will interfere with him. 
In giving this account, however, I must be understood 
as it was when I was there, not as it now is. At that 
time there were not more than forty or fifty Englishmen 
at Palermo : now there is a garrison of several thousands, 
and a great number of our countrymen who have gone 
from motives of curiosity or pleasure, many of whom 
are men of veiy large fortunes. The consequence of this 
has been the rendering the place much more expensive, 
and much less agreeable. Most persons go abroad with 
a desire of living with the inhabitants of the country 
where they are going to reside, of becoming acquainted 
with their habits, customs, manners, &c. In short, they 
wish to see something different from their own country ; 
but this cannot now be so practicable as it was two years 
a^o. Every public place must be filled with English¬ 
men ; and however much the Sicilians might wish to be 
civil to a few who were resident in their country, it 
follows as matter of course that they cannot open their 
houses to several hundreds. In addition to this, the 
quantity of money which the English spend wherever 
they go, makes every thing double its former price, and 
must have had the effect of making the generality of the 
Sicilians withdraw themselves from our society. This 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 171 

will oblige them to live more amongst themselves, and I 
understand it is in some degree the case at present. 
House-rent and every part of the expenditure of a family 
is much increased ; still, however, it is cheaper than in 
imgland, so that a great number of English families 
have gone there within the last two years, and still more 
are going. 

Since commencing this chapter it is with the greatest 
pleasure I have learnt that a change has actually taken 
place in the government of Sicily: I shall not, however, 
alter what I have previously said, which was written 
before this change had happened ; it will be seen that 
my ideas of what was necessary to be done are verified 
by the event. 

Monopoly is abolished; the Barons have agreed to re¬ 
linquish their feudal rights ; the freedom of the people is 
to be allowed; trial by jury is ordained, and every indi¬ 
vidual is to have the benefit of justice : in short, this 
change is evidently founded on the principles of our con¬ 
stitution, and if carried into effect, cannot fail of bein^ 
attended with every good. 


This revolution in affairs has been unattended by any 
disturbances: some persons say it was done against the 


172 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

wishes of the court; I do not think so. I have that 
opinion of the Queen which induces me to believe she 
will be the first to rejoice at the welfare of her country ; 
and what makes me think that it is done with her appro¬ 
bation, is, that the propositions for a change in the go¬ 
vernment originated with the Hereditary Prince, and he 
and his mother are strongly attached to each other. In 
the measures that have been taken, the Prince Butiro, 
and the Prince Belmonte, seem to have been the leading 
members. Every Sicilian must rejoice at this prospect 
of returning freedom ; and no small merit seems to be due 
to the Barons in having thus voluntarily given up those 
unlimited powers they have so long possessed, and which 
I much doubt would not easily have been taken from them 
had they refused their consent. 

Should no unforeseen event occur to prevent the in¬ 
tended change being carried into effect, every thing may 
be hoped for from it. Formerly the Sicilian parliament 
met only once in three years ; it is now to meet annually. 
Formerly there was no appeal against oppression or in¬ 
justice, but to the very persons who were the instigators 
or perpetrators of it—and who is there that will condemn 
their own actions ? The consequence was, that there was no 
possibility of obtaining justice. This heaviest of all 
evils is now happily to be done away with, and every 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 173 

person of the lowest condition will now have it in his 
power to gain redress against his oppressor, however rich 
or powerful he may be. 

There is, I think, now little doubt that Sicily will 
become a country of considerable importance, under a 
free and enlightened government; and I am confident that 
its fate must doubly interest every Englishman, when it 
is considered, that notwithstanding our numerous alli¬ 
ances, notwithstanding we have supported our allies at 
an enormous expenditure of money, and what is of still 
greater consequence to us, at the expence of thousands 
on thousands of our bravest countrymen, yet still from 
that line of politics which has ever been pursued by this 
country, that of supporting the government of the country 
in alliance with us, however bad it might be, and though 
the people were groaning under the heaviest despotism, 
Sicily will thus be the first country that has reason to rejoice 
at our alliance ; for without any further interference, than 
our services to the Sicilian government gave us a right 
to, and which the dissatisfied state of the people rendered 
absolutely necessary, we have been the cause of giving 
to the Sicilians a constitution, which will eventually make 
them great, good, and powerful. Great, because freedom 
will teach them to find out the resources and value of the 
country they possess: good, because the first step to 
bein<* so is to have the mind unfettered by the chains .of 


174 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

slavery, which in all countries, and at all periods, 
have ever been productive of the most flagrant crimes: 
and powerful, because every country must be so where 
the inhabitants are actuated by a love of freedom and 
virtue. 

My reader may consider this as an unnecessary digres¬ 
sion, but I do not pretend to give a regular work to the 
public. I had at first intended giving no account of 
Sicily, except relative to its productions, and as it was 
of consequence to this country; but upon more mature 
deliberation, I resolved to add some account of its inha¬ 
bitants, its manners, customs, &c; and as there are so 
many persons who have never been in Sicily, nor ever 
can, I presumed that some remarks on these subjects 
might not be disagreeable. 

To return to Palermo. The country on each side of it 
is beautiful: the road to the Bagaria runs close along the 
sea-shore for a considerable distance, between hedges 
formed of the Indian Fig and Aloe; indeed, the whole 
surrounding space affords much amusement to the bo¬ 
tanist, as even those parts totally uncultivated produce 
great quantities of the Palma Christi, from whence the 
castor oil is drawn, of Palmettos, or Dwarf Palms, to¬ 
gether with Oleander, Asparagus, and other odoriferous 
a nd useful plants in wild profusion. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 175 

The soil itself is, however, in many parts extremely 
rocky, and of a red cast, particularly as the hill rises 
towards La Bagaria, which is almost literally covered 
with the palaces of the nobility. 

This road proceeds as far as Termini, which is about 
thirty miles oft’. Throughout this direction there are 
several palaces belonging to the higher orders of nobility, 
but I confess I do not recollect any tiling sufficiently 
striking to enable me to give a description of them, with 
the exception of one very elegant edifice, not very distant 
from Palermo, and which has not long been built, perhaps 
not more than thirty years. 

Its founder was of the name of Galette, and a prelate 
of considerable eminence in the church. 

It may almost be said to be loaded with ornaments, 
yet these are so light and airy, and in such a chaste 
style, that they appear more elegant than rich and 
laboured. Its lower story is of the rustic order, with 
a handsome arched passage or gateway in the centre, 
and the attention of the stranger is immediately caught 
by two very handsome vases in the antique fashion, 
placed in open niches on each side: over this is a pedi¬ 
ment, whose outline assimilates well with the balustrades 
on each side of it, and which seem to spring most natu- 


176 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

rally from a graceful row of pilasters of the Corinthian 
order that ornament the upper story. 

Palaces in Sicily, as well as all over Italy, are immense 
piles of buildings ; the architecture is generally good, and 
many, both inside and out, are built of the most costly 
materials ; but when this is said, there is little more to add: 
the residence of a rich nobleman is nearly the same in all 
countries ; «till it may be here mentioned that the villas 
of La Bagaria suffer much from the weather, as they are 
built of a coarse porous stone, whose colour is of a dusky 
yellow, called Breccia, I believe, by mineralogists. 
Preceding tourists have noticed that it may almost be 
said, without any deviation from truth, that the houses 
and villas on this hill are formed of shells: the apparent 
paradox being founded on the fact, that the mountains 
in which the quarries are worked have every appearance 
of having been once submarine; the whole of their sub¬ 
stance consisting of masses of sea-shells in a state of con¬ 
solidation, and united with stony concretions, though the 
latter bear a very small proportion to the whole; and 
the consequence is that the wind and rain make repeated 
assaults upon the buildings formed of these materials, 
destroying much of the beauty and workmanship of the 
ornamental architecture. 


The views in this direction are beautiful, and to those 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. If7 

'who can derive pleasure from the beauties of nature, will 
afford much gratification, as most of the villas are situate 
on the very summit of the hill, and thus command a 
superb prospect of both the Bays of Palermo and Ter¬ 
mini. 

Il proof were wanting of the value of Sicily as a pro¬ 
ductive country, it would be found in this vicinity; 
and it was at La Bagaria that the sugar-works, re¬ 
corded by a Sicilian writer, Leandro Abbate, once 
existed. Circumstances, indeed, particularly the want 
of capital, and the dearness of labour, have long since 
caused them to be abandoned. 

Some sugar is, however, still made in the island, 
though I have never seen any of it: it is indeed more 
properly to be esteemed -a rarity than actually a part 
of the produce, for the quantity of sugar-canes now 
cultivated in the island is not very great: yet if 
industry was once encouraged, there can be no doubt 
that Sicily would soon at least supply its own con¬ 
sumption. 

Even now, the few canes I have seen on the eastern 
coast were of a considerable size; and they are in general 
full of juice, though scarcely receiving any cultivation, 
which shews clearly that the climate has sufficient mois- 


a a 


ture and heat for their nourishment and ripening ; and as 
the farmer is without fear of West Indian hurricanes 
to destroy his works, and lay waste his plantations, a more 
extended cultivation might be undertaken with the most 
favourable auspices, and unattended by those evils so 
much deprecated as connected with the African Slave- 
trade. 

Should it therefore be true, as stated, that the aboli¬ 
tion of the Slave-trade, notwithstanding the illicit smug¬ 
gling carried on, has completely put a stop to the forming 
of additional plantations in the West Indies, the future 
demand, under an improved and peaceable state of com¬ 
mercial intercourse throughout Europe, will be more than 
equivalent to the transatlantic supply; interest, therefore, 
as well as philanthropy, will doubtless prompt to the en¬ 
couragement of such a culture in Sicily, which would, of 
course, be under British protection ; would employ British 
capital; and under those circumstances would not inter¬ 
fere with our own colonial interests when the markets 
become thus extended. 

This, however, is a speculation of a date rather distant 
in prospect, although passing events may be considered 
as offering a hope that the intermediate circumstances 
are in a fair train of taking place. But to return to our 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 1?9 

The country on the other side of Palermo, called II 
Colle, though different from that of La Bagaria, is not less 
deserving oi our admiration, though the tourist does not 
see the Mediterranean, as it is hid by Monte Pelegrino. 
On one side of this little tract of country is the above 
mountain, rising abruptly from the sea, not more than 
a mile distant from the gates of the capital, and standing 
isolated from all the surrounding hills. On the other 
side, but considerably further off, are those mountains 
which have been already mentioned as forming the back 
ground of Palermo : it is this road which leads to the 
Favorita; and there are numerous seats of the nobility in 
every direction: the road itself leading to the sea at the 
other extremity of Monte Pelegrino. 

This mountain, which I have so often mentioned, lies 
on the West side of Palermo, consisting of a limestone of 
a most indurated nature, its masses of rock being quite 
destitute of all vegetation, with the exception of some 
small tufts of grass, which spring from the interstices, 
where their slender roots find nourishment and shelter; 
but, except on its summit, it affords no place for a single 
tree, nor even the smallest shrub, presenting thus a scene 
of rude, yet picturesque desolation. In addition to its 
present sanctity, from having been the retreat and burying 
place of the so much revered Palermitan Saint, it is not 
unknown in ancient history, but is mentioned as early as 


180 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


the first Punic war, when all Sicily was overrun by the 
Roman invaders, notwithstanding the abilities and 
prowess of the Carthaginian generals : yet so strong was 
Pelegrino, according to the then system of warfare, 
that the famous Hamilcar Barcas took post here, and 
added considerable fortifications to its natural strength* 
so that he was not only enabled to keep up his com¬ 
munication with the sea, and, of course, with his own 
country, but actually withstood all the efforts of the 
Romans for a space of five years. 

The approach to its summit, as I have before noticed, 
is even at present very steep and difficult, though it leads, 
to the grotto of the Saint. This road is said to have been 
made by order of the Senate of Palermo, who, as a means 
of defraying its expence, imposed a tax on all kinds of 
butcher’s meat, which fully answered their purpose. 

The view from the top is uncommonly fine: on a, 
clear day a good eye can discern the Lipari Islands very 
plainly ; jEtna may also be seen from thence. The height 
of this mountain is so great, that from the top every part 
of Palermo may be distinguished. Indeed, the prospect 
from this hill is by some thought preferable to that from 
Monreale, which I have before described. 

The ascent, at an easy pace, requires a full hour to 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


181 


perform it; but the stranger is not only repaid for his 
trouble by the enchanting prospect, but also by viewing 
the cavern or grotto where the body of the Saint was 
discovered. 

No sooner did this important event take place, than 
religious enthusiasm proceeded to give it every decora¬ 
tion compatible with the situation of the spot, particu¬ 
larly a rich altar, under which was laid a statue of the 
Saint recumbent at full length, and formed of a beautiful 
marble, which was of late years covered with a silver vest 
presented by the present, or rather by the late King of 
Spain. The desire of ornamenting this retired spot was 
indeed, in some measure, checked by the nature of the 
place, as it is extremely wet from the number of springs 
that exude on all sides, and in such quantities that 
leaden pipes were fitted to the roof to give a direction 
to the superfluous moisture. Here is also a convent, close 
to which is the portico that covers the entrance of the 
sacred grotto. 

A colony of Greeks reside about thirty miles from 
Palermo, who have retained their dress, habits, and 
customs, unchanged. They never marry but amongst 
themselves, at least so I was informed, and it is most 
probable they do not. The women are in general hand¬ 
some: their dress is uncommon. The men have, in ge- 


182 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


neral, tall commanding figures, with thick dark hair: on 
their heads they wear a small skull-cap, with a silk tassel 
hanging down; a loose jacket, often ornamented with 
gold or silver lace ; and broad striped trowsers, with a 
silk sash tied round their waist; and almost always a 
large rosary complete their costume. 

The women wear their hair very long, confined either 
in a silk ba£ or a silk handkerchief, tied round the 
head ; with large pendent ear-rings of the purest gold, that 
have descended to them from their ancestors; and often 
gold or pearl necklaces, with several rings on their fingers. 
Their features are perfectly Greek, and they are generally 
handsome: they wear short petticoats, and long stays laced 
before: and when full-dressed, have a scarlet coat, made 
almost like regimentals, richly laced with gold, and gold 
epaulets ; it does not come over the bosom, but hangs off 
the shoulders. It is a handsome dress, and when the eye 
is accustomed to it, not unbecoming. 

The contemplation of this interesting colony leads one 
to investigate their origin, which undoubtedly must have 
taken place at the time when various parties of emigrant 
wanderers from the shores of Greece arrived upon the 
coast of this fertile island, and, tempted by the rich luxu¬ 
riance of the soil, and the mildness of the climate, here 
formed their infant settlements; at first leading a pure 




SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


183 


Arcadian life, until industry and arts had enabled them 
to produce a superfluity for exportation ; thus giving 
birth to a commerce which is recorded in ancient history 
to have increased their wealth, and consequently their 
population and power, to an extent much beyond that 
of Sicily^ at the present day ; and proving that my hopes 
and prospects of its future welfare are aided by indubita¬ 
ble facts, and confirmed by past experience. 

It has been supposed that the ancient and aboriginal 
inhabitants, the Siculi, fled on those occasions to the 
mountains ; but if so, there is no trace of them remaining; 
it is therefore more probable that in time they became 
wholly extinct; or perhaps united themselves, and were 
thus so amalgamated with their invaders that their national 
character became lost in consequence of their blood being 
thus blended with that of the new comers. 

Nor was the Grecian genius left by those wanderers 
upon their native shores ; for throughout the whole of 
the Greek settlements in Sicily the arts and sciences 
were cultivated with as much assiduity as in Greece itself, 
nay, their inventions and improvements were in a great 
measure as new and as striking as any that country could 
boast; these, its worthy descendants, vying with their 
compatriots in every excellence, treading in the same 


184 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


paths of freedom, and often surpassing them in bearing 
away the palm of superiority. 

0 

Indeed, many of those who are vulgarly esteemed 
Greek writers were actually the natives of this happy 
climate: it is, however, needless to ransack the schools 
for all their names, those of Theocritus, and of Archi¬ 
medes, of Charondas, of Gorgias, &c. being fully suffi¬ 
cient for our purpose ; and these will also sufficiently shew 
that the mental as well as natural improvement, or rather 
restoration of Sicily, is a hope resting on the most plau¬ 
sible foundation, when liberty such as England possesses, 
and accompanied by security, shall permit the expansion 
of intellect, and nerve the arm of industry. 

The whole appearance of this small colony of people 
is totally different from that of the other inhabitants of 
Sicily ; and it is very extraordinary how they have been 
able thus to retain, for above two thousand years, their 
habits and customs, more particularly when it is considered 
how many revolutions have taken place in Sicily, and 
how often, during this period, it has changed its masters: 
yet these people have not imbibed any foreign customs. 
I got acquainted with several of the women, purposely to 
converse with them. Their common language is Greek, 
whether pure or not I am incompetent to judge ; but 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 135 

most of them speak the Sicilian language : they are not 
so animated in their manners as the Sicilians, but they are 
to the lull as pleasing. There is something inexpressibly 
agreeable in the expression of their countenances. In 
the men there is an appearance of cunning, but marked 
by sense : the women have large full eyes, straight noses, 
line open foreheads, beautiful teeth ; and the face forms 
a complete oval, with uncommonly line hair that grows 
to a great length : such is a Greek woman. 

I cannot leave Palermo without saying something on 
the subject of the Police, and also as to assassinations: that 
the latter are frequent is certain, but not so much so as is 
supposed in this country. Several occurred whilst I was 
at Palermo, but chiefly amongst the lower classes. From 
whatever cause it arises, a Sicilian is undoubtedly re¬ 
vengeful : when once provoked to a certain degree, he will 
attempt to kill his opponent with the first thing in his 
way. I saw several instances of this. One day in parti¬ 
cular, I was going to pay a visit. The street was very 
narrow : I perceived all the houses were shut, and people 
looking out of the balconies, and I had only time to 
put my back against a doorway, before two dragoon 
soldiers passed me without swords, running very fast: 
they had large stones in their hands, which they threw 
at another soldier who pursued them with a drawn sword, 
and who was very near cutting one of them down seveial 

b b 


/ 


186 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


times : luckily for those pursued, they got into a place of 
shelter at the top of the street. I did not hear the reason 
of the quarrel; but the consequences would certainly have 
been fatal if the pursuer had overtaken the others: what 
is most remarkable is, that the houses on these occasions 
are all shut, and every body gets out of the way. In 
England, was such a circumstance to occur, the passers- 
by would endeavour to separate the parties, and prevent 
mischief; but at Palermo I have repeatedly seen similar 
occurrences without any one interfering. 

I was also witness one day to an instance of the strong 
effect of religious prejudices. 

I had been riding on the Marino, and was returning 
home by the Porto Felice to the Piazza de Marino. At a 
corner, on the right hand, where it turns into the square, is 
a church, but of which I do not remember the name. Round 
the steps were a great crowd, and in the street a party of 
dragoons. I rode up, and perceived a man in a naval 
uniform, holding by the iron gates which led into the 
portico of the church. To get up to these gates it is 
necessary to ascend several steps. Here the man stood ; 
no one attempted to seize him. I inquired what was 
the matter, and was informed that government had 
taken up this man; that they were carrying him in a 
sedan-chair to prison; that as he passed this church he 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 1 8J 

contrived to dart out of the front window, and get hold 
of the iron railings that encircle it. This became an 
immediate sanctuary: no one dared to touch him : he 
crept round to the gates I before mentioned, and there 
remained. 

In the interim a party of dragoons were sent for, but 
all to no purpose; and after parading before the church 
a short time, they left him. 

It was at this moment I went past. Seeing that I was 
an Englishman, he let go his hold, and desired to speak 
to me. I rode close to him, when he requested my in¬ 
terference ; but I said, what was true, that I possessed no 
power. Not being a proficient in Italian, and the person 
who spoke to me being much agitated, I did not clearly 
comprehend what he said ; but the purport of it was as 
follows:—That lie had been employed in the English 
service (and certain it is, he wore our naval uniform) ; 
that the Sicilian government suspected him of some mis¬ 
conduct, or had mistaken him for some other person, and 
had thus taken him up with the intention of sending him 
to prison, when he escaped, as I have above related. In 
his manner and appearance he was respectable, and was 
well dressed. I had no means of serving him, nor if I 
had, could I prudently have interfered; but I waited to 
talk to him, because I perceived the crowd began to 


188 


SICILY" ANI) ITS INHABITANTS. 


disperse, and be seemed to fancy conversing with me 
afforded him some protection. 

Another person now joined him, dressed in the same 
manner: he appeared his friend. They remained at the 
church till every person was gone, when they walked 
away together. I never saw or heard more of them. 
This is a strong proof of the respect paid to religion. 
How far it is, or is not right, that an edifice solely 
dedicated to religious purposes should be a sanctuary for 
crime, I will leave to wiser heads to decide. 

If a person walks late at night in the streets of Pa¬ 
lermo it is adviseable he should be armed, and even then 
he is not perfectly secure : the best method is to take a 
servant with a torch : there is then no danger. 

Before I left Palermo the Police was considerably im^ 
proved : the Prince Carigni, who was a long time in 
England, was Captain of the City, a situation of great 
consequence and importance. He took great pains to 
render the streets safe at night; indeed, he was indefatiga¬ 
ble in doing so : though of such high rank, either himself, 
or one ot his two brothers, went round, with the patroles 
every night. When I first arrived at Palermo I rarely 
saw a patrole ; latterly I never returned home, however 
late, without meeting them. 

o 


i 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 18f) 

Having mentioned the Prince, I must be permitted to 
add that he is much attached to the English, and that 
both himself and the Princess do every thing in their 
power to render Palermo agreeable to a stranger. 


190 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


CHAPTER X. 


A SHORT EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR OF SICILY AS FAR 
AS CALTANIZETTA.—AUTHOR’S RETURN TO PALERMO.— DE¬ 
PARTURE FROM THENCE FOR MESSINA.-OBSERVATIONS ON 

THE ROUTE.— TERMINI. — CEFALU.—BROLO. — MILAZZO, &C. 
—MESSINA, AND ACCOUNT OF THAT CITY. — CATANIA, 

AND ROUTE TO IT.—MOUNT AETNA.-ROUTE TO SYRACUSE.— 

DESCRIPTION OF THAT CITY. — CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 


Some time previous to leaving Palermo for the eastern 
parts of Sicily I made a short excursion into the interior, 
with the original intention of going that way to Catania 
and Messina, but which I afterwards relinquished in con¬ 
sequence of the time of the year being unfavourable, and 
because one of the gentlemen of our party was obliged to 
return to Palermo at a stated period. 


It was very early in the morning of the twenty-second of 
December when we left Palermo, but not such a December 
as our’s : it was as mild as spring: every part of the 
country was covered with the most luxuriant green, and 
the weather was particularly fine even for Sicily. For 
the first seven miles the road lies alon<£ the sea-shore ^ 
and on every side the country is well cultivated. As we 






* 


4 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


391 


proceeded we began to ascend immense mountains, where 
nature assumed a wilder appearance; but there were still 
to be seen in the valleys some beautiful spots of ground. 
To those who are fond of bold scenery, the views in this 
direction will be particularly attractive. We passed 
through Abbate, a place famous for good wine: a few 
miles further we came to a considerable town belonging 
to the Prince Catolico, where the King has a castle, 
which was garrisoned by a few soldiers : this was about 
twelve miles from Palermo. We breakfasted at a small 
solitary locanda, about eight miles further, and arrived 
at Palombo, a small village belonging to the Prince Lar- 
darea, about seven o’clock in the evening. The road 
the whole of this day’s journey was very good, and the 
country in many places offered the most romantic, but 
uncultivated scenery : we saw very few persons on the 
road, and the country appeared very thinly inhabited, 
except near the small towns. We met some large droves 
of mules, laden with merchandize, provisions, and money, 
going to the capital. 

'We had letters to a steward of the Prince, who resided 
at his house at Palombo ; but I will not say much for the 
fare we met with. It was with some difficulty we were 
received: three bedsteads, with a mattrass each, was all 
we could obtain. The place itself was only an assem¬ 
blage of huts: the house where the steward lived was a 


192 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


palace compared with the others ; but it was surrounded 
with mud, had no garden, and indeed no recoinmenda- 
tion whatever. Over the village hung an immense rock, 
that seemed to threaten destruction to the inhabitants 
every instant. We did not regret leaving this place. At 
a very early hour we got to Valla-Lunga, about eighteen 
miles : the road still good: it is a small town surrounded 
by a tolerably well-cultivated country. This day’s journey 
was rather barren ot views: we saw little appearance of 
population, and still less of cultivation, which is more to 
be regretted, as the land on each side appeared excellent. 
There was no inn at Valla Lunga, but we obtained decent 
accommodation at the house of a private individual, who. 
was in the habit of receiving strangers. The next day v r e 
proceeded to Caltanizetta, a distance of twenty-four 
miles: it belongs to the Prince Paterno, and gives a title 
to his eldest son. To this place there was no road what¬ 
ever, merely tracks across the mountains, which, in fact, 
were hardly passable, as the mules sunk to their shoulders 
every step they took. Nothing can be more wild than 
this part of the country. 

Caltanizetta is a well-built town, and is of consi¬ 
derable extent. We had a letter from the Prince San 
Ilataldo to the Lieutenant-Colonel of his Regiment, 
who was quartered here. The Prince’s residence is 
about five miles off. I am truly sorry I cannot re- 




SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 193 

collect the name of his Lieutenant-Colonel, as our 
party owed many obligations to him for his attention 
and civility. Caltanizetta does not contain much that 
is worthy of notice: there are a few good houses, and 
some handsome churches, and the environs are pictur¬ 
esque ; but there was an appearance of poverty amongst 
the higher classes. Many excellent private buildings 
were falling to the ground for want of repair; and 
although the annual receipts of the Prince Paterno from 
this place, merely for house-rent, is said to be thirty 
thousand dollars, there is no good road in any direc¬ 
tion : one had been begun towards Palermo, but discon¬ 
tinued. It is evident, that until communications are 
made from all the towns in the interior of Sicily, the 
greater part of the country must remain uncultivated. 
In travelling through Sicily the tourist seldom perceives 
any single habitations, nor gentlemen’s seats, as in other 
countries. It is only near towns and villages where there 
is any appearance of the surrounding country being in¬ 
habited, and even then only just in the vicinity *. occa¬ 
sionally we passed some farm-houses, but it was almost 
always within sight of a village. If the Sicilian nobility, 
instead of residing in the capital, and there spending all 
their property, would pass some part of the year on their 
estates, the country would soon assume a very different 
appearance ; but at present there is scarcely an indivi¬ 
dual of rank who resides on his estate, or who spends any 


c c 


194 


Sicily and its inhabitants^ 


part of his property in its improvement; whilst the tenants 
are left to the exactions* injustice, and ill-treatment of a 
steward. 

Oiie of our party proceeded on to Messina, whilst we 
returned to Palermo. Caltanizetta is rather better than 
eighty miles from that capital ; and in this little excursion 
into the interior, what most struck me was the poverty of 
the peasants, and the extreme richness of the soil, not- 
withstanding it is almost wholly left to nature. Though 
this was not the time of year to see the country to ad¬ 
vantage, yet it may not be improper to observe, that the 
corn that grows in Sicily is of a particularly fine quality,, 
and keeps for a long time; but the price is high, an evil 
which is caused by the laws relative to grain, which it 
has already been remarked are of the most oppressive 
nature ; there is however every reason to hope that the 
changes which are about to take place in the Sicilian 
government will have the most happy effect, and that 
instead of being almost a desart, Sicily will once again 
become, what she is so capable of being—the granary of 
Europe. 

In the remarks which I have thus thrown together, I 
am aware that I have not taken a very extensive notice of 
the many specimens of arts, nor given a description of 
the numerous antiquities which are so abundant in Sicily, 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 19^ 

though some of them I have slightly noticed. This 
country lias been the scene of many great events, and 
it is so intimately connected with the Roman history, 
that that circumstance alone is sufficient to interest the 
traveller; but I have two reasons for not attempting a 
detailed description of its ruins or its pictures. 

First, because it is impossible to attempt the one 
without entering more deeply into ancient history than 
the original intention of this work would admit of, and I 
am too doubtful of my own abilities to undertake it; and 
secondly, with respect to paintings, it will readily be ac¬ 
knowledged that the finest, the most animated descrip¬ 
tion of them, must ever fall short of the impression made 
on the person who has seen them ; and as there is hardly a 
painting of any consequence in Europe that has not already 
been described, I shall content myself by saying, that 
those who are amateurs of the fine arts will find much to 
repay them in a trip to Sicily. 

About the middle of March, 1810, I determined to 
return to England, and as I had not seen the other 
end of Sicily, I resolved to go there, and from thence 
to Malta. I hired a boat to coast it to Messina, 
which is by far the pleasantest mode of conveyance. 
There was a good awning, under which I spread my 
mattrass. The boat’s crew consisted of ten men, the 


196 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

master, and a boy ; with myself and servant. It is neces¬ 
sary, on this route, for a traveller to take his own provi¬ 
sions, though we landed every morning to breakfast near 
some house. My servant used to make a fire, and warm 
my chocolate ; and whilst he was doing this I generally 
bathed, and then found myself as much refreshed as if I 
had been in bed all night. After breakfast we proceeded 
on our way, either rowing or sailing, but always keeping 
close in-shore ; and when dinner-time came, landed under 
the rocks, or wherever there was shade. In this manner 
I passed some of the pleasantest days of my life ; indeed, 
all persons who are fond of their own reflections, and 
who can relish the most beautiful scenery, which is always 
changing, will find much pleasure in a similar tour. The 
third day of this delightful route we had a very fine view 
of Mount JEtna, though more than fifty miles from it. 

We saw several towns, at some of which I landed. I 
shall not, however, attempt elaborate descriptions of 
them. I believe there are few persons who are more 
capable of deriving pleasure from travelling than myself; 
but, I confess, I cannot write volumes to make people 
think as I do, although I shall endeavour slightly to note 
my feelings as we passed along. 

Some distance from Palermo, after passing the charm¬ 
ing scenery of La Bagaria, we came near to Monte Gerbino, 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 197 

a lofty cape, whose outline is extremely picturesque, 
though, on a near approach, its total want of verdure 
presents rather a scene of desolation than of beauty. 

It still retains, in common conversation, its Saracenic 
name of Zaffarana, by which name the excellent wine of 
its district is generally known ; for this it has, indeed, so 
long been famous, that it is supposed its other appellation 
of Gerbino is derived from an Arabic word, signifying 
a cask. 

In this vicinity the sea also is as productive as the 
land, here being a very extensive tunny fishery, which 
gives employment in the season to a number of boats: 
this fishery is carried on by means of nets, into which the 
fish are driven by the fishermen surrounding the shoals 
in their boats, and then terrifying the unhappy animals 
by the noise which they make. 

Close by this spot is the beautiful Hill of Alfano, more 
remarkable on account of the Castle of Solento, which is 
built upon it, and supposed to be on the very spot where 
the ancient city of Solentum, first founded by the Phoe¬ 
nicians, was placed, and which is described by some of 
the earliest historians. 


The maritime district now becomes very mountainous 


198 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

as we approach to Termini, a town situated in the pro¬ 
vince of Val di Mazara : it takes its name from the river, 
at the mouth of which it is built, and that from the 
ancient Thermae, or natural baths in its vicinity. It has 
a castle with a small garrison, and is famous for its hot 
baths. It is to this place that the Queen has lately re¬ 
tired, though it is said she has some intention of going to 
Germany ; but I do not think this likely. 

At present, Termini affords certainly very few' tempta¬ 
tions to residence, beyond its salutary springs, as it is in 
great poverty. I have not, liov T ever, been able to verify 
the fact that it is principally inhabited by shoemakers, as 
has been mentioned by former tourists : nor did I find 
any traces, though the fact is certain, of there having 
been here some years ago a society wdiose object w T as to 
establish a system of robbery and murder, the principals 
of which, it is said, were merchants. This society, how'- 
ever, existed but a short time, as the government soon 
got intelligence of its designs, when most of the members 
were arrested and executed, the others seeking safety in 
voluntary banishment. 

Notwithstanding the want of cultivation in this 
vicinity, the fertility of its soil is fully evinced by the 
luxuriant orange and lemon trees which are to be seen 
m the surrounding gardens ; and though the country 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


199 


consists principally of rocky hills of considerable steep¬ 
ness, yet between their foot and the sea coast there is a 
tract of land which produces corn, wine, and oil, in great 
abundance. 

This place, or its neighbourhood, for antiquaries are 
not agreed on the subject, was the scite of the ancient 
city of Himera, a colony established by the superfluous 
population from the city of Messina. 

It afterwards suffered the horrors of a siege from the 
Carthaginians ; and it is a curious fact, that the war in 
which this took place was one of alliance between that 
warlike and commercial people and the Persian monarch, 
Xerxes, when he proceeded for the conquest of Greece; 
they engaging to take possession of all the Sicilian colo¬ 
nies, whilst lie should overrun the mother country. On 
this occasion, however, the assailants suffered a complete 
defeat from Theron, who was called the tyrant of Agri- 
centum; but who appears, in this instance at least, to 
have been the gallant friend of liberty. Iiamilcar was 
the Carthaginian general, and Theron dispatched an 
army under the command of his son-in-law, Gelo, who 
gained a most glorious victory on the very day that 
the gallant Leonidas, and his heroic devoted Spartans, 
sealed the cause of freedom in Greece with their lives; 
as if, says the ancient historian, some God had ordained 


£00 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


that the same day should present to that nation the 
most important victory, and the most glorious defeat, 
which their history could ever boast of. 

At a future period, however, Himera was taken and 
destroyed by Hannibal, the city plundered, the temples 
robbed and then burned, and the whole place razed to 
the ground; whilst the women and children were divided 
amongst the Carthaginian soldiery, and the men, to the 
number of three thousand, sacrificed in cold blood. 

Yet so salutary were the medicinal springs in its vici¬ 
nity, that a new city was founded soon after, and called 
“ Therma Himeraea,” from whence is the evident deri¬ 
vation of the modern Termini. 

These springs are very warm ; they may indeed even 
be called hot; being represented in the ancient mytho¬ 
logy as formed for the use of Hercules, after his labours, 
by the nymphs of the place, under the direction of 
Minerva herself. 

Those who have written expressly of Termini, de¬ 
scribe it also as the birth-place of Stesichorus, a poet, 
who was so anxious to preserve a rational spirit of 
union amongst his countrymen, that he wrote the ex¬ 
quisite little fable of the Horse who chose the man for 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


201 


liis friend, in his quarrel with the stag; a fable by no 
means inapplicable to the continental politics of the 
present day. 

Whilst coasting along from Termini towards Cefalu, 
we found the country possessing little interest in its 
landscape, until our near approach towards the latter 
place ; when we passed the mouth of the River Grande, 
which here divides the Val di Mazara from the province 
of Val Demona: but here the hills present a scene of 
cultivation to their very summits, interspersed with 
groves of the olive, and of that species of ash which 
yields the manna, as well as fruit-trees of various kinds. 

The next place of any consequence where I landed 
was Cefalu : it is the see of a bishop, and is in the 
province of Val de Demona. It is situated on a pro¬ 
montory, and is but a small town, formed of several 
dirty streets extremely narrow ; above it there rises a 
a large rocky hill, with a very steep and almost in¬ 
accessible road leading to a castle on its summit, which 
is capable of a long defence, the narrow pass leading to 
it being easily fortified, though at present merely pro¬ 
tected by a wali of some considerable strength. 

The rock on which the castle stands, and at whose 
foot the town is placed, bears such a resemblance to a 

d d 


202 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


human head, as to have induced the ancient Greeks to 
give it that name, whence the modern appellation. At a 
distance, indeed, coming from the westward, it seemed to 
be an island detached from the main. 

Behind it are the lofty mountains of San Calogaro and 
Madonia. The town itself is so ancient as to be described 
by Diodorus, the Sicilian geographer. 

It is not a place of much trade, though the fishery on 
the coast might be rendered very productive, besides the 
many olive trees in its vicinity ; but the inhabitants have 
a very bad character, at least so I was informed, and was 
advised not to walk any great distance from the town. 

The place itself did not interest me much, but the 
country round it was most luxuriant. On the top of a 
small hill I found every species of wild plant, of the finest 
kinds, growing without any sort of cultivation but what 
nature bestowed. 

After leaving Cefalu, we passed the mouth of the river 
Tusa, on whose banks, though at a considerable distance, 
we could discern the small town of Tusa, covered by its 
ancient castle. This is a place of considerable antiquity, 
being founded as far back as four centuries before the 
Christian mra. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


203 


It was then called Alresa, and afterwards, from its con¬ 
venient port, became a favourite resort of the Romans. 

From this spot the mountains come close to the beach, 
hanging over it in many places in inaccessible precipices : 
a little further on, a pleasant green hill presents the palace 
and town of San Stephano to view. This is but a small 
place, and its poverty is so excessive, that all description 
is unnecessary. 

Here the coast makes an extensive bend, with an inlet 
running up to some distance, and leading to the small 
town of Caronia. This was too far distant for me to visit 
it, but it is impossible to pass the surrounding scenery 
without admiration, and its beauty is of such ancient 
date, that it is said the Greeks gave it a name which 
signified the beautiful shore. 

A little further on is San Marco, which has been con¬ 
sidered as the ancient Aluntium, and near it is Santa 
Agatha, from a Saint of very doubtful origin, as this was 
the scite of Agathyrna, a city founded by a son of the God 
iEolus, a fable, no doubt, merely emblematic of its ex¬ 
posed situation. The name of Agatha is therefore evi¬ 
dently derived from the ancient appellation ; to which the 
pious Sicilians, in after ages, have added the mark of 
canonization. .. 


204 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


The coast from hence, after passing the mouth of the 
small river Rosmarino, a name adopted from the pro¬ 
fusion of the Rosemary on its banks, consists generally 
ol picturesque, but uncultivated mountain scenery, 

mV ^ 

covered with a profusion of wild shrubs, principally of 

* 

myrtles and other evergreens. 

On many of the hills small towns may be observed, as 
well as numerous villages on the small spots capable of 
cultivation in the small plains at their bases, presenting 
a scene of industrious population scarcely to be expected 
here. We now passed Cape Orlando, rendered famous 
in chivalrous romance from the name of Orlando, one of 
the most gallant knights of Charlemagne, who, with his 
companion Olivero, performed some of his daring deeds 
in-this vicinity. 

Here a small bight opens into the valley of Brolo, 
formed by a chain of hills, which were called the Moun¬ 
tains of Juno in ancient Grecian lore. It is generally 
believed too, that this is, or may perhaps be, the very 
valley so elegantly described by Diodorus Siculus, who 
represents it as the birth-place of the Shepherd Daphnis, 
a son of Mercury, and his mother a nymph of the place, by 
whose companions the young demi-god was educated. 
Here he kept his flocks, and was depicted by the name of 
Bucolos , or the handsome shepherd ; and here he gave scope 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


205 


to the exercise of his poetic talents, being the inventor of 
that species of poetry called Bucolics , and of that species 
of harmonious composition so well known amongst 
modern performers by the appellation of Siciliano. No 
place, indeed, can be imagined, even when seen at a 
distant glance, more fitted to be the scene of such events. 

For a considerable distance along the coast, the most 
delightful vales open on the passing of each promontory; 
their hills, verdant with groves of oak, and thickets of 
myrtle ; and their bases smiling with plenty, and covered 
with vineyards, and corn-fields enclosed in hedges of 
various fruit-trees. 

On turning round the point of Orlando, a small bay is 
formed by that cape, and the headland of Carava to the 
east, leading into the vale of Brolo, as mentioned above. 
The bay itself opens in a fine curve, whilst the vale forms 
a similar kind of crescent, backed by lofty mountains, 
which seem to preserve the same outline. 

In looking towards this romantic scenery, the eye 
wanders amongst the most distant hills, until almost 
lost amidst their dark purple recesses, or fixes itself on 
some of the intervening vallies, which, in some places, 
overshadowed by the frowning rocks and hills, seem to 
decline into nocturnal darkness. 


206 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


On many of the surrounding hills, small towns, with 
dim discovered spires, may be discerned, whilst the im¬ 
mediate foreground presents a lower range of eminences, 
clothed with the loftiest forest trees, or with vineyards 
and orchards, sinking into the well-cultivated vallies and 
small plains covered with corn-fields,, and affording every 
prospect of fertility. 

In this happy situation the extreme heat is always 
checked by the salubrious sea or mountain breezes, whilst 
a sufficient supply of moisture is afforded by two rivers, 
the San Angelo and another, that skirt each side of the 
vale, which is generally called Piano di Brolo, a name 
cither taken from, or perhaps given to a small castle 
situated in a most romantic position, upon a steep rock 
which overlooks this charming scenery. This castle is 
near the sea, and is the property of the noble family of 
Lungaria ; and its immediate vicinity presents a display 
of numerous poplars of a very extraordinary size and 
beauty. The eastern side of this Bay, called Carava, is 
extremely mountainous, and though steep, nay, apparently 
inaccessible in most places, yet bears evident signs of 
the cultivation of the vine, whilst its vallies are fruitful 
in corn. 

Before passing its extreme point, which consists of a 
lofty precipitous promontory, boldly facing the ever- 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 207 

beating surge, we could perceive a long range of rocks, 
on the summit of which appears a lofty tower, whose 
erection, the people in the vicinity seem, by its name, 
which is Torre di Diavoli, to attribute to an agent 
who has credit for many such works; and they doubtless 
supposed that no other person would have fixed his 
habitation on such a spot. 

We may safely, however, consider it as the work of 
some less potent being, as it is also called Gastello di 
Liao-i. 

o 

After rounding Cape Carava, the River Oliveri 
empties itself into the sea in the winter; and on the 
western bank is a lofty hill, on which stands the town 
of Tripi; little larger, indeed, than a village, but orna¬ 
mented with a castle apparently of some extent, and of 
considerable antiquity, no doubt, for here it is said once 
stood the Grecian settlement of Abacoeon. 

So partial, indeed, were that people to this vicinity, 
that they actually gave the name of Helicon to this 
little River of Oliveri, which is merely formed by the 
winter torrents. 

In fact, there is scarcely a valley or headland that does 
not recall some tale of ancient lore, and in this immediate 


208 


SICTLY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


vicinity the Mountain of Tindaro, in particular, makes 
a most conspicuous appearance. Close to the sea side 
stands, on a small eminence, the Monastery of Santa 
Maria de Tindaro; and immediately in its neighbour¬ 
hood, though I did not observe any traces of ruins, was 
the scite of a Grecian settlement as far back as the time 
of Dyonisius, the tyrant of Syracuse, said to have been 
founded by the people of Messenia in Greece, on lands 
bestowed by that Prince. 

The name of Tyndaris they are considered as having 
adopted from Tyndarus, King of Sparta, so well known 
by every school-boy, as the husband of Leda, and reputed 
father not only of Helen and Clytemnestra, but also of 
* Castor and Pollux, agreeable to the old story of Jupiter 
and his Queen. 

From hence, after viewing the most delightful and 
picturesque scenery, we approached Milazzo. This place 
is very strongly fortified, the citadel being of recent erec¬ 
tion, and, at present, garrisoned by the British. It is 
about thirty miles from Messina, and is placed upon a 
small cape or headland, which being nearly an island,, 
presents a good situation for defence, according either 
to the ancient or modern system of warfare. Of course, 
its properties did not escape the Grecian emigrants in 
earlier times, a colony of whom, from the country of the 




8ICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 209 

Messenii, settled here, and gave it the name of My las. 
It could, at any time, have been made an island ; for the 
isthmus which connects it with the main land is so narrow, 
and rises so little above the level of the Mediterranean, 
that it might be cut through with little difficulty. 

The town itself presents some handsome specimens 
both of religious and domestic architecture: and the 
country in its vicinity is extremely delightful from the 
united charms of sea and land ; for the hills, which come 
down almost to the water’s edge, are generally pic¬ 
turesque, and the ideas of distance are strongly excited 
in the mind by the purple tints of the summit of iEtna 
itself, seen at times boldly crowning the outline of the 
romantic steeps. 

After passing this place, we were challenged, during 
the night, by English sentinels, who are placed along the 
coast the whole way to Messina. This is necessary, not 
merely from the vicinity of the coast of Calabria, where 
the French are, but also because of the privateers, which 
on this part of the coast are very numerous. 

No prospect can be more striking than the view of 
Messina from the sea. 


Its almost circular port, which is at least four miles 


210 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

in circuit, lias every appearance of being the crater of 
an ancient volcano, one side of the circle being broken 
in; but the wide extending cape forms a capacious 
curve so as to present in some measure the appearance of 
a sickle, which in the Aboriginal language being Zancle h 
that name was first given to the city erected here. 

The mythological history of the place, indeed, gives 
an origin very different from a volcanic one, for there 
was a tradition, which Diodorus records, that Orion, in 
obedience to the wishes of Zanclus, King of Messina, in 
early times, actually raised the present cape as a dam 
or mole to form the harbour. 

Without attending, however, to those fables, the most 
careless spectator cannot fail being struck with the appear¬ 
ance of lofty, and of rugged mountains, which rise almost 
immediately from the beach: so that Messina is in gene¬ 
ral situated upon high ground, forming a noble sweep on 
the swelling eminences, and rising in pleasing gradation 
so as to present almost every public edifice in the best 
point of view ; its masses of elegant white architecture, 
glowing in the sunbeam, and finely contrasting with the 
deep green of the immense forests which clothe the back¬ 
ground, whilst the lower grounds on each side exhibit 
every symptom of extraordinary fertility. A circumstance 
which, instead of the shape of the port, has been sup- 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 211 

posed to have caused the ancient allusion to the sickle in 
its name. 

On our arrival at Messina we met with some little 
detention at the Custom-House. It being very early in 
the morning, no one was up. Had I not been an English¬ 
man I should have had to wait three hours. I confess I 
was not sorry to find myself at a comfortable inn, scarcely 
having pulled off my cloaths for some days. 

The manners, habits, customs, &c. of Messina, are, of 
course, similar to Palermo ; the only difference is, that 
at the latter place they are much gayer; and Palermo 
possesses one great advantage over Messina, that of 
having good roads in the vicinity, whereas at Messina, 
hills surround it in every direction, and these, except the 
road to Catania, are all very bad. 

The modern city is built on the strait of Messina, in the 
province of Val di Demona: it is the ancient capital of 
Sicily, is now the see of an archbishop, and there can 
be no doubt that it was a town in the time of the Siculi, 
or most ancient inhabitants of the island ; though the 
Greek historian, Thucydides, observes that its first 
Grecian occupants were pirates who lived on the Italian 
shore of Campania, principally in the city of Cumae, 


212 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

and derived their origin from emigrant colonists from 
Chalcis in the Euboean state. 

Perhaps of these ancient settlers there are no descend¬ 
ants here at present, for in the troubled state of those 

times, the Cumagans were conquered and driven away 

% 

by a colony direct from Greece, or more properly 
speaking, from Asia, consisting of the Samians and 
other inhabitants of Ionia, who left their native homes 
to escape from the tyranny of the Persian government. 

This vicinity seems, indeed, at that era to have been 
the refuge of the oppressed ; for soon after, a colony 
settled at, or near to Messina, from the country of the 
Messenii, when their leader, Anaxileus, bestowed on it the 
name of his native place, and that of Zancle became lost 
in the revolutions of ages. 

Its situation, so convenient to commerce, and the fer¬ 
tility of its vicinity, soon rendered it flourishing; but these 
advantages only served to tempt the cupidity, and to 
facilitate the approach of invaders, so that the Cartha¬ 
ginians completely destroyed it during the reign of 
Dyonisius the elder, who afterwards refounded it: but 
the city suffering the most cruel fate from the tyrants 
Hipparchus and Hippo, it was indebted to Timoleon of 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 215 

Corinth for the establishment of its liberty ; a chief, 
whom historians describe as always victorious, and 
always availing himself of his success in favour of 
freedom. 

It has been the fate of Messina also to suffer much 
from the liberties taken by republicans; and it is re¬ 
corded, on authority which cannot be doubted, that 
the people of Mamertum, a city of Campania, who 
were free themselves, having formed a desire to enslave 
it, they actually obtained assistance for this nefarious 
purpose from the free Republic of Rome ; a circum¬ 
stance from whence the first of the Punic wars arose. 

It is unnecessary to follow it through its various 
political changes; but some other historical anecdotes, 
of more recent date, will be found in a future page. 

In some respects Messina is a place of more consequence 
than Palermo, not only from its most excellent harbour, 
but also from its very considerable trade, chiefly con¬ 
sisting in silk, oil, fruit, corn, and wine. 

Its fruit trade, in particular, is capable of being 
much extended, as it possesses some species superior 
to those of other parts of the island, or even of Italy. 


214 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

The citrons are very fine, and one species of a sweet 
flavour, known by the name of Valenziana, perhaps first 
brought from Spain, is often of the size of a small melon; 
whilst another, the Lemonella di Spagna, or small Spanish 
lemon, is much admired for its very odoriferous flavour. 
The silk trade is here carried to a very considerable 
extent: the manufacturers live in the environs of Messina, 
and extend for a considerable way along that part of the 
coast, called the Faro. 

This city suffered most severely from an earth¬ 
quake in the year 1783, the effects of which it has 
not yet recovered. The whole of the Marino was 
destroyed; indeed, the whole of this magnificent city 
must then have presented a most desolate prospect, as 
scarcely a house was left entire; for not only churches 
and palaces, but even the humblest mansions became a 
scene of ruin. 

It is proper to notice, however, that in many parts of 
the city only the upper stories were thrown down, whilst 
the lower ones remaining, afforded a safe shelter to num¬ 
bers towards the close of this awful visitation, who had 
learned experience from the first shocks; for then many 
who remained in the houses, as well as those who flew 
into the streets, being killed by the fall of the buildings. 


SICILY ANI> ITS INHABITANTS*. 


c 215 


the survivors sought and found shelter under the door 
and window frames, their situation thus placing them 
out of the range of the falling materials. 

It has been said that this earthquake produced a ferti¬ 
lizing effect, no less extraordinary than the fertility which 
has often resulted from volcanic devastation ; for both at 
Messina and Scylla, many ladies who had been married 
for a series of years, without children, became the mothers 
of very fine families; nor did a single obstetric accident 
happen to any of the fair sex, from the terror and alarm 
which must naturally have accompanied the horrors of the 
scene. When I was there they were building the Marina 
up again, on the same spot, only throwing the houses a little 
further back so as to widen the road : when finished, both 
it and other parts will be very handsome, particularly as 
they are widening all the streets, though most of the new 
erected houses possess a smaller elevation than their pre¬ 
decessors, the architects having learned wisdom from ex¬ 
perience ; yet still, from their elegance, they may be said 
to resemble palaces. Great attention has also been paid 
to the strength of these modern edifices, being raised on 
arches throughout the whole of the ground floors, whilst 
these vaults, being distinct from the dwellings, are gene¬ 
rally occupied as shops. 

Opposite to this Marino is the Quay, the water being 


216 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


so deep as to enable ships of very large tonnage to 
unload there. 

The situation of Messina, as already slightly no¬ 
ticed, can scarcely be equalled for beauty of scenery. 
The city itself is built in the form of an amphitheatre, 
rising gradually on the hills that surround it. On the 
left lies the Faro, opposite the coast of Calabria, and 
extending from it are seen the high promontories 
which are passed in going to Naples. The distance 
across the streights which divide Calabria and Sicilv 
is not more than three miles in the narrowest part, 
and seven in the broadest; and vessels must also pass 
through these streights in going to Malta. So much 
has been said and sung of these streights, and of 
Scylla and Charybdis, that nothing is left for a modern 
tourist to notice. The modern Charybdis, for some 
suppose the ancient one to have been nearer to Cape 
Peloro, is not very far distant from the Light-house, 
and is nothing more than a small rippling stream, no 
longeT possessing any of those terrifying attributes be¬ 
stowed on it by the poets, when the streight, or faro, 
was perhaps much narrower. 

At present, so little danger is there of falling into it, 
that the guides for the curiosities of the place and neigh¬ 
bourhood, have some difficulty to find it, the rippling 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 217 

being seldom of any great magnitude, except when the 
wind and the current are adverse to each other. 

When I was at Messina the French were encamped on 
the opposite coast at Reggio: with a glass I could dis¬ 
tinguish them perfectly. 

i 

The whole coast, as far to the north as Milazzo, a 
distance ot thirty miles, is now guarded by our troops : 
sentinels and gun-boats are posted the whole way. This 
is necessary, on account of the near vicinity of the enemy, 
in addition to the defences of Milazzo itself, which, as 
already noticed, is strongly fortified by nature and art, 
and has a very considerable garrison. 

This city is not capable of defending itself against an 
enemy, being commanded by the surrounding country ; 
but the citadel, which was built when the Spaniards 
possessed Sicily, is a strong place, defended by a nume¬ 
rous artillery, and does not require a larger garrison than 
two thousand five hundred men. 

Messina cannot now boast of so many fine buildings 
as Palermo, nor does it offer the same attractions to a 
stranger, except as to scenery; still, however, there is 
much worthy of notice. It contains some very handsome 
churches, mostly rebuilt since the earthquake, with the 

f f 


218 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

exception of the Cathedral, whose principal front remains 
entire. This is one of the most beautiful specimens of 
architecture in the island, and is singular both in form 
and materials. The portico and portal forming the 
entrance at the grand front are executed in elegant white 
marble, and are embellished with numerous statues: there 
is something, however, rather bizarre in some of the or¬ 
naments ; and the red ground of some of the walls looks 
^■ery heavy, though adorned with Mosaic-work in various 
compartments. 

As Palermo possesses from Heaven a certain safe¬ 
guard against all misfortune, in the opinion of its pious 
inhabitants, so has Messina been equally favoured in 
obtaining a protecting grace equally valid. This is an 
epistle written to the inhabitants of Messina, many 
centuries ago, by the Virgin Mary, who, understanding 
no language but her own, wrote it in Hebrew, but 
prevailed upon St. Paul to translate it into Greek, not 
choosing to perform that operation herself by means 
of a miracle. 

She thought proper, however, to interfere in a ma- 
raculous manner for its recent preservation, as this 
palladium of happiness and prosperity was saved from 
the destruction of the earthquake, and is now in the 
treasury of the Cathedral, where it is kept with great 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 21£) 

veneration, having saved the church; though it did not 
deign to extend the same favour to the rest of the city. 

After all, this original is only a copy ; for, the one 
written by the Virgin being lost during the Saracenic 
period of Sicilian history, she did not choose to con¬ 
tinue the correspondence, and Messina must have re¬ 
mained deprived of its safeguard, if a lucky fellow, a 
refugee Greek of the name of Christopher Lasceris, 
had not found this copy of it about the middle of the 
fifteenth century. 

He translated it into Latin; but some antiquaries, 
not allowing to the Virgin the gift of prophecy, have 
rudely asked how it came to pass that she should have 
dated her letter in a mode of notation not in use for 
five centuries afterwards? But to the faithful this is 
a trifle, and of no more consequence than the want of 
a post-mark ; of course, the Messinians piously trust 
to it, and consider themselves therefore, not only the 
first people in Sicily, but actually as more favoured 
by Heaven than all other parts of the earth put 
together. 

Messina is a sea-port: its trade is very considerable, 
and the consequent influx of foreigners, added to the 
presence of the English army, gives to Messina a greater 


2£0 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

appearance of business than Palermo ; indeed, since the 
arrival of the English, the place is become greatly 
enriched. The number of inhabitants are supposed to 
amount to twenty-eight thousand. 

Of the manners of those inhabitants I have already 
spoken, and shall therefore here dismiss the subject 
with a short historical anecdote illustrative of the ex¬ 
cellence of the fair natives of this place, at a period not 
very remote. I allude to the dreadful siege which it suf¬ 
fered from Charles of Anjou, soon after the massacre of 
the Sicilian Vespers. 

So much was to be dreaded from the fury of the 
besiegers, stimulated by hopes of plunder, and goaded by 
desire of revenge, that the whole population exerted 
themselves in the defence of their native city; and 
even the priests did not consider themselves as exempt 
either from labour or military duty. But the ladies set 
the most shining example of heroic constancy, equal even 
to that displayed at the memorable sieges of Saragossa, 
in our day. 

This praiseworthy conduct was commenced by the 
noble matrons, who, not only hushed all those delicate 
sentiments which make the sex shrink from deeds of 
blood, but seemed even to have forgotten their constitu- 


221 


t 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

tional weakness, and exposed themselves to fatigue and 
the inclemency of the weather, independent of their per¬ 
sonal exposure to military dangers. 

The stimulus which led to this heroic conduct was 
indeed most powerful. They of all others had every 
thing to dread : their own honour, that of their husbands 
and families, the delicacy of their lovely offspring, all, all 
conspired to prompt them to exertion, in order to assist 
in saving these treasures from the unhallowed excesses of 
a brutal and unlicensed soldiery. 

Like the Spanish females, they assisted in carrying 
arms and ammunition to their brave defenders on the 
ramparts, and even stones and materials to repair the 
damaged defences. In the hour of danger and fatigue, 
they carried to them such refreshments as their city af¬ 
forded ; and when the citizens, worn down with labour, 
were about to surrender, these noble fair ones advanced 
into the front of danger, with their infants at their bosoms, 
or followed by their lovely daughters, and called upon 
fathers, husbands, sons, and brothers, to protect them 
from the desolating assaults of the enemy. 

Such eloquence could not fail of success. The citizens 
persevered in their defence, and repelled the assailants. 


222 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


untill the siege was ’raised by the advance of an army 
under Peter of Arragon. 

From Messina to Catania the country is flatter than 
in most parts of Sicily; I do not mean that it is a plain, 
for, except in the immediate vicinity of Catania and Pa¬ 
lermo, there is no such thing in Sicily; it is only compa¬ 
ratively less mountainous. 

On leaving Messina for the eastern coast, the tourist 
first passes, for a short distance, through a district en¬ 
tirely occupied as gardens, from whence he traverses a 
narrow path overhung with steep romantic masses of dif¬ 
ferent coloured marbles; but this is soon changed for a 
rugged mountainous country, skirting the narrow plain 
by the sea shore, where every advantage has been taken 
of the situation for agricultural purposes, and along which 
his route leads. 

During many a long and weary league towards Taor¬ 
mina, he is obliged to cross numberless torrents, or their 
rough stony beds if the weather is dry, in which the fury 
of the winter streams is strongly pictured. His way, 
however, is enlivened in many places by villages, whose 
houses, being built in a style said to have been frequent 
in the early days of Greece and Rome, that is, in alternate 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


223 


layers, or courses of stone and brick, not only excite 
classical ideas in the mind, but also offer pictures of 
neatness and comfort, which are far from being realized 
on a nearer approach. 

Except in these places, where the towns are built on 
the small plains, the road leads entirely along the ba&e of 
rugged calcareous cliffs. 


On approaching Taormina the country becomes ex¬ 
tremely pleasant, and is in general in high cultivation. 
This is the great silk country ; and though it produces ex¬ 
cellent red wines, and has many olive-trees, yet either it is- 
so unfit for the raising of corn, or the inhabitants chooser- 
to dedicate their labours so much to the silk-worm, that 
they are obliged to seek a supply of food from other 
districts of the island. 

r * ' * . 

/ • 

/ 

The want of arable cultivation is not felt, however, in 
a picturesque point of view, for the varied and ever 
changing scenery has all the charms that the verdant 
tinted foliage of the mulberry and olive-trees can afford ? 
and though the landscape may not be so sublime as in 
other parts of the island, yet I am not disposed to differ 
with preceding tourists, who have declared those hills to 
be the prettiest in Sicily. 


£24 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS* 

But here, indeed, the traveller has no leisure to fix his 
.attention on any thing but the sublimity of iEtna, the 
traces of whose early eruptions he perceives all around. 

My route through this part of the country was too 
rapid to give detailed accounts of each distinct place, 
having merely passed Cape della Scaletta, and had a 
glance of the castle and village, its foot, and of the 
ruinous tower on its summit. 

At Fiumi di Nisi there w r as nothing remarkable; but 
curiosity is strongly excited by the appearance of the 
Castle of Alessio, standing on a lofty rock, and com¬ 
manding the road which ascends up a lofty hill, from 
whose summit is seen the charming valley in which 
Taormina is situated. 

The road down this hill is not only steep, but so very 
rough, as only to be passable by mules; nor does the 
modern town repay the traveller for his labour in de¬ 
scending to it: yet its situation is picturesque, on the 
very edge of a lofty precipice, and apparently threatened 
by overhanging rocks, on which stands the village of 
Mola, in a situation which appears almost inaccessible. 


Below is the village of Giardini, on the shore, now the 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 225 

port of Taormina, but containing nothing to tempt to a 
visit. The antiquary, however, will find much to amuse 
him on the scite of the ancient Tauromenium, where 
there are still vast ruins, part of which is an extensive 
theatre, whose arcades of ancient brick-work, and whose 
walls of pebbles, all once covered with the finest marbles, 
have still withstood the attacks of time. 

To the classical tourist these must afford high satis- 
faction, as they are sufficiently entire to illustrate the 
ancient style of theatric edifices; and so much still 
remains as to support the idea that this was one of the 
finest in the island. 

Round the precincts of these immense masses of ruin, 
are still to be seen the remains of the ancient sepulchres, 
many of which are now converted into modern dwelling- 
houses ; and the whole assimilates well with the sur¬ 
rounding scenery of lofty mountains, capped in clouds, 
chequered by villages, ruins, and castles on every frag¬ 
ment of frowning rock, backed by the forests and snowy 
summit of iEtna, and with the sea expanded at the base. 

Beyond Taormina the road leads past the Tower of 
Scliiso, which is said to stand on the ruins of the ancient 
Naxos, now overwhelmed with lava, which lines one side 
of the bay at the mouth of the River Cantara. 


£26 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

It is a curious fact, as observed by geologists, that 
this river forms the boundary of the volcanic erupted 
matter on the northern extreme; one side of the river 
being formed of lava, whilst the other bank consists of 
marble and other calcareous substances. 

\ 

The road now leads past the foot of iEtna itself, which 
may almost be considered in this part as an extensive 
plain, smiling with fertility, and in high cultivation, ex¬ 
hibiting on all sides vineyards and fields of corn, inter¬ 
spersed with forests of oak, and with numerous groves of 
olives, of the fig, almond, and walnut-tree. 

We now approach to Catania, which is the most 
flourishing town in Sicily, next to Palermo and Mes¬ 
sina. It is built at the mouth of a river, which dis¬ 
charges itself into the Gulf of Catania, and the descent 
to it presents the most delightful prospect, the road 
leading through almost endless groves of olives and other 
trees ; whilst the city itself appears at the commence¬ 
ment of an extensive plain, finely contrasting its rich 
cultivation with the surrounding wild mountain scenery. 

Midst all this beauty, however, there are repeated 
marks of volcanic devastation in the immense masses of 
lava on all sides, which form a melancholy appearance 
amidst the gay verdure of the environs of Catania itself. 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


227 


This place has suffered most severely from earthquakes, 
but notwithstanding it has recovered their effects; nor 
c\p the inhabitants attempt to remove from the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Mount ALtna, although its eruptions have so 
often been fatal to them. The number of inhabitants 
are nearly the same as at Messina, and the city boasts as 
high antiquity ; being founded by the people of Chalcis, 
who fled here on being driven out of Euboea, after which 
it has undergone all the various Roman, Saracenic, and 
Norman revolutions. 

t 

This city contains the only university in the island, 
and it is the scene of education for the gentlemen of the 
long robe, so as to be considered quite as the nursery of 
forensic eloquence. 

After its complete destruction by the last earthquake 
and volcanic eruption, the inhabitants, who had time to 
escape, returned to the scite of their ancient habitations, 
which, however, they did not attempt to rebuild for some 
years, living, at first, in barracks provided for them by 
the government. Of late years, indeed, they have 
set themselves assiduously to work on its restoration, 
but it has been curiously observed, that this ancient 
city is now of more modern date than many of its in¬ 
habitants. 


228 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


Many traces of the Roman city have been discovered 
under the ancient lavas, through the researches of Prince 
Biscaris, whose attempts have been repaid by finding the 
ancient baths, and many figures of stucco and plaister. 
Here are still also some remnants even above the volcanic 
masses: these are part of a theatre and amphitheatre, as 
well as part of a pyramid, and some ancient tombs in the 
garden of the Capuchin Convent. 

The whole of these ruins are rich in marbles, and afford 
much entertainment to the passing stranger; who will 
also be pleased with much of the modern architecture, 
particularly the churches, amongst which the Cathedral 
is extremely large, and no less beautiful, crowned with 
an elegant cupola of large dimensions. 

This place is considered, upon the whole, as one of 
the most agreeable for residence in Sicily. Wine is excel¬ 
lent : the town itself, dean and regular; and the build¬ 
ings handsome, many of them magnificent. The country 
round it, as observed before, is beautiful, and nothing- 
can exceed the scenery of the plain of Catania, bounded 
by Mount iEtna and the sea. 

The Sicilians are much attached to this mountain, 
and with great reason: it produces them every necessary 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 229 

and every luxury of life; and without the inexhaustible 
supply ol snow obtained from its summit, how would the 
Sicilians exist during the heats of summer? 

As I did not myself ascend this mountain, I will give 
the account of a person who did, presenting a rapid 
picture of its beauties ; but referring for more detailed 
accounts to the many writers on this subject. 

The summit of Mount jEtna is throughout the whole 
year covered with snow. The heat in Sicily is never 
greater than in the months of June and July, yet the 
atmosphere on the top of this mountain is even then like 
winter. Immense quantities of snow lay frozen around, 
and on approaching the summit, the ascent is so steep 
that the traveller is obliged to dismount from his mule, 
and get up as well as he can: on getting nearer, a strong 
smell of sulphur is perceived. The opening of the crater 
is very large, and is composed of pieces of lava piled one 
on the other. For some time before the tourist can reach 
the highest part of the mountain, the smoke rises from 
the ground under his feet, and he hears a great noise, re¬ 
sembling distant thunder. 

The view from hence is said to be sublime: the eye 
takes in the whole of Sicily, like a panorama: the 
straits that divide Sicily and Calabria appear like a 


230 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

small stream of water: the islands that surround Sicily 
seem to be at a very small distance, whilst around, on 
every side, is the unlimited prospect of the ocean. 

v 

Leaving Catania for Syracuse, the road leads over the 
before mentioned fertile plain, for a distance of twenty 
miles, after which a lofty hill, covered with olive-trees, 
presents itself. From thence the route lays over an 
extent of country, for a few miles almost covered with 
rocks, but soon giving way to the smiling appearance 
of cultivation, with all its accompaniments of cottages 
and enclosures, surrounded by olive-grounds and fields 
of corn. 

We now approach Augusta, built on, or near, to the 
scite of the ancient Greek city of Megara. The town 
itself stands upon a small peninsula, at the mouth of 
a valley opening to the sea. Some years ago, consider¬ 
able sums of money were expended on its fortifications, 
but to very little purpose, though its citadel is still in 
pretty good preservation. Here are also some extensive 
salt-ponds, which may become valuable, when liberty and 
a good government shall give a stimulus to the industry 
of its inhabitants. 

Proceeding southerly from Augusta, we pass a tract of 
country, for a few miles, which presents a strong contrast 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS; $31 

with the plain on the north side; yet, even this, though 
stony, and at present almost barren, except as pasturage, 
is far from being wholly incapable of improvement. 

We next ascend a rough road cut in the rocks, the 
work of the ancient Greek residents, and still called by 
the name of Scala Gra3ca. This is about four miles 
distant from the ancient city of Syracuse, which is in the 
province of Val di Noto, but is only a ruin of its former 
self. It is unnecessary to remind my reader what it once 
was ; now it has scarcely any trade, and its harbours are 
almost quite empty. This place must have undergone 
some great change, natural as well as political, for the 
sea has evidently made great encroachments, and the 
ruins and foundations of a great part of the ancient city 
are said to be under water. There is much at this place 
w r orthy the attention of a traveller. 

We are told that the Cathedral was once the Temple of 
Minerva. Its pillars, or columns, are certainly many of 
them antique, and of the Doric order, and the cella of 
some ancient edifice is still joined with the walls of the 
modern church, though not in very high preservation; 
and indeed, the church itself has suffered much from dif¬ 
ferent earthquakes. Here is still to be seen that vast ex¬ 
cavation called the Ear of Dyonisius, which seems a na- 


232 


SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


tural production, forming a Gothic arch at the top ; but 
is supposed to have been used as a quarry, before the dis- 
covery of its remarkable power of conveying sounds to 
its roof induced the tyrant to apply it to the purposes of 
a prison. 

At a short distance from the city is a church, partly 
under ground, said to be the oldest in the island ; and 
near this is a convent, whose vaults have the property 
of preserving dead bodies, similar to that in the vicinity 
of Palermo. 

To trace the ruins of the various theatres, and other 
antiquities, would require a residence of some weeks; 
and it "was much beyond the power of a transient visitor 
to examine the limits of the three ancient cities of which 
Syracuse once consisted. 

The country around is extremely fertile, and produces 
no less than twelve different varieties of wine, of which 
the Muscatello is most excellent. Indeed, it is said that 
there are no less than forty varieties in the limits of the 
diocese ; and for honey, the vicinity of Syracuse was 
almost as famous as Hybla. Nay, such was the opinion 
of the ancient mythologists of its fertility, that it was 
here they fabled Pluto to have struck the earth, in order 



SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 


233 


to descend with bis fair prize, Proserpine, to the infernal 
regions; a fable evidently allusive to the happy soil and 
climate. 

> 

From Sicily 1 proceeded to Malta, which I left with 
the first fleet for England. The vessel I had taken my 
passage in, being small and heavily laden, I did not like 
to proceed in her to England. I remained, therefore, for 
some weeks at Gibraltar, when, through the kindness of 
some friends, I obtained a passage home in His Majesty’s 
ship the Hibernia, Captain Dunn, to whose civility, as 
well as to every officer on board the ship, I have the 
greatest obligations ; and I shall always consider the six 
weeks I passed on board the Hibernia as one of the 
happiest periods of my life. 

In this hasty sketch of a visit to Sicily, I am aware of 
the numerous faults that may exist, and of the inadequate 
description of many interesting objects: but I have 
already said, that when in Sicily I did not travel with the 
intention of becoming an author; and domestic occur¬ 
rences, unnecessary to relate, having obliged me to hasten 
my return to England, I have been obliged, in many in¬ 
stances, to depend upon the efforts of memory. Still, 
as to my opinions, public as well as private, I do not 
hesitate to say, that 1 conceive it unnecessary to make the 

h h 


234 SICILY AND ITS INHABITANTS. 

least apology for them. I write as I feel, and as I think; 
and my only hope is—that these feelings, and these 
thoughts, are such as may rather do good than harm, 
should those who have the power of amending the con¬ 
dition of the Sicilians be actuated by sentiments of a 
similar tendency. 


THE END. 


errata. 


Page 55, line 7, read retired for retire. 

64, line 19, read conversaziones for conversationes, and in Ibis 
manner throughout the whole Book. 

130, line 16, read Spacaforno for Syacasorno. 

-ib. line 22, for this not , read this is not. 


B. Clarke, Primer, Well-Street, London. 


.RBFeTO 



















































